Ashwin, first of all it was not determined the cause of the issue. Well, one is not having clear understanding on the malfunctioning how do we consider your method as a quick fix solution?

Also, not many would try to ride the bike with both hi and low beam 'ON'. Only highly literate/knowledgable like you might try out.

ride with hi and low beam at the same time??i wouldn't do so if im asked to ride in hell though! think of oncomers or atleast the zma's poor reflector!!

Anyways, my zma got the stator coil replaced..dont know whether it was done under warranty or stripped from another one.Didn't get the zeroed out bill. My sugesstion to all owners whose zma is still under manufacturer warranty. Do not alter any of the wiring things in the bike for any reason. It would turn out to be a hard thing either to bring back to stock or to explain/compromise the supervisor on what u've done. depends upon the knowledge of the mech or supervisor. I had a very hard time explainig things to thatsup fellow.Atlast he compromised with feww hundreds! though mine was just a small slice of plastic coat on the horn main wire done to feed twin horns. Really hate to ride it with stock electricals..atleast headlight and horn. will be 9amped tomorrow!
Also, front cowl vibrates alot after returning home spending 2 good weeks in service centre..was almost to purchase pulsar's bolt washer kit for 60rs thinking of choosing things from it that would fit in zma's screws..Before doing so just enquired a hardware shop for washers.wow that guy had nylon washers of many manyy sizes..bought 20 for 20rs.voila!! most of them fit in fairing screws and vibes are nill!

This isnt the first time this is happening. Last time was running at around 50kmph with just low beam and my horn went "buk buk". The next day after riding fast for a while everything went back to normal. So I've concluded that riding at higher rpm's is the only way to fix the issue.

Edit.

Here the pocket roads are'nt lighted at all hence the need for both beams being on at the same time, High to see the road ahead and low to make sure there arent any deadly potholes. And added to that a poor eye sight. This method was used by R15 and Fazer people, before stumbling on this, I used to press and hold the pass while riding on similar road conditions, but that considerably reduced my riding capabilities and took more time to respond, guess its cause am concentrating on the pass while riding. So I find sticking the switch in between the best fix for the time being. But when it comes to riding elsewhere I stick to lowbeams, cause the highbeams are useless since the roads far ahead are already illuminated by the street lamps and the only think to look out for are crazy dogs popping out of no where.

Aswin, its not the regular characteristic metalic sound of ZMA. Its something different. I love ZMA, and I have three years of experience with it, and I can recognize Karizma going in traffic without seeing it, just by the sound it makes.

With odo at 51k, and for two years its not under my care, I am certain that something is not right in the engine. Have to find out whats the exact cause; timing chain or valves. I need to find a person who can diagnose and prescribe the right medicine for it. I don't want to reopen the head again and again.

And, the bike behaves very much normal. It can go to 100 kmph without any issues, but with a little more noise. No smoke from the engine, the exhaust canister has a little dust, which is normal.

Yup! Will do that and before that, I need to source the AFR screw first.


If you are doing this for the purpose of a safe ride, you can do, but I guess you are ready to face the consequences on electricals.

For Cone set go for the OE or SKF.
For the rubber parts they are available separately at most Motorcycle spare shops...I had fixed a thinner rubber grommet for the front fairing fixing and find that the fairing vibes have become considerably less....The one on the left is the OE while the right one is what i had used..

I had bought and fixed a 2 Amps 400 Hz (high tune) horn along with the OE horn without relay and it is good.
If you are doubtful of the wiring , take out extra fittings and run, or better still change the wiring kit , if you feel it will help.
Brake pads...RTR pads are good...if you want better still ,go for Ninja 250 front pads..
Rollon Chain and sprocket kit is good and is about 890/- for the set.
There are good Key makers who can make a Good duplicate key for the ZMA...
You can spray paint the mudguards instead of changing it...
Few ZMA owners had issues with cam and rocker wear at even 20~35 k Kms...hence i suggest you check those as you have 51 k Kms on odo.
Apply Brake oil or 2T on the AFR screw, soak for 10~15 minutes and try the screw....if it still fails, then keep a small screw driver (line tester) on the AFR screw and gently tap on it...this will surely loosen the screw.

Replies in bold.

sir, correct me if am wrong, but I remember reading somewhere that even applying a little too much force than necessary can damage the afr screw and can cause the bike to run richer than expected.

Please read my post...first to soak in Brake oil or 2 T for 10 minutes or so ,then try to turn the AFR screw, ...and then I had said use the line tester screwdriver and gently tap on it....I did not ask it to be hammered...there is a difference between the two terms of expression,and the force to be applied..
secondly how will bike run rich if AFR screw is damaged ? it can also be otherwise isn't it ?Please read up on the basics,and analyze ....

Actually it is a practice to slightly tap on the screw to loosen it from ages. Else hoe do mechanics open screw which cannot be opened by anyone. The force of tapping is what differentiates between a good mechanic. The amount of force applied depend on the area of application.
You haven't seen when the HUB pin of old scooters are opened. They are hammered so hard that you will fear they will break. A experienced mechanic knows how to give blows so that it opens without breaking.
In case of jammed screws, the oxide layer between the screw and threads jams the screw. So lightly tapping it will break the oxide layer and free the screw.
Moreover a damaged AFR screw will make the mixture lean but you can always change the AFR screw to new one. Company knows AFR are most changed part in a carburettor and so they are easily available.

I know that, but the case with the AFR screw is different.
Dealing with Deformed Oil Drain Bolts

I dont remember the exact reason but it has something to do with the Tip of the AFR screw getting either depressed, hence there'd be an additional clearance which will result in the AFR being rich than before. This is also the same reason why the Honda manual warns against completely closing the ARF screw. There was also some content regarding the material used in making AFR screw etc, anyways will try to look for the source and post for info's sake.

Don't do it for " info's sake "...but to educate yourself and gain better knowledge..when the AFR screw moves inward it will make the AFR lean...
You are still not clear in understanding this, which is why i asked you to learn the basics of the CV Carb.......

Thanks for the inputs sir. And regarding the key, I lost both the original keys, and the one right now I have is a duplicate key that is bluntly cut. It will not suffice to make a duplicate key based on this one.

And regarding the AFR screw, I am gonna replace it, so I will not worry if it deforms while removing it. But, initially will follow the method with WD40 oil and soaking. If this doesn't work, then other forceful methods will be used and will replace the screw with new one.

Yes, painting the mudguard is a nice option; will look into it. And, is it possible for me to replace it with any other bike's, such as Dazzler? I find the design of it to be outdated in the current scenario.

And as for the wiring kit, there are absolutely no issues as of now. I am running with Bosch 9-amps battery and will give for recharge once. I need to thoroughly check the wiring with an expert.

As for the engine, many doubts have been raised, from timing chain till valves. I need to find out an expert mechanic who can diagnose these parts with precision.

All the cables are recently changed. Also the front fork oil seals as well as oil. The rear shocks set at softest setting, and it is bottoming out easily with good bumps. Need to adjust it.


Thanks for the valuable inputs. Where can I source this Diamond chain and what is the price of it? If its too costly, I will settle for Rollon.

And regarding the cone set, will the splendor's cone set tolerate Karizma's?

Regarding the key, please read above.

And, will open the head and check for the carbon soon. Meanwhile, I will take out the sparkplug and will take picture of it and will post it here.

Replies in bold.
Regarding availability of diamond you have both ware house and plant in Hyderabad. Contact xbhp:-shoeb and he can help you.
However you can get the address here:-
http://www.tidcindia.in/RC_RegionalOffice.html
The parts catalog is:-
http://www.tidcindia.in/pdf/PocketCatalogueNEW.pdf

Hi .
First things first .
You must have either the help of a mech or the ability to do it yourself in order to complete the conversion . If your mech says it can't be done , there must be a reason why he is saying it . In this case I think it might be that he doesn't know how to go about it . First you have to tell him about the things to be done .
Those will be --
1 - Get a 220's 1st oversize piston (1st oversize will have 25 punched on top ). I'm not sure about going for 2nd oversize piston since it might require more and complicated work than I've done .
2 . Re-bore the ZMA cyl to accommodate the piston .
3 . Piston rings to be inserted .
4 . Shaving off a bit of the piston's top is required since the P220 piston is curved . Will tell you details later .
5 . Have to fabricate an item out of brass .It has to be made from a brass rod . So a lathe where the mech has good contact is required . Will give details later .
6 . Have to shave the metal gasket to accommodate the increased piston size .
These are the things I can think of right now . Please contact the mech and ask him whether he can do these things .

While modding my ZMA I told my mech that the risk will be mine . I bought a 2nd hand cylinder and did the mod on it so that if anything goes wrong I could revert to the old status . Luckily I didn't face any problems .

Finally , read all disclaimers printed on all packaged articles and assume all of them are applicable to this mod !!

We can continue this discussion after getting a reply from you .

Good luck in your quest for a 235cc ZMA .

Does the original piston come with some kind of a piston crown coating like ceramic? If it does you will most probably be heading for disaster if you shave the piston crown.