I had the assumption that it was normal, cause the Iridium on my bike is anywhere around 25~35k old and works fine, but external part is completely corroded.

I have tightened the plug fully using all my strength. It was not going any further. Maybe the ring is very hard and that its not flattening any more. Anyway, I will try tightening it again and if its not tightening any further, I will change the plug. The plug is 12k kms old approximately. Regarding the rust, shouldn't that happen? being exposed to Sun, heat, and water?

The metal used to make the cylinder head and sparkplug may not be strong enough to withstand your full strength and what PSRji suggested may not be that kind of plug tightening you are doing.

ya.. One can say clogged. But it wasn't fully clogged, only ~25% and it was clogged with clutch friction material.

NO ! Don't use that much force to tighten plug .... you can easily strip the threads on the head that way . Tighten by counting the degree of turn . If after tightening half of full turn (after the plug is fully seated by bare hand alone) the ring is found uncompressed yet , then that compress-washer is clearly not doing it's job . Moreover at 12k it's time - So replace the plug , preferably with a OE one , and try again .
I always seat the plug finger tight by hand before using a wrench because that way I can feel if any crossthreading occurs and can quickly unscrew it and try again . It should screw in smoothly by hand without a single mis-feel or bind .... in one go .
Rust and corrosion occurs on the plug mainly from accumulated mud and dirt , which traps moisture there . I clean the external plug body and around the hole very well before I remove the plug everytime . That is because I'm scared that some of the dirt from there may fall into the bore while the plug is removed . This keeps my plugs reasonably clean externally too .
This is an around 1000km used & cleaned plug that I stow in my bike's toolkit for bad days .



Notice the compressed state of the washer on an "used" plug .
And this is my current in-use plug , just taken out now & untouched, incidentally today to measure resistance (something going on at the Splendor thread ) ...

Thanks for the pictorial depiction. I have exactly followed the method you described. It turned half the full turn while tightening. And still the ring on the sparkplug is not crushed very flat. I would change the spark plug and see.

is it possible to connect ZMR oil cooler to zma,if oil pump of zma and zmr are same.could it possible by adding cooler plate,clutch cover and oil hose of zmr to zma??

That and it adds faltu weight & rolling resistance on the front wheel too . But some offroaders do use rear specific tyres at front for the extra grip on soft or broken terrain .

Best front tyres are the stock zapper fs

No wonder! Only I can ride my bike, everyone else finds it hard to ride it, and a fellow Xbhpian even said that it was difficult to ride it even in a straight line.

Anyways thanks sir for the idea! From now on when people ask me why rear tire at front, am gonna tell em, am an ex off roading champion

Jokes apart, you're right when it comes to the extra grip, during one of our OFF ROAD G2G's(A first for me ) I was able to fare better than the rest of the monsters, Duke, RTR, P220S etc. And on this particular stretch(Achan Kovil Road) I topped out at 80~100k though another thing to mention is that, the extra grip only favors you if you're doing high speeds at low gears, the moment we upshift to 5th gear bike becomes wobbly again.


Amen!

PSR sir, for the past two days, I have been using kick starter to start the bike in the morning. After 3 initial kicks with ignition off, and then started the bike using kick with choke on (had to). The bike started smooth without the metallic sound from the head area. Need to open the clutch case and check for any clog in oil circulation. Any thoughts on what exactly could be the problem?

And there is a sharp metallic noise at idle, when the engine is hot. I have been noticing this since a long time. This sound comes from the piston/bore area. Is that a piston slap or valves touching piston? And this metal sound comes only when the engine is very hot. Any inputs?

And replaced the old G-power plug with new one. When I tightened it turned approximately half of full turn. And I couldn't tighten it any further. Guess I should not worry about the crushing/flattening of the ring.

Normal I guess. Myself, Vishak bro, Jerin bro, and Sriram sir if I remember correctly are facing the same.

Only happens when the bike is extremely hot.

Maybe u guys are using a low grade oil which is losing its viscosity at high temps, is ur oil 10w30?

I have been using 10w40 FS oil since more than 10000 kms. Just some 150 kms back I changed to Honda Throttle 10w30 Fully Synthetic. I don't think its the issue with oil. My bike is 63k kms old.