Hii Guys...
As well are familiar with sub-standard quality of plastics on karizma (Fearing , Cowl Set etc)..
Can any1 suggest me a cheap alternative to getting these parts...I stay in navi mumbai..

There are alternative available in the market, but the paint quality on most of them will not be good. They fade in short time. The problem with Karizma's plastics is bad design. Plastic quality and paint quality is topnotch, but the joints are very feeble and break very easily when there is a fall, or they break if your ride on bad roads for extended periods (in 1 or 2 years).

I beg to differ on the highlighted part Sir. Its the poorest quality fibre parts in all of the bikes i have used. they crack at the drop of a hat. I have never used a feviquick or Fibre welding in any of my the bikes i have used earlier, in the same terrain that i have used the ZMA. On the ZMA, Feviquick/anabond is a standard constituent of my toolkit.
ituent
P.S: i have somehow felt that the older ZMA has a better quality fibre that the post 2006 ones(Based on experience of riding both).I may be wrong also .

If you read carefully, I said paint quality and the plastic quality is good. The problem is with the joints being very weak, they tend to break easily. If you have a fall or ride on rough roads most of the times, the breaking will be at the joints. The panels on my ZMA look very good and new, but the joints on the rear panels are broken. If they could design the joints to be strong, they last longer.

I have a side panel of my ZMA that I removed because the joints broken, in 2007. The panel was there beside my house till the last year. It was in rain and hot sun for more than four years, and believe it or not, the paint was as good as new.

Sounds more like a non lubed tappets....if you adjust AFR to 3.5~4 then you need not use the choke so much...try kicking the kick starter WITHOUT switching ON for 3 times, and then start and read if the sound is present...
1 and 3 watts Pilot LED lights are available on e-bay which will definitely give you good brightness...

Second that! Even I ve lost count of the number of those little 5 buck feviquick tubes I ve used till now for my ZMA.

Even at AFR 3.5, I have to use choke in the morning for starting the bike. And I will not use the choke for that long (that you have seen the video) generally. I just pull the choke, start the bike, 5-7 seconds on full choke, and then around 10 sec on half-choke. Otherwise the engine would die.

Regarding the non-lubed tappets, it was not there previously or I didn't observe this in any other ZMA. Thats what is puzzling me. I will use kick-start method as you mentioned tomorrow morning and see how it does. Will update tomorrow.

I have see those LED indicators on e-bay, but wasn't sure of good quality, so I didn't buy. I will buy if I see a quality product. And, my bike does't have any flickering of indicator lamp . Only the pilot lamps (LEDs) and neutral light dims when I apply brakes. This I feel is a purposefully done feature in ZMAs.

When I first fell, the joints of the front side cowls broke. Everything else was intact. The next time when I bought the new cowls, I have applied m-seal around the joints sparingly. And after that I had two falls (not crashes), but the joints were intact. I have been doing that since 4 years with excellent results. But, one can't apply m-seal for the plate joints in the rear cowls. They break very easily and can't be sealed with any adhesives. Except the plate joints, all other joints in my bike's cowls are strengthened with m-seal.

Adjust your Inlet tappet to correct gap of 0.1 and you will find the cold start problem is greatly reduced...The flickering of Neutral light and LED is because LEDs being solid state with no filament to heat and give light ,reacts instantly to changes in Voltage, while a normal Incandescent bulb will not...
Regarding the noise ,I had only made a guess, since even if I park my ZMA for a week i do not get it.....

Well, I will not bother about it as the bike is still going to 120 without issues. And its tolerating extended periods of touring too without any stress signs.

when my stunner completed some 9k on odo, I also started getting those metallic sound when the bike was cold started, but it was pretty low. When asked, everybody said that '' oil is in sump, it'll take some time to get into head'' so i didn't bothered much. Few days back at around 27k on odo I cleaned its oil strainer (which was pretty filthy) and noise went away . So I would suggest clean/replace all the oil filters (whichever applicable) if not done in the last 10k kms.

Clogged oil channel.

@Ravi sir, If its the same in your case, Dan was right.

I have cleaned centrifugal filter when I changed clutch assembly around 10k kms back. I don't think ZMA has oil strainer like Honda current engine blocks. Anyway I would open the clutch and check at my next oil change.

Today, I checked the spark plug again and the color has changed significantly, indicating a bit rich AFR than previous. I have changed two things, 1) Fuel from Shell, and 2) Tightened the spark plug fully as said by PSR sir.

I don't exactly know which of these two has changed the color of the spark plug significantly.




Color of the spark plug 10 days back.



NOTE: Pics are clicked in broad daylight with same camera in my phone.

When the plug is not tightened fully, then the heat accumulated cannot be dissipated into the cylinder head by the plug, and so becomes hotter than normal...still in the latest pic also the Crush washer at the bottom of the plug is not fully flat but has the rounded shape....you have to tighten it till it becomes flat...for reference check the pic of my plug posted earlier...

Yeah Ravi'Jee - this is the second time I am noticing the un-crushed ring on your plug (and how come it's become so rusty and corroded externally ?)

1) put a tiny tiny drop of clean engine oil on the plug thread (near the crush washer only) . Now thread it in gently by hand untill it seats fully as much is possible with hand turning force . Be careful that there is no cross-threading .
2) with plug wrench tighten it a further 1/2 turn . This is for a new plug and should compress the crush-washer correctly . If it's not a new plug or otherwise the ring is already compressed flat , it takes only 1/8 th to 1/4th of full turn to correctly torque the spark plug after finger tight .

Your AF mixture still appears too lean to me too ... there is also signs of overheating .
It would be nice if you can clean up the plug externally too with a wire brush .