FYI.. Michelin M45 4.00x18 is slightly bigger than stock which 100/90. is a good tyre on tarmac and wet conditions and only average offroading capability. This comes from experience of running M45 for about 20k kms.

Yes, we see signs of tyre getting bald around the center around 20k kms and it is better to change it for better.

karizma reboring log

Hey I wanted to bring some issues into light as to rebore work on Karizma
I came upon an article so now that I have re bored and bore is smooth as butter I don't know what's gonna happen.
Full article is here ------ > Motorbike Cylinder Bore Work

When a cylinder is new or overhauled the surface of it's walls are honed with abrasive stones to produce a rough surface that will help wear the piston rings in. This roughing up of the surface is known as "cross-hatching". A cylinder wall that has been properly "cross hatched" has a series of minute peaks and valleys cut into its surface. The face or portion of the piston ring that interfaces with the cross hatched cylinder wall is tapered to allow only a small portion of the ring to contact the honed cylinder wall. When the engine is operated, the tapered portion of the face of the piston ring rubs against the coarse surface of the cylinder wall causing wear on both objects.
Each tiny groove acts as the oil reservoir holding oil up to the top level of the groove where it then spreads over the peak surface. The piston ring must travel up and down over this grooved surface, and must "hydroplane" on the oil film retained by the grooves. Otherwise, the ring would make metal-to-metal contact with the cylinder wall and the cylinder would quickly wear out.
However the ring will only ride on this film of oil if there is sufficient surface area to support the ring on the oil. When the cylinders are freshly honed the peaks are sharp with little surface area. Our goal when seating the rings on new steel cylinders is to flatten out these peaks to give more surface area to support the rings, while leaving the bottom of the groove intact to hold enough oil to keep the surface of the cylinder wet with oil. At the point where the top of the peaks produced by the honing operation become smooth and the tapered portion of the piston ring wears flat break in has occurred.
If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could (read will) glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil , no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in the rings are sure to glaze over.

Front view of the handle bar ( First pic is stock handle bar. Second one the P200 handle bar). Note the difference in height .








Side view. ( First pic stock handle. Second pic P200 handle bar)





Again for better understanding of other members.





Exactly as PSR sir said. The connection is leaking. When trying to dismantle the hose from the disc brake reservoir and refitting use fevi bond silicon gasket maker or it will leak no matter how much you tight the nut. Too bad we carried out the work on sunday and no shops were open. Have to fix it ASAP.

Back after riding to Yercaud this weekend. The trip was good and the bike performed really well! No problems of the engine heating or turning off. Felt it getting little hot when climbing up the ghats so gave it a break then. Apart from that gave it breaks every 50-100km.
Around 1200km done after the engine rebore. Did an oil change before the trip - Shell AX5. Maintained speeds of 80-90 throughout and the bike was very smooth and peppy!

The bike looks really good with the new handle bar

Update: Got my rear alloys finally changed. CBZ extreme(old Model) and ZMA share the same alloy(dimensionally) but with different part numbers from HMC. The ZMA alloy costs around 5.9-6K where as the extreme alloys are priced at 3.2K(rear). No changes what so ever required for the swap, just plug and play. But the front alloy cant be replaced with Extreme/Unicorn since the disc plate mounting points differ. Extreme has got a smaller disc plate compared to ZMA. So total expenses incurred(including my last week's circus) is around 4.2K. If anybody is willing to change the disc plate(not sure if the caliper position matches) then they can go for CBZ extreme(10 Spoke Alloy),latest model which is even more cost effective. Front: 2290/- and rear 2690/- rear.

Details:
Alloy Wheel: 3200/- (CBZ Extreme OEM)
Swing arm bushes: Rs.400/- (Bajaj Pulsar Classic 180)
Sprocket Bearing: Rs. 200/- (OEM)
Wheel Bearing: Rs.150X2=300/- (FAG)
Sprocket Rubber: Rs.150/- IIRC (OEM)

Nice piece of info sir jee. But, won't the different alloys (design wise) look weird?
Can you post some pics of your bike so that both wheels are clearly visible?

There is no change in design, Its exact replica, Not even a mm here and there. Thats why I said, its dimensionally same as my older ZMA alloy. will post a pic soon.

Great find and effort...Thanks for the update with lots of details....

Today i took my bike to mechanic since perfomance issue is not solved even after cleaning carb slide.while accelarating it start knowking abit.like wise in 5th gear at 60kmph if we WOT,it feel load on engine(knock)and speed increase slowly.Today also got changed chain tensioner as its was creating noise while startup and disapear as heat up.following observation i got on various aspects

*bike is 2007 model,and completed 51100km till now
*i change engine oil at 2000km,it doesnt need to do top up,it doesnt consume engine oil.
*sparkplug is redish white in colour its look all right.
*front rear wheel are free to rotate.
*Carb jet are stockin size never tempered it.125 main and 35 pilotjet
*engine is smooth not sound of piston scraping.
*daily commuting 60km on pure highway and keep 60-80kmph and got 40-43kmpl consistently.
*no leakage of air from intake system carb hoses.
*spark is very strong as it appear normal to me.

these are my previous observation about my bike
my mechanic told that this low perfomance and knocking is due to piston and block related and required to open up head and block and could be require to change piston block.
it will making nightmare for me,new block kit is costing Rs.3000+

PSR sir and other experts please do some favour to me.

@Ramborider - I really appreciate the way you have given the insight about the bike before discussing the issue. My thoughts are, may be AFR is towards lean side. Could result in 40+ mileage. Let me know..

@ Ramborider Like Mr.Sriram said all symptoms point to Lean AFR...so check..

1. No of turn of AFR screw...it should be THREE AND A HALF turn Anti Clockwise, after turning it GENTLY Fully Clockwise till it stops.
2. Check for Air Leak through AFR screw...this had happened in many ZMA ...

i had also checked by tunning AFR screw,no air leakage thogh AFR screw,its now on 3.75 anti clockwise turn.also checked from other mechanic they also said it could be due to piston ring or piston block issue.i also notice there is white smoke when rev around 6000-7000rpm(i didnt redline)on main stand.
they said have to open head and check if if requred then may be piston block could be kaput.

For how much KM we have to replace the tires.

White smoke coming through exhaust is confirmation of worn bore and piston rings.....better to change the bore kit ,unless you have very good re-boring done by knowledgeable people.