. ZMA parts are damn expensive. No idea why and I dont see a reason why.
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I was being told that Honda knows where to chuck the money; for instance, the key set (ignition + fuel tank + side seat lock) costs a whooping 12K+tax (that's close as 14K)Originally posted by krish View PostHonda is so cheap to maintain
. ZMA parts are damn expensive. No idea why and I dont see a reason why.
Most consumables like engine oil, filter, sprocket, brake pads, fairings, fenners, mirrors, sliders are priced affordableSkill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day
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Originally posted by krish View PostWhats the rating of the oil used by the service centres? I thought it was 10W40. If that is the case; would 20W40 grade oil suffice for the bike?Actually if you see the the cd that is given with the owners manual, it recommends 20w40.Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View PostWell winter is coming should I go for 20w40 or stick 15w40 ?Karizma R
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I too was thinking like that and was hesitant to change the oil from that of company recommended 10W30 but if you look at all previous model Karizma s they where putting 20W40, the reason why the company service centers are putting 10W30 has been very well explained by Psr sir and you might have read aswell. Trust me you wont regret if change your oil to Gulf pride or any other good engine oil of 20W40 grade, the engine feels totally submersed in oil kind of feeling after few hundred kms, try it yourself.Originally posted by krish View PostWhats the rating of the oil used by the service centres? I thought it was 10W40. If that is the case; would 20W40 grade oil suffice for the bike?
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700 buck approx I meant the whole one piece assembly (includes front and rear foot peg) as you see in the pic below. If Honda gives this (as seen in pic) for Rs.125, one word Wow! Are you sure if you are comparing the right parts here?Originally posted by aargee View PostI got mine replaced last Monday; Rs 125 for the entire assembly (footpeg, rubber & the clamp inside inclusive of 2 8mm bolts) & that's Honda. Why's it so expensive for ZMA? Any thoughts?
RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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Aaha...in that case ZMA is more than affordable; I'm 200% sure Honda will ensure to see some empty wallet or real nice slides on our CC's for the part you postedOriginally posted by SriramEfunds View PostIf Honda gives this (as seen in pic) for Rs.125, one word Wow! Are you sure if you are comparing the right parts here?
Rs 125 is just for the foot peg; you remember the part that broke don't you? So, only that one costs Rs 125. I bet it would be even less for ZMA & not Rs 700.
To be precise, it's the one encircled in RED that costs Rs 125; the aluminium bottom is Rs 90, most expensive one. No spring, no washer, no bolt, nothing other than the 3 parts I mentioned above put together costs Rs 125.
Last edited by aargee; 11-07-2012, 01:51 PM.Skill is what keeps you on a Motorcycle
Awareness + Skill is what keeps you out of harm's way
ATGATT + Awareness + Skill means you might Live To Ride another day
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That's all my Lord ! I'd rather stop comparing spares of HMC and Honda though they were tagged somewhere in the past, however, makes lot of difference in each and every aspect of spares. Ignition lock set of ZMA I believe is quoted around 1.5k (Aneesh, correct me if I'm wrong). Should I ask why Honda's Ignition set is so expensive? I might buy another used RX100.... LolOriginally posted by aargee View PostAaha...in that case ZMA is more than affordable; I'm 200% sure Honda will ensure to see some empty wallet or real nice slides on our CC's for the part you posted
RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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What is the price of Motul 7100 FS ?Originally posted by SriramEfunds View PostHello,
Had been to Chikmagalur for the Inter-State G2G Meet. ZMA performed top notch. Was able to cruize at 110 without any vibes or wobble due to cross winds. The engine was running with Motul 7100 FS single esther. Would recommend this oil for long tours includes ghat sections..
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Motul 7100 10w40 is priced around 625/- (Sorry, don't have the can with me now).RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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Sriram sir, i would like to add that this was the most common part that broke in old model cbz on the right hand side. One kick without folding and 1300 bucks down the drain.Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post700 buck approx I meant the whole one piece assembly (includes front and rear foot peg) as you see in the pic below. If Honda gives this (as seen in pic) for Rs.125, one word Wow! Are you sure if you are comparing the right parts here?

My friend who has a CBZ old model was pissed up as he didn't buy the self model. It used to break exactly as it broke like yours. One day i suggested him to go to a aluminum welding shop(only one in whole bhubaneswar) and i accompanied him.
He suggested to carve a new broken piece that to rejoin it. So we watched as he carved out a new piece that holds the footrest to the assembly like yours. The work was unbelievable and he carved it out of aluminum. We finally filed it and sanded it with fine sandpaper and re-fit it. It has been two years and no problem whatsoever.The same work shop welds engine crankcase so impeccably that you will fail to know its welded.Usually in scooters(bajaj chetak) before the advent of reed valve in bravo the scooter used something known as petrol seat. It is usually part of crank which stops the flow of mixture into crankcase and on rotating allow flow of mixture. Usually it gets worn and are aluminum welded then finished on lathe.Usually this work needs precision as the crank will move against the petrol seat without letting mixture in but it will not rub. So you can decide how tough the work is.
Usually these small workshop have very skilled workmen but it is normal human tendency to see that anything expensive and looking good to eyes(read stylish and modern) are good.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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Yes, I have also seen 2-3 karizma with ZMR tail section in bhubaneswar.Originally posted by myg124 View PostToday I happened to see a ZMA fitted with the entire rear panel of the ZMR. Ah looked fabulous. Wondering anyone here has done such a mod? If yes then please show some pictures.
According to my knowledge they change it because
1. ZMR tail panels are redesigned and thus doesn't cause the problem of breaking frequently
2. The rear light is LED which conserves battery, looks good and also eliminates the need of checking bulb fuse
3. The Indicators are also with the back light and thus looks good.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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Just another observation.
Guys who're planning on cleaning the carb slide and reusing it!, if you're on the heavier side and have a habit of gunning the throttle, then I'd advice you to either get a new slide, or add 2T to fuel. Cause from my observation, with 2T oil added to fuel(3ml/L) I can gun the throttle with a heavy pillion, without any issues. But without 2T premix I can gun the throttle solo, but when riding with a heavy pillion if I gun the throttle, the slide gets stuck, and its not getting stuck, due to dirt or any obstruction, but instead it gets stuck by vacuum. My slide remains stuck, and the only way I'd be able to raise it would be by using a flat screw driver, it'd be stuck sealed, and when I put abit of force, then it lifts with a plop sound after which it moves freely, like its meant to do. This has happened twice now, and both times when I wasnt using 2T premix, and was gunning the throttle with a heavy pillion. So guys, keep an eye out.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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