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**ashwinprakas** · 12-16-2012, 07:53 PM

Originally posted by AK3D View Post

Paint surfaces get dull due to dust, climatic conditions like rain etc that stick to the paint coat and gradually dull these down. For severe paint defects, it is recommended to first clay with a clay bar (not normal clay, but automotive clay) that removes surface impurities. The next step is to clean the paint with an automotive shampoo (normal shampoos harm a wax coating, so they are not meant to be used on painted surfaces).
Thirdly, if the paint is dull, you can use a rubbing compound like the diamond cut you have mentioned (and mind you, even on cars, these are hardly used once a year or two, and that is to remove surface swirls and scratches). Better to use a milder compound like meguiars scratchX or on a budget, Formula1 Scratch Out, or even cheaper, Motomax 2K or Ultimate rubbing compound ..:: Welcome To Motomax ::...
These are meant to be used conservatively else you could end up scratching or damaging the surface even more.

If as you say the FZ has lost its clearcoat, and looks grey, you might have nothing to lose by first washing it, and then using a polishing/rubbing compound, and then washing again (to remove the grit left by the polishing compound), and then waxing it with a good wax. It should bring back the lost shine.
If the paint has been severely damaged due to neglect, repainting might be the only option.

Also remember that the compounds are meant to be used with a microfibre cloth, as is the wax. If you use a harsh cloth, you will leave scratches on the paint.

Thanks for the speedy reply. And if what you say is accurate then theres no harm in using the Diamond Cut, reason being the above mentioned FZ was scheduled for a paintjob quoted at 7k, and I met the owner a week before the intended paintjob, he was a friend of a friend and it was our first meeting, I recommended that he buy new panels since it'd be cheaper, he said he'd consider it, and just before we parted I showed him the paintshop from where I buy Diamond Cut for loose, and he bought 2 loose bottles. And a week later, the guy called me up and invited me for a G2G trip to Ponmudi. Here are a few clicks I downloaded just now which was taken by that guys another friend whom I met during the G2G.

First when I saw the bike I thought it was a different bike because the skirts above the footpegs were rusted and I had advised them to sand it and spray paint with matte black, but when inquired they said it was the same bike and the distributor didnt have matte black so they went with matte silver. Seeing the bike even I was happy.

And in the end of the day made lots of new friends too.

**Subhojit Palchowdhury** · 12-18-2012, 03:55 AM

I want to change stock air filter on my ZMA-R. So, does any type of modification done in carburetor?
Please anybody help me.

**ashwinprakas** · 12-18-2012, 08:52 AM

Originally posted by Subhojit Palchowdhury View Post

I want to change stock air filter on my ZMA-R. So, does any type of modification done in carburetor?
Please anybody help me.

Go for a foam based free flow filter, it filters better than stock. People recommend conical paper based ones but they're not worth the moolah and after every reuse cycle the pores get bigger by 10% IIRC.
My current setup included 2 Stage UNI Air Filter, 140 Drilled Mains, Carb return spring shortened by 4 coils, Needle raised by an mm. I can hit close to 130kmph in 4th gear i.e top speed I used to do in 5th. A free flow intake takes away considerable torque from low end spectrum enabling the bike to gain power a thigh end.

**psr** · 12-18-2012, 01:35 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Go for a foam based free flow filter, it filters better than stock. People recommend conical paper based ones but they're not worth the moolah and after every reuse cycle the pores get bigger by 10% IIRC.
................A free flow intake takes away considerable torque from low end spectrum enabling the bike to gain power a thigh end.

Your observations are not based on factual information...A Paper Filter is still the best Air Filter in the world.....From Ninjas to Ducatis to Honda ,all use Paper filter only,...and no F1 car uses foam or oiled cotton filters...Only for the sake of re-usability and cost effectiveness,some manufacturers use oiled foam filters..
Manufacturers know best about their engine ,...since they designed the engine and know all of the parameters.

**ashwinprakas** · 12-18-2012, 02:05 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Your observations are not based on factual information...A Paper Filter is still the best Air Filter in the world.....From Ninjas to Ducatis to Honda ,all use Paper filter only,...and no F1 car uses foam or oiled cotton filters...Only for the sake of re-usability and cost effectiveness,some manufacturers use oiled foam filters..
Manufacturers know best about their engine ,...since they designed the engine and know all of the parameters.

I supported foam because, with stock filter around 4~5k there'd be a yellowish goo covering the carb mouth walls. With Paper based Cosworth also there was a similar result with brownish goo when opened at 6k. Now coming to dual stage foam, I have lost track of exact Kms done, cause my speedo went kaput, but its done around 6~7k and a few days back opened it to check status of the slide, just as a periodic maintenance since I had to remove panels to fix my custom breather, and all it had was some greenish residue, which I believe is due to the 2T oil which I had generously applied on the filter before use. So comparatively foam based has proven its worth in comparisson to the rest. BTW foam is used in more dusty environments, I've read mostly in dirt bikes etc cause they need more filtration, the CRF230 comes with a foam based filter as stock.

Anyways I wasnt stating either better than the other, I was just answering a query and recommending going for foam based free flows rather than paper based ones. The UNI I use now has more resistance than the earlier Cosworth, but I'd rather sacrifice on performance rather than the bike itself.

**phanikar** · 12-18-2012, 02:34 PM

@Ashwin: Could you please explain. How could you do 130kmph, if you "generously" use 2t oil to the air filter, no matter how bigger sized jets you use. Its not "always" about top end you take into consideration. All parts in a vehicle is not designed for top speed.

Foam filters are used for re-usability in dirt bikes, otherwise they would be spending more on air filters alone considering the terrain they are ridden. Also foam filter can be dried easily just in case they come in contact with water than paper type.

**psr** · 12-18-2012, 02:45 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Go for a foam based free flow filter, it filters better than stock. People recommend conical paper based ones but they're not worth the moolah and after every reuse cycle the pores get bigger by 10% IIRC.
.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

I supported foam because, with stock filter around 4~5k there'd be a yellowish goo covering the carb mouth walls. So comparatively foam based has proven its worth in comparisson to the rest. BTW foam is used in more dusty environments, I've read mostly in dirt bikes etc cause they need more filtration, the CRF230 comes with a foam based filter as stock.
Anyways I wasnt stating either better than the other, I was just answering a query and recommending going for foam based free flows rather than paper based ones. The UNI I use now has more resistance than the earlier Cosworth, but I'd rather sacrifice on performance rather than the bike itself.

The letters highlighted in bold in your post shows you are confused, and drawing conclusions based on hearsay or you are ill informed.
CFR230 is a dirt bike,with open sides and spends it's life in dirt&grime track..it is also likely to encounter mountain streams...you cannot compare it to the city bike ZMA.A foam filter like Mr.Phaniker said has it's limitations and use...

**ashwinprakas** · 12-18-2012, 03:58 PM

Originally posted by phanikar View Post

@Ashwin: Could you please explain. How could you do 130kmph, if you "generously" use 2t oil to the air filter, no matter how bigger sized jets you use. Its not "always" about top end you take into consideration. All parts in a vehicle is not designed for top speed.

It was a mistake on my part I was I'll informed and this what I ended up doing.

I had dipped both the layers in 2T oil, and no matter how much I sqeezed it, there were still residue left in it, and after plonking it in the bike, loads of oil dripped down onto the crakcase after a G2G to Mundanthurai. Bike was running too rich on pilots as well, but the low end performance was appreciated since I had to climb abit. I was satisfied with the stock setup, but got bored and wanted to experiment, and I also wanted some extra room to fix my windtones. Hence went for the mod. And am not into top end performance, I just love experimenting with the bike, and try hitting top end once in a while during morning runs to college when the roads are empty.

Originally posted by psr View Post

The letters highlighted in bold in your post shows you are confused, and drawing conclusions based on hearsay or you are ill informed.
CFR230 is a dirt bike,with open sides and spends it's life in dirt&grime track..it is also likely to encounter mountain streams...you cannot compare it to the city bike ZMA.A foam filter like Mr.Phaniker said has it's limitations and use...

Yup Sir, to be frank am confused. So here are the raw facts.
Stock Setup > (AFR@4 Turns)Top end 125kmph final gear, after that bike will die.
Cosworth > (AFR@6 Turns)Top end 130kmph final gear, bike will die if you keep it there for a while.
UNI > (AFR@3/3.5 Turns) Good initial and Top end 130Kmph in 4th gear @ 9+k rpm. If I try top end in final gear on my current roads I will hit the same 130kmph, so for the time being considering safety reasons I've decided to do a proper top end run in final gear when I ride up north.

**psr** · 12-18-2012, 10:13 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Yup Sir, to be frank am confused. So here are the raw facts.
Stock Setup > (AFR@4 Turns)Top end 125kmph final gear, after that bike will die.
Cosworth > (AFR@6 Turns)Top end 130kmph final gear, bike will die if you keep it there for a while.
UNI > (AFR@3/3.5 Turns) Good initial and Top end 130Kmph in 4th gear @ 9+k rpm. If I try top end in final gear on my current roads I will hit the same 130kmph, so for the time being considering safety reasons I've decided to do a proper top end run in final gear when I ride up north.

Try the Pulsar 42 teeth rear sprocket...it will give better low ,.... to mid ,...and better high end....
Remember your revs will be 450 RPM more in each gear to achieve the same speed as stock..

**Shabeer Khan** · 12-19-2012, 12:18 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

It was a mistake on my part I was I'll informed and this w

Yup Sir, to be frank am confused. So here are the raw facts.
Stock Setup > (AFR@4 Turns)Top end 125kmph final gear, after that bike will die.
Cosworth > (AFR@6 Turns)Top end 130kmph final gear, bike will die if you keep it there for a while.
UNI > (AFR@3/3.5 Turns) Good initial and Top end 130Kmph in 4th gear @ 9+k rpm. If I try top end in final gear on my current roads I will hit the same 130kmph, so for the time being considering safety reasons I've decided to do a proper top end run in final gear when I ride up north.

Its good to see some one accepting their fault instead of rolling in the dirt keep it up, not every one can do it and this forum is one hell of a thing to clear our doubts

**Subhojit Palchowdhury** · 12-19-2012, 12:39 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Go for a foam based free flow filter, it filters better than stock. People recommend conical paper based ones but they're not worth the moolah and after every reuse cycle the pores get bigger by 10% IIRC.
My current setup included 2 Stage UNI Air Filter, 140 Drilled Mains, Carb return spring shortened by 4 coils, Needle raised by an mm. I can hit close to 130kmph in 4th gear i.e top speed I used to do in 5th. A free flow intake takes away considerable torque from low end spectrum enabling the bike to gain power a thigh end.

Thank you Ashwin for the reply..

**SriramEfunds** · 12-19-2012, 01:11 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Newbies kindly note that Ashwins methods are far from stock and one needs better understanding of basics before trying or even thinking in those lines.

Anyone from Andhra Pradesh here? I might be riding there..

via Tapatalk

**Pinaki** · 12-19-2012, 03:49 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

.. I had dipped both the layers in 2T oil, and no matter how much I sqeezed it, there were still residue left in it, and after plonking it in the bike, loads of oil dripped down onto the crakcase ...

Next time around use sae90 gear oil - it sticks to foam better a for longer (i.e no dripping) . 90 gear oil is recommended for foam air-filter in the Splendor's manual too . Your process is fine .

**ashwinprakas** · 12-19-2012, 08:37 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Try the Pulsar 42 teeth rear sprocket...it will give better low ,.... to mid ,...and better high end....
Remember your revs will be 450 RPM more in each gear to achieve the same speed as stock..

I had very much thought about sourcing the KTM Duke(Gen 1) rear sprocket 43T, since after up sizing both front and rear there's a noticeable drag in roll on acceleration. But here comes the bad news, though front sprocket can be sourced as a single piece, rear sprockets cant, you'd have to get the entire kit to source the same.

Anyways just to satisfy my doubt whether the Kollam SVC's screwing with me, I've inquired with a few other Bhpians, and they have agreed to inform me the earliest. If by chance I get any good news will be posting it here.

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Next time around use sae90 gear oil - it sticks to foam better a for longer (i.e no dripping) . 90 gear oil is recommended for foam air-filter in the Splendor's manual too . Your process is fine .

Whats the exact process??? Should we dip both the layers??? Or should we just spread the oil by hand??? First time with foam, so am clueless, tried googling but all I could find are videos in which the guy would use the spray cleaner and lube which I believe are hard to source and expensive.

**harishkumarko** · 12-19-2012, 10:56 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Try the Pulsar 42 teeth rear sprocket...it will give better low ,.... to mid ,...and better high end....
Remember your revs will be 450 RPM more in each gear to achieve the same speed as stock..

Sir won't this mean we can't engage fifth gear in city? i.e. one can't even do 40kmph @ 5th gear.

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