More RR

My Speedometer cable broke day before yesterday and I had to purchase a new one. So, I approached my trustworthy mechanic friend (who is always at hand). I'll share some pictures to explain what I did today. I also needed to install that aluminum plate that I'd cut up to use as a heatsink.

1) The Old RR Unit opened up
(looks neat)


2) The aluminum plate was thinner than 1mm, so I doubled it up.


3) Holes drilled in place.


4) After fitting the RR Unit to the new 'heatsink'


5) Identifying problem spots. I will explain the problems next. Also note you would need to bend the heatsink slightly at the front to avoid the CDI.


6) The fairing won't fit properly due to these two obstructions. Note the Tail lamp assembly also needs more space.


7) After bending the heatsink properly, the assembly fits in easily.


8) As I said, the speedo cable was broken. So off I went with my friend to purchase a new cable. He asked me if the cable was intact, I said yes, the cable is intact, but the wire inside is broken. He goes "Oh ho", and took me to a spares shop where we purchased this. It is called a 'meter chain' (or 'meter wire') in mechanic's lingo. This was the first I heard that we only need to spend Rs 20-25 instead of 80 for the cable!

Since I had installed a Splendor cable, we bought a splendor inner wire. For those of you who are surprised at a Splendor cable, I suggest reading this entire thread as there is a TON of useful info that is NOT available for love or money anywhere else. Hint : A Splendor speedo cable is a direct fit for the Karizma, only, it's slightly longer, and slightly cheaper. If it's any consolation, even the shopkeeper was taken aback at that. However, problem solved!


9) Perfect fit, the speedometer now works, at 1/4th of the cost!



An observation I made was that after turning on the bike for a couple of minutes, and revving at say 2-3K RPM, the RR Unit's heatsink was very hot to the touch. It seems to be doing its job well, diverting all that heat away from the actual unit! Next up, I will put the old RR unit's heatsink with this DIY so that more heat is conducted away from the RR unit. I will also use some thermal paste to ensure a smooth transition.

Thanks for reading so far. I hope this helps someone, as much as the earlier posts with pictures have helped me. [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] - Thank you . Also, thanks to the others who have so generously contributed to this thread.

Re: More RR

Good DIY done properly........Since a thinner Aluminum plate is being used, I would suggest your using three or 4 plates to-gether to increase thickness and better heat dissipation..
The RR unit will heat during use, and ever since I found that, had asked owners to fit the aluminum heatsink to reduce chance of thermal failure in RR...

Re: More RR

Yes [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] ji. There are 4 plates (2 bends). It looks thicker than the stock RR aluminium back.

Re: More RR

Good DIY . psr sir has been advocating the heat sink idea for as far as I can remember . Actually I haven't done it yet , but will do so soon . Any good DIY guide with pictures will help many other members . So keep it coming !

Re: More RR

Today, my ZMA surprised me with astonishing FE. When my bike hit reserve, I filled fuel for INR 100, which was 1.29L of petrol. Since the filling, I had to ride at 60 kmph constant in 5th gear and 45 kmph constant at 4th gear at 60:40 ratio respectively. The ride included 90% highway and 10% city riding. And I had a pillion weighing 65 kgs; a total of 140 kgs payload including my weight. By the time the bike hit reserve again, I was able to ride for 73.4 kms, which turned out to be close to 56.9 kmpl (73.4/1.29) :O :O. Is this really possible? Or was there something wrong with reserve?

Tire pressures are kept normal, 27 at front and 34 at rear. AFR at 3.25 full turns. Engine oil Shell AX7 10w40.

Re: More RR

I guess it is . At constant speeds the ZMA might surprise you . I think it was Aneesh bhai who had a mileage test conducted as per his mech's wish and the result was similar .

Re: More RR

I regularly ride around 80 kmph on long rides, and I get 40-42 kmpl; in city around 35 kmpl. Never knew cruising around 45 kmph and 60 kmph would return such an exception FE figure. I still have a doubt in a corner, and would test again when I get a chance.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Guess one of the throttle cable busted in my bike. At times it doesn't return home when you leave the grip but acts like a cruise control. Lol

Damn, I felt this couple of times last week too during pre ride. I guess will change the cable.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The "B" cable is rusted again....this is the second time for you.....you should open throttle grip and try to plug the inlet to the cable with grease ...apply grease generously into the lower part of the throttle grip, and try parking your bike under shade, or else wrap plastic bag over the throttle grip holder during rain...

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Guys is the afr screw on a ZMA an Air type screw or a Fuel Type screw? I was reading an article and saw this "Fuel screw turned in (clockwise) gives a lean mixture and turned out (anti-clockwise) gives a rich mixture. Air screw turned in gives a rich mixture and turned out (anti-clockwise) gives a lean mixture."

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Can we ride in 115 - 120 kmph whole day in zma?
Big fan of karizma..vintage legend..

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

If the rider can, the ZMA most definately can. Provided its kept in good tune with a good quality oil. Depends on the rider. Not ZMA .


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Re: More RR

Thanks, the earlier helpful hints by a lot of mature individuals in this thread encourages others to participate as well.

Re: More RR

any one using kill engine kill switch in your ZMA,ZMR just like Fz16,r15,Pulsar etc

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

AFR ... Air Fuel Ratio. Clockwise > Lean. Anticlockwise > Rich.

The ZMA can. Can you?

The key .... It kills the engine effectively enough.