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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
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The Top speed Vs RPM calculation in ZMA is for every 1,000 RPM the speed is 15 Kmph in the 5th gear....so if you are in doubt always check by this ratio...in your case of indicated RPM of 8,500 RPM the speed should have been 8.5 X 15 =127.5 Kmph.....so an indication of 115 Kmph is due to faulty speedo cable/pinion, or clutch slip..Originally posted by krish View PostWhen Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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If the bike just idles,and trying to accelerate shuts down the engine, then check for CDI loose contact...when such a situation arises, open the seat and shake the CDI connecting cable bunch,and bike will be normal....Originally posted by MAXzma View PostLast week, after riding for some 80km with breaks, all of a sudden the engine went off. It would start but it would just idle. When revv'd, it would go off. Again started and this time it wouldn't start. Tried different combinations with/without choke all that but nothing happened. Let it for five minutes and then it started. It rode fine and no problem during the almost 100km return ride.
Last night we rode to the airport(around 50km from home). Maintained speeds of 60-80 throughout. On the ride back, gradually increased the speed to 90's. After some 20km, the engine went off again. Same thing. Started after 5 mins and it started and rode fine. Any idea on what the issue could be??
If the problem happens after riding at sustained high RPM for some time, and cooling the engine solves it, then Piston to bore clearance may be less.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Hearty Congratulation on completing the long trip .Originally posted by SriramEfunds View PostYesterday eturnd home after completing 3800kms approx. covering Andhra Pradesh and fee places in Orissa. Bike really performed well, have no doubts about it. Used Mobil 1 10w40 FS, amazing results. Never had cold start issue, engine was butter smooth and revved freely. It costs around 750 here in Chennai. Recommending to all tourers.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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About the top speed thingi, I believe you're AFR is too rich, causing the bike to hit brick wall, no need to tune AFR for that, since tune varies from place to place and climate to climate. Same thing about the mileage, keeping a steady throttle helps. Also keep a check on your air filter. If its clogged then you might face both the abobe mentioned symptoms. Ride safeOriginally posted by krish View Post1. Mileage- I was getting between 32-34 kmpl at all times on the trip. My setting is same as whats mentioned in the thread. How is it that most people are getting 40+ whereas I'm getting such a low number.
2. On my return from Wayanad-Bangalore, I increased my throttle input. But was dissapointed to see that the bike maxed out at 115kmph with the rpm at 8.5k and it was struggling to reach these speeds. Was shocked to see this, since the top speed earlier was 130kmph on speedo and 120 could be reached with ease.
Could the 2 issues be related? What all should I get checked?
CDI going stupid. Happens once in a while. Remove it, clean contacts and put it back. The bike only idling issue happens to me when I accidentally let go of clutch and it stalls, then when I crank it up again it idles and dies when throttle is given(Once happened when Sarin bro was riding, lol should've seen his faceOriginally posted by MAXzma View PostHappy New Year to All!!
Guys I have a small problem..
Last week, after riding for some 80km with breaks, all of a sudden the engine went off. It would start but it would just idle. When revv'd, it would go off. Again started and this time it wouldn't start. Tried different combinations with/without choke all that but nothing happened. Let it for five minutes and then it started. It rode fine and no problem during the almost 100km return ride.
Last night we rode to the airport(around 50km from home). Maintained speeds of 60-80 throughout. On the ride back, gradually increased the speed to 90's. After some 20km, the engine went off again. Same thing. Started after 5 mins and it started and rode fine. Any idea on what the issue could be??
), it usually goes away when I reset the ignition. Once it stalled like that and my idiot friend kept cranking it hard, the bike started up and started breathing, its like RPM jumping in idle, was funny to see the bike do that, but when the ignition was reset it started up like normal.
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Nice ride done there SriOriginally posted by SriramEfunds View PostYesterday eturnd home after completing 3800kms approx. covering Andhra Pradesh and fee places in Orissa. Bike really performed well, have no doubts about it. Used Mobil 1 10w40 FS, amazing results. Never had cold start issue, engine was butter smooth and revved freely. It costs around 750 here in Chennai. Recommending to all tourers.
let me drain out this crappy castrol power 1 racing and try Mobil 1. How does it react to engine heat for long hours of riding, say around 10-12 hours at around 100kmph??? if its good will try it.
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If you feel Castrol Power 1 isnt good then you're using a fake one, I havent yet used it. But on inquiry this is what Vineeth(He's flown off to Australia) bro said. Anyways for 10~12hours at 100kmph I'd recommend the Motul 5100 15W50, Im currently using Motul 7100 10W40 which is good, but not worth the moolah. I've ridden Vishnu RP's ZMA which was then running on Motul 5100, he's from TVM and I'm from Kollam(70~80kms), and when I rode his bike, it was uber smooth and gearshifts were also silky smooth, the usual sockety feeling wasnt there, it felt like an R15's tranny at work, and heres the best thing it costs around Rs.550/- only, which is VFM considering Rs.750/- I paid for Motul 7100.Originally posted by phanikar View PostNice ride done there Sri
let me drain out this crappy castrol power 1 racing and try Mobil 1. How does it react to engine heat for long hours of riding, say around 10-12 hours at around 100kmph??? if its good will try it.
@ALL-
My Kicker seal has blown, and is leaking oil. Can I change it by pulling out the seal from the exterior? If yes, then how? Or should I have to open the clutch cover? Im reluctant cause the oil is only around 2~3k old, and has loads of life left, but If there arent any other options then will do so.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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It was sent directly from Castrol, not through any dealers or shops, so genuinity is out of question. Have tried Motul 5100, not worth for long rides, feels sluggish. For city rides, yeah its a bit smooth.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostIf you feel Castrol Power 1 isnt good then you're using a fake one, I havent yet used it. But on inquiry this is what Vineeth(He's flown off to Australia) bro said. Anyways for 10~12hours at 100kmph I'd recommend the Motul 5100 15W50, Im currently using Motul 7100 10W40 which is good, but not worth the moolah. I've ridden Vishnu RP's ZMA which was then running on Motul 5100, he's from TVM and I'm from Kollam(70~80kms), and when I rode his bike, it was uber smooth and gearshifts were also silky smooth, the usual sockety feeling wasnt there, it felt like an R15's tranny at work, and heres the best thing it costs around Rs.550/- only, which is VFM considering Rs.750/- I paid for Motul 7100.
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Yeah IIRC I remember him mentioning sluggishness when cold. I might go for Castrol FS one with the Golden Bottle not sure about its name, It costs around 500/- here. I believe since its FS fake wont be available. I dont know if it makes any difference but Vineeth bro using the Borric Treatment as well.Originally posted by phanikar View PostIt was sent directly from Castrol, not through any dealers or shops, so genuinity is out of question. Have tried Motul 5100, not worth for long rides, feels sluggish. For city rides, yeah its a bit smooth.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Castrol Power 1 10W50 Fully Synthetic. MRP 700 for a litre.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostYeah IIRC I remember him mentioning sluggishness when cold. I might go for Castrol FS one with the Golden Bottle not sure about its name, It costs around 500/- here. I believe since its FS fake wont be available. I dont know if it makes any difference but Vineeth bro using the Borric Treatment as well.Biking is not about what you have between your legs, its all about how well you use it!!!!!!!
Give your details here if you want to help your fellow xBhpian stranded in your city
Touring Blog: Cycling in Mongolia!
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The golden bottle itself I was mentioning in my earlier post. Rs500/- for a FS is very doubtful of being original. The MRP on my bottle IIRC was around 850-900/-Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostYeah IIRC I remember him mentioning sluggishness when cold. I might go for Castrol FS one with the Golden Bottle not sure about its name, It costs around 500/- here. I believe since its FS fake wont be available. I dont know if it makes any difference but Vineeth bro using the Borric Treatment as well.
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Thanks sir!Originally posted by psr View PostIf the bike just idles,and trying to accelerate shuts down the engine, then check for CDI loose contact...when such a situation arises, open the seat and shake the CDI connecting cable bunch,and bike will be normal....
If the problem happens after riding at sustained high RPM for some time, and cooling the engine solves it, then Piston to bore clearance may be less.
Will check the CDI. Also, about the piston to bore clearance, will it smoothen out on the long run? Bike has done almost 700km now but very less time on high rpms. Slowly increasing the rpms now when riding..
Thanks Ashwin. Will check the CDI..Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostCDI going stupid. Happens once in a while. Remove it, clean contacts and put it back. The bike only idling issue happens to me when I accidentally let go of clutch and it stalls, then when I crank it up again it idles and dies when throttle is given(Once happened when Sarin bro was riding, lol should've seen his face
), it usually goes away when I reset the ignition. Once it stalled like that and my idiot friend kept cranking it hard, the bike started up and started breathing, its like RPM jumping in idle, was funny to see the bike do that, but when the ignition was reset it started up like normal.
We are miles away from the routine.
Headlights rise over the horizon.
Pierce the morning fog.
Cut through the clutter in our minds.
Carve new highways!
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Originally posted by The Monk View PostCastrol Power 1 10W50 Fully Synthetic. MRP 700 for a litre.Plan droppedOriginally posted by phanikar View PostThe golden bottle itself I was mentioning in my earlier post. Rs500/- for a FS is very doubtful of being original. The MRP on my bottle IIRC was around 850-900/-
Might stick to Motul 5100 or go back to minerals. I saw the golden bottle in a nearby shop and they quoted Rs.500 something, I thought the one you were mentioning was the green bottle with same dimentions, IIRC its also called Power 1.
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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I cant quite put my finger on it(Might be KTM or Pulsar), but I remember reading somewhere than new bikes will stall when hot and resume running when cold, and it would be like that till run in is over.Originally posted by MAXzma View PostThanks sir!
Will check the CDI. Also, about the piston to bore clearance, will it smoothen out on the long run? Bike has done almost 700km now but very less time on high rpms. Slowly increasing the rpms now when riding..
But then I have a doubt. If thats the case then wont the kicker seize as well, till engines cooled down???Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
Comment
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R
I have not faced any heat issues so far. Took the bike to the best of all worst condition roads and it did performed good. I would say it is better than Motul 7100. Go for this oil, I'm impressed.Originally posted by phanikar View PostNice ride done there Sri
let me drain out this crappy castrol power 1 racing and try Mobil 1. How does it react to engine heat for long hours of riding, say around 10-12 hours at around 100kmph??? if its good will try it.
via TapatalkRX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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Which company pistons did you use.Originally posted by MAXzma View PostThanks sir!
Will check the CDI. Also, about the piston to bore clearance, will it smoothen out on the long run? Bike has done almost 700km now but very less time on high rpms. Slowly increasing the rpms now when riding..
Thanks Ashwin. Will check the CDI..
700 kms on a rebore is very less. Un like in new bore kit, rebore engines have very less clearance and as a result piston when expands jams with bore.
Believe, me when i was running on re-bore in my joy, the same problem as yours has arised, in my case as the engine heats up idling will decrease and will ultimately not idle. It took almost 5k for the problem to cure. So believe, do not fiddle with bike and run for sometime more and the problem will cure itself.
It is for this reason that i always advise to go for usha piston when re-boring as it contains silicon and is semi forged which resists expansion when heating. So even though you run tight clearance there will be no problem. Else go for new bore kit or else rebore with slight more clearance.
Believe me i have already experimented with above scenario. Also check CDI connection.Photo of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/854067-post963.html-3.88 lac km cont....Ownership review of my joy- http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/832255-post608.html- slowly updating as and when getting time. HERO HONDA CBZ EXTREME(2011) - 47K KM AND COUNTINGhttp://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...tml#post904152-carb tuning guide
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