Some useful specifications and review of Karizma. Courtesy: Overdrive.

I used to refer that site to get top speed readings when my speedo was dead.

Actually veedol take off is 20W 40 and comes in white bottles and oil is red in color.
Veedol premium is 10W 30 and comes in black bottle and oil is golden in color.
If you are using 20W 40 then go for plus and those new owners who are using 10W 30 and are pissed with hero oil then go for premium. Every one has a bad opinion on 10W 30 oil, but once use the veedol premium 10W 30, then you will change your opinion.
But the best is veedol swift 10W 40 semi synthetic. Use it and next time, you will search for that oil.

I used Veedol Super Swift a couple of times 4 years back. It was retailing at 290 rupees at that time. It was really good, and is one of the best semisynth oils out there. Its not seen in the market these days.

Finally I've been able to fix this to a certain extent. I've got to admit, I want to see the guy who designed this cowl with so many elements and convinced the management that it can be fitted very easily onto the bike



The two knobs above the light fit into the frame below the odometer console. These were broken during the fall and were causing the excessive rattling and sound. I fixed them with m-seal and feviquick.



would you believe if I told you that the piece on the left is fixed to the cowl frame and the one on the right is fixed to another part (below pic). Initially i thought it must've got stuck, but realised that's the design


Now after fixing and all the rattling is less, but I can still see the frame vibrating when driving. It's not very much but the fact that we can fix this by ourselves gave me more satisfaction. I'm saddened by the fact that the SVC didn't even bother to remove the cowl and see what the issue was. They just used double-sided tape and charged rs.8/- each for a thumb-sized piece .

One word of caution do not touch the frame, headlamp with m-seal on your hands. It's very hard to remove. The headlight after finishing is as below:

Can you suggest me a best synthetic oil for ZMA of 20w40 grade. I have done a small analysis on identifying a good oil for ZMA's, and i have been using Gulf Pride 4T Plus for a quite sometime which is mineral and i'm good with it. I also need help in getting the best fork oil for my ZMA, I was told Motul fork oil has always been the best, (Motul products always do well). But i don't find it anywhere in chennai. Any other fork oil recommendations.? Help.!

Best synthetic oil for Karizma is (in my opinion/experience) Shell Ultra Helix 5w40, 800 rupees per liter. Shell oils and Honda engines gel very well than Motul.

Regarding fork oil, I don't have any experience with Motul fork oil, but it won't make any drastic wonders with the front fork. It might be marginally better, which you generally won't be able to notice, unless you are a very keen observer. You can close your eyes and go for Hero Fork oil (made by Idemitsu); its certainly better than other oils out there. While changing the fork oil, make sure same quantity of oil goes into each fork. Please refer to your manual for the amount of oil to be filled in each fork. More amount of oil you pour, more the hardness in the fork. I faintly remember the oil quantity to be between 145-150ml. Please crosscheck once with manual.

Does 5W40 grade engine oil suit ZMA.? I thought the recommended engine oil grade was 20W40 for ZMA's. Didn't you experience engine overheating, any gear shift, speeding problem.? Bike is about to cross 1800 Kms with Gulf. As Shell Ultra Helix doesn't exceed 40 @ 100 deg C, i will consider this and would definitely try and let you know. And i will have the front fork oil changed to Idemitsu, i believe Motul fork oil wouldn't make notable difference.

I have changed timing chain thrice and again sound is back. What I suppose to do ?

Did you change 'Cam Chain Tensioner'? Generally cam chain (timing chain) goes kaput when tensioner is faulty. You need to replace the tensioner first and not just the timing chain. Next time, you change the tensioner first.

hey i see you have a lot of knowledge regarding the sprocketing and gearing of the bike.. i have a karizma R 2008, i am planning to overgear my rear sprocket from 13/40T to 14/30T (or 13/30T) getting it custom made on the same .520 pitch. will it cause any damage or loss to my engine or will i gain speed and average? for me pick up is very important. or would you suggest me a better gearing for me please and thanks

i already received a reply from samarth 619 which has really helped me a lot..

just need one more thing to b clarified, if instead of doing all this on a .520P, if i overgear on a .428P with a better config like 14/40T or a 15/37T will it b a better option??

I'm sure someone will answer your query, but can you please share Samarth's inputs here if you don't mind?

Shell AX7 10w40 is a good oil to use....Shell HX series is for cars, and AX Advance series is for bikes..
For fork try Castrol, or Idemitsu Fork oil

Stock sprockets ratio – 13:40 = 3.0769.

Changing to 14:30 = 2.1429.

Changing to 13:30 = 2.3077.

Changing to 15:37 = 2.4667.

In all these cases, there is huge loss in torque and bike cannot move forward by itself even in first gear unless somebody pushes it throughout the ride.
14:40 = 2.8571. Increases the speed by about 7%. Loss of torque is at the same rate. This is almost the maximum allowable limit without much inconvenience and that too if most of the rides are through plain roads.

Karizma with its 17 bhp and 18.35 Nm torque is providing an excellent pick up and decent speed. Then why are you trying to spoil it instead of buying another high speed bike? Think about it twice or thrice before attempting to change the gear ratios.

Quotes of samarth's "13/30 will kill its acceleration by a huge margin, and yes, engine life will be reduced by this measure.Just get a 36 teeth rear sprocket from Pulsar 220 Dtsi, 37 from P220 DTS Fi old model or 38 teeth from P200 DTSi old model, depending on your overgearing needs.*Don't change the front sprocket."