Hey Guys,
I need your help on something. I need to set the afr to almost 5.5 turns for the rpm be stable. anywhere at the regular 3.5-4 turns and the bike acts as if its running extremely lean, with the rpm not falling down as i let go off the throttle.
My normal mech recently closed down and I am confused.

A local mech said that , the engine might be losing compression. History is that, I got it used at around 27k. There was a problem with the gearbox which was then fixed. I had no issues after that. Engine runs really smooth, gearbox is smooth, there is no real loss of power and I used to get about 30kmpl in the heart of the city before this problem. I used till 33k with any issues and handed it to a friend for the last 2k km when I was out of town.

I have had the carb cleaned, the cables checked. The battery is almost dead but it usually kick starts in the first 2-3 kicks, ocassionally going of in a traffic signal.

I appreciate any help.
Thanks.

Either your Pilot jet is clogged or your AFR screw is leaking air....
Also do a check of the inlet rubber hose from Air Filter box to the carburetor for any holes.
Check if the inlet Vacuum connecting rubber tube attached to the inlet near engine on the Petrol tap side is in place and connected.

Thanks for the quick reply psr, sir. I guess it was indeed a leaky afr screw.

Got my bike back from the shop this evening. Its been sitting there for almost 4 days, and I've been bunking office and sitting there for the past 2 days! As Sibun and PSR sir had mentioned before, the tensioner had gone kaput. This lead to the loosening of the timing chain and it jumped out of its usual place. Timing got missed and the piston hit the valves.

The culprits..

- Tensioner

- Chain guides - One was totally worn out


- Piston - The two marks highlighted are where the valves hit the piston. The other marks are the effects of me trying to decarbonize the piston!


-Valves


So got a new piston, did reboring. Changed the valves, timing chain guide and tensioner. Apart from this, the cam chain had also stretched little with some signs of wear. So got that changed as well.

Also, my mech said the clutch plates are burnt. Got it changed from ASC around 3k km back. They charged me 2.5k for it and took 5 days to do it! My mech got a local one outside for just 200 bucks! It is there in the bike now. I brought back the old clutch plates as well. PFB a pic of it. Only one seems to be burnt. This is a not as wide as the other four plates. Is this natural to be like this?


Now bike is running super smooth! It is currently running on Shell AX5 20w40. Total costs came around 6k. 2.5k for the lathe + 2k for parts + 1.5k for labour. Very much satisfied with the results..

People living in Murugeshpalya/HAL/Indira Nagar can try this mech. His name is Halil. He has a very small shop and he's a bit busy but if you sit there, he will get it done for you!

Special thanks to PSR sir, Sibun, Arun, Ashwin, Sriram, Shoeb, Aneesh and Divya Sharan for your guidance and support!

As per parts list only three of the friction plates are of the same size while trhe two others are different in size...see the Parts catalog i had up loaded ...E-6.
Good to know that you got the bike back in good condition, and happy with it.

Hi, PSR ur inbox is full..i cant send pm...have you posted ur ZMA's pic in the thread? if yes then wuts the page no.?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Check around march April 2011 period posts, might get lucky.

via Tapatalk

thanks psr sir.will check any air leak from afr screw and revert here

You'll now have a 226 cc engine

Glad to know your steed's back on it's wheels , although it came at a price .
About the clutch plates , how come it came so cheap ? Did it have any company's name on the packing ? How reliable is it ?

Philips Xtreme Vision.

Last day I changed my H/L bulb . I'd been running on 55/60W Halonix halogen bulb with a relay . The light was actually adequate , but since the Philips Xtreme Vision is supposed to give much more light I went for it . The intensity is much better and the color is more whitish than ordinary halogens .I haven't configured the high beam yet , seems the focussing has changed. The MRP on the package said 600/- and I paid 500/- . Osram Nightbreakers was also available , but it came in a pack of two and cost above 1000/- . Since my car uses H1 and H7 the 2nd one would've been of no use to me . So I bought this one .

Hello Acs, did you notice any high temperature from the headlight after the change, I bought a philips bulb think its not genuine and it caused a small bubble heat mark on my bikes reflector. I checked the bulb for CBR250 and didnt buy the thing because of its astronomical price of near 900rs but its made in Japan may be I might buy it in the next few days.

Hope you find this even better during night ride. The high beam throw is good. Also you'll notice, the lower beam is much whitish than the high beam which is more towards the yellow, to aid during misty conditions I thought.

There might be some additional heat compared to stock. I've been using Philips Xtreme Vision for past one year and that too without any relay. Have not noticed any abnormalilty on the reflector. If they ought to cause some damage, shall change the reflector, after all, nothing can be compromised when it comes to safe riding at night.

CBR250R runs on 55/60w - I'm not able to recollect the name of the bulb when my friend showed me, but it is Made in Japan for sure. They are decent too.

I had been using a 55/60 watts Halogen of Philips make, and have no problem with it so far...the light intensity and spread is very good and makes night time driving safe.

@ ACS1207 you are yet to give us a comprehensive observation & ride report,on your 233cc ZMA...on FE acceleration,Vibes if any, and top speed you had managed to reach...Looking forward to it.

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