Announcement

**psr** · 07-25-2012, 11:17 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

I am back on my ZMA. You guys need to help me a lot to get it in right shape.

Good to know you got back your old love....I thought you had already got the ZMA into good shape...
Bring in your doubts and observations ,and we will do our best to confuse you..

..

**AmanZ** · 07-25-2012, 11:31 PM

Hey Fellows..
how much does tubeless tyres for karizma COSTS? karizma gives problem of punture every now and then.. heard lot of cases.. will be buying a bike soon.. so want to know the price.. and of which company. ??

**ashwinprakas** · 07-26-2012, 12:30 AM

Originally posted by AmanZ View Post

Hey Fellows..
how much does tubeless tyres for karizma COSTS? karizma gives problem of punture every now and then.. heard lot of cases.. will be buying a bike soon.. so want to know the price.. and of which company. ??

ZMA comes with tube, and a puncture is an extremely rare event, atleast in my case.

**Divya Sharan** · 07-26-2012, 12:41 AM

Originally posted by AmanZ View Post

Hey Fellows..
how much does tubeless tyres for karizma COSTS? karizma gives problem of punture every now and then.. heard lot of cases.. will be buying a bike soon.. so want to know the price.. and of which company. ??

With all respect sir, a TL tire will get punctured as many times as a TL type (in most of the cases).
Moreover, puncture repair shops for a TL type are far less when compared to TT tires. Means, you'll have to carry a puncture repair kit with you.

Still, if you want peace of mind, swap the tires with those of ZMR while making the purchase in exchange for the OEM ones. You should get a discount owing to the exchange.

P.S - Keeping tab of your tire conditions, keeping them clean and a watch on the road conditions shall keep your tire happy without (m)any punctures.

**AmanZ** · 07-26-2012, 10:16 PM

ROFL looking at the smiley .... its so funny...
i agree tubeless tyres will also get punctured but the pain of removing the whole tire during a puncture disappears with tubeless tyres..
which is a convenience.. lets hope i get a karizma very soon ..swaping them with those of zmr one's is a good idea..
thanks for d reply

**acs1207** · 07-27-2012, 01:42 AM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Changed speedo cable today. Was pretty impressed with the SVC this time. Delivered it within 1 hour. And spare was available too. I mean cable.

Here is the part no : 44830KRY960S.
Along with that had to change an o ring on the crankcase on the gear lever side.

Cable costed 76 rs and o ring rs 3.50.
Labour 80 rs

.

The speedo cable you can change on your own with no sweat .

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

I am back on my ZMA. You guys need to help me a lot to get it in right shape.

Anything other than physical activity - you got ittt!!!

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

ZMA Rocks.

Echo the sentiment - it does ROCK !!

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

You or bike?

Anyways, post some picture, your observation and your thoughts too.. so that it helps us to help you better. Again I'm talking about bike here.

ha ha

Originally posted by psr View Post

Good to know you got back your old love....I thought you had already got the ZMA into good shape...
Bring in your doubts and observations ,and we will do our best to confuse you..

..

ha ha ha ha...I'll try to add my bit too ...

Originally posted by AmanZ View Post

Hey Fellows..
how much does tubeless tyres for karizma COSTS? karizma gives problem of punture every now and then.. heard lot of cases.. will be buying a bike soon.. so want to know the price.. and of which company. ??

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

ZMA comes with tube, and a puncture is an extremely rare event, atleast in my case.

@ 6500 kms and not a puncture so far ...

Guys , a member of xbhp got in touch with me regarding an engine re-boring for a P220 piston . I've asked him to bring it to the thread instead of a private discussion . If he does , then I hope you all will give him creative advices . If he doesn't then I'll be conversing with him in private and will be posting the feed backs here .

**capnoty** · 07-27-2012, 09:52 PM

karizma 220 mod

Hi Sir it was me if you could guide me step by step ill be reall glad as my mech says its not possible

**SriramEfunds** · 07-27-2012, 11:25 PM

Need a kind help from fellow Xbhpians here. Can someone post a picture of Karizma 2003/4 model CDI unit which is supposedly Made In Japan? Want to see how it looks and to distinguish.

**ashwinprakas** · 07-27-2012, 11:35 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Need a kind help from fellow Xbhpians here. Can someone post a picture of Karizma 2003/4 model CDI unit which is supposedly Made In Japan? Want to see how it looks and to distinguish.

When posting pic please do take a clear shot of the partnumber engraving cause thats were the only noticeable difference is at.

Sent from my GT-S5360 using Tapatalk 2

**ravi@17bhp** · 07-27-2012, 11:54 PM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

You or bike?

Anyways, post some picture, your observation and your thoughts too.. so that it helps us to help you better. Again I'm talking about bike here.

Lol! It obviously not me, as I said 'it'.

Originally posted by psr View Post

Good to know you got back your old love....I thought you had already got the ZMA into good shape...
Bring in your doubts and observations ,and we will do our best to confuse you..

..

Sir, I brought my bike to okay shape and not good shape. Needs lot of things to do. Will post them soon.

Just today, took the opinion of a supposedly expert mechanic, and he said, the valves are not right and needs replacement. Will explain the story later. And, I am already confused now, and hoping to get confused more.

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

With all respect sir, a TL tire will get punctured as many times as a TL type (in most of the cases).
Moreover, puncture repair shops for a TL type are far less when compared to TT tires. Means, you'll have to carry a puncture repair kit with you.

Still, if you want peace of mind, swap the tires with those of ZMR while making the purchase in exchange for the OEM ones. You should get a discount owing to the exchange.

P.S - Keeping tab of your tire conditions, keeping them clean and a watch on the road conditions shall keep your tire happy without (m)any punctures.

TL tires will give you peace of mind. Its not about how many punctures, but how many times you get stranded on the road due to air loss. a TL tire will not deflate as long as the nail stays in the tire. Very rarely the tire deflates immediately after the puncture. This gives you ample time to go to a puncture shop at your leisure.

I have TL tires on my Dazzler, and I have never hesitated/feared while taking it off the road, and I would think twice if I am with Tubed tires, due to the fear of a flat tire. I have TL puncture kit with me and a foot pump. I myself repaired the only puncture I got for my Dazzler. The tire deflated only after I removed the nail.

I prefer TL tires over TT tires.

**aarunn** · 07-28-2012, 12:16 AM

opened my fuse box today... is everything all right??

**ravi@17bhp** · 07-28-2012, 12:19 AM

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

opened my fuse box today... is everything all right??

Nope, missing two fuses. Get another 15-amp fuse and a 20-amp fuse.

**ravi@17bhp** · 07-28-2012, 12:22 AM

My bike is almost six years old and the odo is at 51,000 kms. I need to do a thorough check of all the things. I am planning to replace the following things:

Tyres (Changed to SS and M45 just two days back).
Cone set
Handle bar (bent with a fall, but mechanic adjusted as of now)
Front cowls vibrating due to falls, need to check if the joints are broken. If broken, needs replacement. Also all the plastic and rubber parts in side the front cowl needs replacement, as they are at the end of the life.
Needs a better horn
Wiring needs to be checked (good with no problems as of now), as I once fitted a relay assembly and the mechanic cut the main wiring at that time.
The rear shocks appear good, but off late I am feeling bottoming out.
Brake pads need replacement
Chain-sprocket needs replacement
Lock-set needs replacement (I have only one duplicate key; original two keys gone, and the cutting of duplicate key is not good)
Rear fendor has turned white with lots of scratches, planning to replace.

And now comes the engine.

Replaced the Tensioner recently. Now my bike is vibration free even after 100 kmph, but there is some kind of knocking in initial gears. If I give bursts of acceleration, there is a metalic sound from engine. I have no clue as to whats exactly wrong. Previously PSR sir suggested me to look at cam chain, guides, rocker arms and cam shaft. Now, today, the mechanic says, the problem is with valves and asked me to replace the valves. My trusted mechanic has been missing since 4 months and I don't have anybody to sit and do the engine work.

Also, the carb needs cleaning and tuning. The AFR screw got struck and it also needs replacement.

Spark plug and air components already changed.

Any suggestions?

**ashwinprakas** · 07-28-2012, 12:56 AM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

but there is some kind of knocking in initial gears. If I give bursts of acceleration, there is a metalic sound from engine. I have no clue as to whats exactly wrong.

Nothing wrong there, at higher rpm's theres a mild metalic thump added to the engine note, its like a metallic pistonning noise. and thats completely normal. Every bike has it, and normally we dont notice it, unless we're particularly fishing for some weird engine sounds.

Also, the carb needs cleaning and tuning. The AFR screw got struck and it also needs replacement.

Take it to a reputed lathe. Arun bro had faced a similar issue and was sorted out by a lathe, he got a replacement AFR screw as well.

Pics courtesy, Arun bro.

**ashwinprakas** · 07-28-2012, 02:25 AM

Guys sorry, forgot to post an observation. This applies for people using the stock 6A battery.

While riding for a while with both high and low beam on at the same time(Switch stuck in mid position.) the horn started going berserk, it'd only honk when it felt like i.e when you press the button nothing happens, after a few secs it honks on its own. So I switched to low beam and downed to 4th gear so that the RPM would stay around 5~6k. After like 10 or 20 secs everything came back to normal, horn was working fine, and after that went back to both high and low being on at the same time and everything worked normally. So I guess this can be considered as a quick fix to people facing issues with the horn or other electricals.

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