Here is another pic from a different angle. And the picture is taken in broad daylight without any flash. Its the actual color. I am surprised that I get low FE and lean appearance of sparkplug, with rick setting of AFR at 3.5 turns.

I had also set my AFR at 3.5 turns...my Air Filter is the Zen MPFi one and it is now 7,000 Kms old...it had turned a bit dark ....still with your bike plug appearance i would have guessed a FE of 40 + only....Check and set tire pressure periodically, and keep the drive Chain well lubed with brown bearing grease.Set your clutch lever free play to 5mm .Check for brake binding ...both front and back.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I have always maintained tire pressure on higher side. 30 in front and 35 at back and both the tires are tubeless. And I periodically check the pressure at least once every week. Chain lubing too, I maintain it myself. Clutch lever play is within limits. And I shift gears at optimum rpm with progressive acceleration. Both front and rear tires rotate freely and I check every day. :-D

In city riding for me includes mostly 2-3 gears, 4 and 5 gears only 15% of time. Maybe thats the reason for low FE in city conditions.

Most of the times I do fulltank. My FE calculation is with fulltank. I get an FE of around 35 with mixed city and highway riding. The next time, I would fill in with a liter and check the FE.

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30 in the front ????????

WOW ! ..front should be 26 and rear 30 (max rear tire 32 Psi)...otherwise the tire will be overstressed and ply will break and tire will develop weak spots ....Have you checked the plug gap ? the ground electrode of G power wears due to concentrated sparks and forms a well like dimple,thereby increasing the gap...set it to 0.8 .
I think it is your riding style which is giving low FE...in ZMA you can cruise comfortably in 5th gear at 35~40 Kmph...so try to shift at 3~4 K RPM and observe your FE.
I hope you are running on stock plug wires and plug cap

Ok, since we're discussing spark plugs, here's my ride's spark plug. Is it too lean?



I got the air filter changed, spark plug changed (G Power), oil changed, tire pressures 26F and 30R (check once every week).
Of late I get only 38-39 kmpl in city compared to ~41-42ish earlier. Highway mileage has also reduced to 45 kmpl compared to ~48ish earlier.

What am I missing?

Regarding the air pressure, I am using both rear and front as TUBELESS tires. I have seen 29 psi for all tubeless tires in the front, be it Bajaj, hero, or Honda. ZMR manual says 29 in the front and even my Dazzler, and R15 too. I used to fill 25 before when it was tubetype, and now after converting to Tubeless, I am using 30 in the front. And even I observed after converting to tubeless, if I put 25 in the front, there is a bit of more cushion in the front tyre than required.

As for the rear tire pressure, I used to fill 32 in the rear when it was tubetype. I changed to M45 Tubeless, and when I filled 32, even there was a bit of cushion. The profile of M45 is very HUGE, any bit of cushion used to expand the wall more than required and edges tend to touch either chain case or rear brake stay rod. 30 at the back is for single rider, and it should be 33 or 35 psi at the rear with pillion (as suggested in manuals of all TL tires). And single rider they generally mean a 65-70kg rider. I am a bit overweight a(at 85), and 35 at the back doing well. Of course, there would be a loss of air of around 2-5 psi in four to five days. Considering all these I settled at 35 for rear. The rear tyre is doing good and the wear out is flat only, and not just at the center. And, for other low profile tires 32 is good with pillion, and as for M45 which has huge profile, 35 at the rear would be ideal with pillion. I am filling 35 at rear because there would be more air loss than normal (using a TT tire as TL).

And as for the plug gap, I will check today and adjust if needed. And yes I am running the stock plugwires and cap. Do I need to change them?

And I generally shift at 3-4k rpm only. And I cannot ride in fifth gear anything below 45 kmph. Engine lugs below 50 kmph. Does this indicate anything? Wearout of bore?

Regarding your plug it does look a bit burnt, and the threads show over heating...you HAD not Tightened the plug fully leading to loss in compression and poor heat dissipation of the plug....look at the crush washer at the base of plug..it is not crushed flat...if you want to know how it should look just see the pic of my plug in the previous page...so first tighten the plug and see...If FE is still not good do the Power Down hard re-set......
For one thing you are now at Bangalore where the elevation is 3,000 ft above sea level, hence air is thin and your bike is running slightly rich..disconnect battery and leave it for 10 minutes, Reconnect the battery after 10 minutes and start using the bike...this is a power down reset mode for ECM and ECM will start learning over the next few Kms ...So initially after rest the bike may not run to your liking,but once the basics are learned it will become normal....

If you are happy and bike is not loosing traction then it is ok to have slightly over inflation....
Regarding the plug I did notice that the crush washer at the base of plug still looks new ie., not crushed...it has rounded feature, while a properly tightened plug will show a flat washer...please see the picture of my G power plug....you will notice that the washer is absolutely flat...fully crushed...so get the plug fully tightened and then see if any improvement is there.

PSR sir, I just checked the pack of G-power plug. The indicated gap of the original plug is 0.9 mm. Shall I set it to 0.8 mm? I have lost the manual and I don't exactly remember the gap of the stock sparkplug. Just tightened the spark plug to full myself.

The stock recommended gap for Spark Plug is 0.9...because of pitting on the ground electrode due to use, I had asked you to set it to 0.8....I presume you had tightened the plug well now..

Need help.

All of a sudden while riding I noticed that my bike was accelerating more than usual, i.e; it seemed as if the accelerator is kept pulled in.

I stopped and switched off/on the ignition. Now, my idling is over 2k RPM which was 1.2-1.4k earlier.
Also, I noticed some leakage near the shift lever. It wasn't there in the morning.



It's not from the drain bolt. It is clean. Where is this oil leaking from?

Also, see this video. Sorry for the crappy quality. Taken from my ice age phone in broad daylight.

Did you reset the ECU ?

Issue resolved.

Naa Shoeb bhai. I didn't tinker at all with the bike although I wanted to disconnect the battery for reprogramming the ECU, but left it as it is.
Then I called Satyajit da to gather some inputs and he pointed out the accelerator cable as the cause. And guess what - he was right. It got jammed causing extra throttle pull as I explained above.

BTW, I'd got it replaced < 200 kms ago. Maybe it was not fit properly in the 1st place! And ya, that's extra oil from the chain.

I presume you ride a lot in Rain and/or park your bike in open and not in covered parking area....It is the " B " cable which mostly goes bad....Try applying plenty of grease on the twin cable mount, INSIDE the throttle grip,which will keep moisture away for some time at least.

Sir, actually I park my bike in my apartment's basement which is covered from all sides.
Also, I replaced both cables A and B just 12-13 days back.

Yes, but I do ride in rain.