Changed Petronas Sprinta @ 5~6k, the oil was still good and mainatined viscosity. Current oil is Motul 7100 10w40 FS.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Cool, I've already done 4k with 7100. So far it is good.

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Completed almost 100~200kms with it. And am not satisfied, the bike performs way too awesome when the atmospheric temperature is around 28~35 degrees, but when it's 40+ the clutch starts to stick abit, which is fine, but not expected from an oil costing around 800/-.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Any one here planning a ride in Mumbai tomorrow..

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Hii i want to mod my karizma r with a broad tyre...please guyzz suggest mee some..

Hi PSR sir, ACS sir, Sriram, Aneesh, Ashwin and others(I apologize if i had missed any names..)

A problem with my bike. Sometime back was riding back home. Was standing in a signal. When it was green, engaged the first gear, revvd it all the way up nicely. Then shifted to second. Heard a thud thud sound from below and engine died. Moved slowly to the side and stopped to examine. Oil was there, though a little blackish the viscosity was fine. Self start doesn't work on my bike since I got it almost 2 years back. So tried kick-starting, but no response. But the kicker was going all the way down freely like the clutch was engaged! Same way, in all the gears, the back wheel was rotating without holding the clutch. To sum it up, its like the clutch is engaged throughout. Im not able to kick/push-start the bike.

I started pushing it back home(around 5 km) when an auto man stopped and was kind enough to give me a tow! God bless him! There are still such good hearted people in this world.

Now what could be the problem my bike is facing here? Have to take it to my mech tomorrow morning. But any idea on what could've gotten messed up? Thanks a lot in advance!!

The fact that the kicker went all the way down without you feeling the compression of the engine means the valve is stuck open...this may also account for the back fire sound...did you try to start the engine after 10~15 minutes..because this a known problem with both CBZ and ZMA....This happens mostly due to either carbon deposit working loose(at high acceleration) and getting jammed between valve and valve seats, or due to " Sticky valve " problem due to Vapour condensation on valve stem .
when you open the valve doors(the tappet adjusting nuts) and see you will note that only one valve works(inlet) and the other (mostly exhaust) is stuck...
Good luck

Thanks for your response sir. I did try kicking after an hour also but still was the same. Let me check the above with my mech. Will keep you posted..

Just to satisfy my curiosity, put the bike in gear and then try pushing it, do you feel resistance? If not then open the inspection window and the push the bike, and see if the crank rotates.

Hopefully something like that is the case . But what about the sound ?
I'm not quite that techie in this , but I was thinking along those lines . Won't turning the wheel while on main stand do ?
When kicking in gear the mechanism is supposed to offer resistance except in neutral or if the clutch is engaged .
My feeling is that something between the connecting rod and the front sprocket is disengaged , but I hope it is something simpler - something like psr sir said . Best of luck .
What did the mech say? Keep us posted please .

The sound is what's confusing me as we'll, hence asked him to push the bike in gear. My doubt is whether his clutch basket broke loose. Else he might've bent his valves. Or the timing sprocket broke loose, or the timing chain broke in which case his wheel would lockup when he tried to move them in gear. Anyways lets wait and watch.

Thanks ACS sir and Ashwin bro for your responses. My regular mech has closed his shop So took it to another person close by. He opened it up. Below are the observations..

- One cam chain guide or tensioner(part no in catalogue - 14500-KBB-900) is totally worn out. I could see the metal showing after all the rubber on top being worn out. He says the cam chain was running very loose. But these both were changed around 10k km back.
Remedy: Change the cam chain and the chain guide(tensioner).

- There is a hit mark on the piston head. He says the piston has hit the valve which has caused the mark on the piston. This has also caused the valve to be bent.
Remedy: Change the piston head, rebore the head and change the valves.

- There is little play in the crankshaft connecting rod(part no in catalogue - 13201-KFB-300). He said the bearing in the crankshaft would have worn out. So the bearing has to be changed.

Till now he had quoted Rs5000 for all this.

Then he went on to remove the clutch plates to access the crank shaft. He said the clutch plates are burnt and have to change. But I got them changed from the ASC just 3 months(3k km) back. And they appeared fine. I have not seen a new set of clutch plates though. I told him this and then he told then we'll leave it like that only but its better I change it. I started smelling something fishy if this fellow just wants to play around and rip me off. So will be sitting with him throughout this process to see what all is actually done. Had to leave yesterday evening with this. Told him to buy all the required parts and keep so we'll sit today morning and finish it off. Went around 11 but his shop was closed and his phone was switched off. Will go again in sometime and keep you all posted.

Thanks again for all your responses and hope my bike is up and running soon. Miss her already!

Bro, which mech in Bangalore? Which area? [pls mention ur regular mech address as well as this new guy's address]

Fishy is the main word here ...You could have asked him to give a list of what all items are required and bought them . Anyway now tell him that any part removed from the bike for replacement should be given to you , that you have a showcase of items replaced from your bike at your home ( he might think you're eccentric , but what the h*ll aren't we all?!) . That way you can be sure that he really replaces the items . Also , confirm that he's putting in genuine items and not 'compatible ' items and then charging you for genuine ones . Ask him why this malfunction happened .
Keep us posted .
If re-boring is necessary then you can up the engine to 235 cc like I did with a bit more trouble !!!
If you can , pls co-ordinate with MAXzma .

I stay in Murugeshpalya bro. These guys are close to home. So gave it to them so that I could go sit there and watch while its being done.

Will keep that in mind

When I heard about the rebore, that is what came across my mind first. But when I tried to explain to him about the 220 piston here, he did not have a clue on how to go about that. So i decided to let him go with the standard piston only.

Absolutely!! I have decided to go sit with him throughout the process to see what is actually going into the bike. He did not open shop today. Will bunk office tomorrow and sit with him the whole day and get it done. Thanks for your inputs again!