Aries, The M45 4 x 18 tyre has huge profile (height of the tire from rim edge), and is a little more wider than regular 100 section tyre. Normally, you can fit this tyre without any issues. This tyre causes problem 1) when the chain-sprocket kit is new, 2) when the shocks are weak, 3) when the rim is bent, 4) when the tyre is not properly aligned, 5) when you maintain less air pressure, and 6) when the chain adjustment is not done in proper method.

The side wall would scrape the chain (left) case or rear brake stay rod (right) if the tyre or rim is not properly aligned. If there is a bent rim, generally the tyre touches the walls of chain guard only at one point (either right or left). If there is a problem with chain adjustment (there would be measurements on either of the swingarm rods that should be same on either side), the tyre would scrape throughout the rotation of the tyre. And, if there is less air in the rear tyre with pillion, the side walls of the tyre would bulge and touch the chain case or rear brake stay rod (always maintain a min pressure of 30, 35 is the best with pillion).

In your case, please check if the rim is bent, or the tyre is not properly aligned, or the chain adjustment is uneven. For the tyre touching the top of the mudguard, check if the shock absorbers are gone. And as for the 'tilting of the tyre' at SVC, I don't have a clue how they did it. Please take to a good mechanic and check what exactly has been done and correct it.

When the chain-sprocket kit is new, the rear tyre would come close to the swingarm joints and would touch the hanging plastic flap there (because of the huge profile of the tyre). As the chain loosens, the rear wheel slowly goes away from it. I don't think you have this problem.

Please check things as I have mentioned. Also check if your swing arm bushes are in good condition. If the swingarm bushes worn out, when you apply brakes, the rear wheel shakes.

All the above I wrote is my experience with this tyre and I am currently using it. I have faced similar issues with this tyre.

Nope, back at home.
My co-riders RTR started popping as soon as we reached Rajapalayam, I believe it was the change in the altitude. And since it was his first time travelling above 100kms at a stretch so he wanted to come back, but there were no lodges anywhere near, so we had to go upto Madurai, and call it a night, in the morning there wasnt any popping, but our schedule was affected so we had to return anyways (we have college today), we took the Palakkad route and reched home by 9.30pm yesterday. Did a total of 800.4 Kms.

No filter medium is zen percent perfect, be it stock or after market. But the benefit of running stock is that it soothen's the intake, reducing induction noise and also reduces turbulence, which in a way plays the role of a buffer, the long route nullifies the after effects caused by atmospheric changes which gives you a smooth riding experience.

Now about the 150R in the video. Theres a 250R in my college with a K&N installed and its loud, way louder than the R6. But speaking from experience. I'd anyday go for a foam based filter. Now about using the same in a ZMR, just like the CBR's the ZMR also has PGMFi but yet it wont work out as expected, reason being the PGMFi acts like closed loop only while Idling and at WOT, the rest of the time it acts like an open loop, running on preset maps. So in short, you wont face any startup issues or missing at WOT, but the mid end will be comparatively lean, which from personal experience is good, i.e if you're the high revving type.

Now about free flows, be it intake or exhaust, it shifts the torque high up the rev range. Sounds cool, but heres the thing, I can hit 130k speedo in 4th gear. But if I rev from 50ish in 5th gear, bike hits a wall at 120k, yesterday was keeping the throttle wide open(Not at all trying to test top end, cause if I wanted to do that I would've hit the hard limiter from 3rd gear itself to keep the momentum going.) and riding the Salem highway, my speedo indicated 115~120k at 7.xk rpm where as the RTR which I overtook while at WOT reported 126k when I overtook him, meaning I was faster than him. I believe the change in tire is the reason my speedo's registering less speed that before. And I also faced a slight weird spot(It wasnt a rich/lean spot, it was just weird, hence the name) while returning. So if you can live with the following then go ahead, else if you're more into reliability and bursts a vein every time something goes wrong then this isnt for you, I have many friends who did stupid things without proper calculation.

@ All.
Bike was running on Motul 7100 10w40, the experience was positive even after close to 5k kms usage.
Issues noted during the trip were as follows.
1. Clunky shifts, this is common and the Motul helped soothen it, but its still there, its like theres a delay for things to happen, i.e after downshifting to one and releasing clutch and giving throttle theres a clunk, but only after shifting, not always.
2. Speedo needle doesnt remain steady, it quivers.
3. Just now when I went to buy milk, noticed a huge scrape on the front fender, it seems the number plate has scraped it. I had hit a really deep pothole at 100+kmph yesterday night at Alapuzha while following a state transport. Is this normal, or should I overhaul front suspension.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Ashwin, no need to do any front suspension overhaul. Most probably it was due to depleted fork oil. Change the fork oil to exact volume and it would be fine.

Thank you all for the kind good wishes....
@Ashwin the grade of oil in Fork is 20W....if the level or grade is wrong( thinner oil) the fork will dive ,and loose it's damping.

Belated Birthday Wishes Sir .

Talking about fork oil, when does one need to check/change it? My bike will be completing a year on 29th Jan.

Replies in BOLD

Aries, The M45 4 x 18 tyre has huge profile (height of the tire from rim edge), and is a little more wider than regular 100 section tyre. Normally, you can fit this tyre without any issues. This tyre causes problem 1) when the chain-sprocket kit is new, 2) when the shocks are weak, 3) when the rim is bent, 4) when the tyre is not properly aligned, 5) when you maintain less air pressure, and 6) when the chain adjustment is not done in proper method.

1. Chain sprocket kit is new may be 4000km only. I dono whether it can be called new now.
2. Shocks were in soft setting made it 2 stages harders i think ts now 1 step above average. (so now mud guard touching problem is not there)
3. The tyre rim is not bent. since the tyre touching the chain cover happens for the entire area
4. In order not to scrape the chain cover the tyre is slightly shifted away from the chain cover
5. Air pressure and Chain adjustment done properly.


The side wall would scrape the chain (left) case or rear brake stay rod (right) if the tyre or rim is not properly aligned. If there is a bent rim, generally the tyre touches the walls of chain guard only at one point (either right or left). If there is a problem with chain adjustment (there would be measurements on either of the swingarm rods that should be same on either side), the tyre would scrape throughout the rotation of the tyre. And, if there is less air in the rear tyre with pillion, the side walls of the tyre would bulge and touch the chain case or rear brake stay rod (always maintain a min pressure of 30, 35 is the best with pillion).



In your case, please check if the rim is bent, or the tyre is not properly aligned, or the chain adjustment is uneven. For the tyre touching the top of the mudguard, check if the shock absorbers are gone. And as for the 'tilting of the tyre' at SVC, I don't have a clue how they did it. Please take to a good mechanic and check what exactly has been done and correct it.
For "Tilting" is that they have adjusted the two swing arm rod in different lengths. The right side swing arm is tightened more for "tilting effect". This is done to move the tyre away from the chain cover.
When the chain-sprocket kit is new, the rear tyre would come close to the swingarm joints and would touch the hanging plastic flap there (because of the huge profile of the tyre). As the chain loosens, the rear wheel slowly goes away from it. I don't think you have this problem.

Please check things as I have mentioned. Also check if your swing arm bushes are in good condition. If the swingarm bushes worn out, when you apply brakes, the rear wheel shakes.

All the above I wrote is my experience with this tyre and I am currently using it. I have faced similar issues with this tyre.



Again Can any one help me on a Mechanic in Pune. Pimpri chinchwad. area.

Your birthday, Sir? If so you are younger for one more year now! Wish another happy and healthy year.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I thought he knows better than anyone here. Still having doubt?



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Thanks for the good wishes......the fork oil change is normally done at Two years or 15,000 kms whichever occurs earlier...or if you see uneven front tire wear .

Done 19K kms, will get changed in the upcoming service

Thanks for the good wishes

Check the fork oil seals also...It is good practice to change it ,along with oil if you are opening the fork.
The fork oil is 20w grade

Changed springs in the front forks (6.2 years old), fork oil, and fork cone set. The front had stiffened a bit, but behaving well. Hope it becomes normal after some usage. I was shocked get all the spares, including THE WINE RED FRONT FENDER from a local spares shop. :O Seems he has all the panels of my bike's color in stock. :O

I compared the length of the old fork springs and the new springs and there is almost over 0.5 cm difference. Thanks to PSR for the advice to change the springs, and thank God I was able to procure them from nearby local spares shop.

And I used SKF cone set 8 months back and they gone kaput in just 5k kms. I dragged for another 5k kms and now gone back to original HH coneset. Lets how it goes.

Fork springs 182 rupees each
Cone set/ball races kit 271 rupees
Fork oil 20W 150 rupees (375ml)
Unicorn palm grips 88 rupees
Front wheel fender/mudguard 1000 rupees.
Labor extra.

Google WILL NOT and CAN'T give you accurate distance readings even if you follow it inch by inch. What a way to compare the speedo accuracy, OMG.