Since '02 xBhp is different things to different people. From a close knit national community of bikers to India's only motorcycling lifestyle magazine and a place to make like-minded biker friends. Join us

Castrol Power 1

Always wear a helmet.

Our Partner

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • HI,

    I am new to this forum.I am riding Honda Unicorn for last 6 years(touring and commuting),now finally decided to have Karizma-R specially for touring.I am bit confused-
    Here in showroom there are two models of KArizma R, one is Hero Honda badge and other is Hero Moto Corp badge, someone suggesting me to go for Hero Honda badge Karizma as this model is having USHA piston kit which is better and overall engine refinement of Hero Honda badge Karizma R is better than current Hero Moto Corp KArizma R.Is it true?

    Comment


    • Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post
      HI,

      I am new to this forum.I am riding Honda Unicorn for last 6 years(touring and commuting),now finally decided to have Karizma-R specially for touring.I am bit confused-
      Here in showroom there are two models of KArizma R, one is Hero Honda badge and other is Hero Moto Corp badge, someone suggesting me to go for Hero Honda badge Karizma as this model is having USHA piston kit which is better and overall engine refinement of Hero Honda badge Karizma R is better than current Hero Moto Corp KArizma R.Is it true?
      Please go for the Hero Honda badged one mate. The Hero Moto one is probably 100% indegenised(locally made with local raw materials/ dies and other components used). And as most would agree, the more things get indegenised the more trouble the consumer is in. There may not be that much of a difference, but to be on the safer side grab the 'Hero Honda' one dude. You won't believe but if you ask some of the 'old Karizma' or 225 riders who have had the bike for a long time, like me, the overall make of the old one is better quality than the 'R' badged one like magwheels etc. get the picture?


      Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

      Comment


      • Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
        900ML on change and 1.2L on overhaul, its provided in the manual. But no issues with pouring 1L. While draining I just shake bike and drain as much oil as possible, then pour in 1L.

        During last oil change I accidentally poured in 1.3L and the oil was upto half the dipstick, so ran engine without dipstick and the excess oil was ejaculated within a few seconds, and after that when I checked level with dipstick it was at the correct top position in the marker.
        That's wat even I said bro, 1L is just fine. But I always pour a little more than 1L during every change for peace of mind.

        Regarding the bold part, didn't you risk dust particles entering the engine? Extra oil (200 ml in ur case) wasn't so dangerous IMO.
        Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
        Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!

        Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
        Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
        ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
        P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Sajith View Post
          pls help... i covered 1450 kms in my new zma oil changed twice. 1 in first service and second that 1400.Both oil is made by hero (tide water). after second oil change ride and gear chande become smooth. I ride on rpm @ 4k. only few time to 6. I think this oil lost the smoothness suddenly.Want to know about
          1.Which oil suitable for my R.(grade also)
          2.How much oil needed when draining.user guide prefer 900ml..and mech told that 1 ltr is needed
          3.Value of idle rpm screw?
          You should ideally continue to use a 10W30 grade mineral oil with JASO MA2 specifications uptill 5000 kilometres, preferably of some other brand like Motul, Valvoline, Elf, Gulf or Shell, whichever is available to you. After that you can switch to a Semi-synthetic 20W40 grade oil. I would suggest Motul.
          You can use 1liter oil. Drain old oil properly by tilting bike to left side while draining.
          As for idle screw, after you have ridden your bike for about 10-15 minutes, you should set it so the engine is steady at 1100 to 1300 RPM. Have fun!


          Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect
          Last edited by pixantz; 03-10-2013, 11:15 PM.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post
            That's wat even I said bro, 1L is just fine. But I always pour a little more than 1L during every change for peace of mind.

            Regarding the bold part, didn't you risk dust particles entering the engine? Extra oil (200 ml in ur case) wasn't so dangerous IMO.
            Karizma drain is only 900 ml (when drained on center stand). You can drain up to 1L if you bend the bike to both sides and allow to drain for long time. Where as for ZMR, the drain is 1.1L. So Divya Sharan, 1.1L in your bike is the correct amount to be filled.

            And 200ml of extra oil creates lots of pressure on internals and there are higher chances that the oil seals go kaput.
            HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
            Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

            Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

            Comment


            • in what rpm i can ride safe in my r now.
              Last edited by Sajith; 03-11-2013, 12:14 AM.

              Comment


              • has any one of you used this oil in ur Karizma? is it ok to use this grade of oil in our Bike?
                Retails for 280rs although its printed 355rs in it
                Attached Files
                Last edited by aarunn; 03-11-2013, 12:33 AM.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by aarunn View Post
                  has any one of you used this oil in ur Karizma? is it ok to use this grade of oil in our Bike?
                  Retails for 280rs although its printed 355rs in it
                  Looks like SS. If it's genuine valvoline then its awesome for Karizma. But if I was you I wouldn't use 20W50 unless my bike has completed at least 15000-20000 kilometers or if I drive like a maniac most of the time


                  Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post
                    Karizma drain is only 900 ml (when drained on center stand). You can drain up to 1L if you bend the bike to both sides and allow to drain for long time. Where as for ZMR, the drain is 1.1L. So Divya Sharan, 1.1L in your bike is the correct amount to be filled.

                    And 200ml of extra oil creates lots of pressure on internals and there are higher chances that the oil seals go kaput.
                    Didn't know this.

                    Originally posted by Sajith View Post
                    in what rpm i can ride safe in my r now.
                    1.5k done. 2 oil changes done. Hold your horses till 2k kms, but you can ride anywhere upto 3-8k RPM. Give short bursts and don't sustain high RPMs for long. Ride between 4-5k RPM normally. That's it.
                    Got a $5 head? Get a $5 helmet.
                    Because everyone who passes, isn't a martyr!

                    Bullet Service Guide CBR 250R Parts Manual Fz16 service manual - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1-...VFQmJzakk/view
                    Hero Moto Corp Bikes' Parts RE STD 350 Wiring Diagram (CI) Service Manual - Classic 350/500
                    ZMR parts - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-U...it?usp=sharing
                    P200NS Spares' prices - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...taGd5R2c#gid=0

                    Comment


                    • thanks...is there any drawbacks in filling the tyres with nitrogen please tell me the benefits too.
                      Last edited by Sajith; 03-11-2013, 06:10 PM.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post
                        Sad to hear that. After fixing the joint with feviquick, apply m-seal around the joint to reinforce. It would work like a wonder.
                        I've taken your advice on this I've removed the front fairing and took it apart. will post some pics. I'm using feviquick and M-seal to fix it and will see if it'll fix the rattling.
                        The two knobs on the headlight which lock in to the frame were broken and must've been causing the rattling.
                        ~ long roads winding through dense forests are what I seek..Solitude ~

                        My first travelogue => http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/tourer/2...st1090217.html
                        My first ownership review => http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...-1-3l-mjd.html

                        Comment


                        • Completed 300.8Kms
                          On extended rides of 100+kms at a stretch, oil is still doing its job on the engine, but when it comes to transmission the case is different, the shifts become butter smooth at lower revs and will be water smooth only at high revs i.e when doing a continuous downshift like 5~4~3~2 etc, and 5 will be butter smooth, but the rest will be water smooth cause the revs will be high by then due to the engine braking.
                          And even under the boiling sun in traffic bike doesnt heatup, normally when I get stuck in Chinnakada traffic while returning from college, my legs will be roast, but today nothing of that sort happened, and during extended rides the rpm was kept at 6~8k on highways and 4~5 in traffic, with a few halts at signals, and when I got back home and turned the engine off, the TAK TAK we get from exhaust was also very very low, normally when I keep high revs and halt then it would make lot of loud continuous and overlapping TAK's but today it was like a gentle TAK once in a few seconds.

                          Climbed a few steeps in final gear with pillion with revs around 3~4k and in between gave sharp bursts of acceleration to see if clutch would slip, but fortunately it didnt, though once engine knocked for a few seconds, which made me fee sad

                          In short positive results till now. Lets see what the future has in store for me.
                          Motorcycling Experience:
                          2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                          2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                          2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                          2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                          2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                          2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                          The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                          Adios Comrades!
                          A.P. 2018

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                            Completed 300.8Kms
                            On extended rides of 100+kms at a stretch, oil is still doing its job on the engine, but when it comes to transmission the case is different, the shifts become butter smooth at lower revs and will be water smooth only at high revs i.e when doing a continuous downshift like 5~4~3~2 etc, and 5 will be butter smooth, but the rest will be water smooth cause the revs will be high by then due to the engine braking.
                            And even under the boiling sun in traffic bike doesnt heatup, normally when I get stuck in Chinnakada traffic while returning from college, my legs will be roast, but today nothing of that sort happened, and during extended rides the rpm was kept at 6~8k on highways and 4~5 in traffic, with a few halts at signals, and when I got back home and turned the engine off, the TAK TAK we get from exhaust was also very very low, normally when I keep high revs and halt then it would make lot of loud continuous and overlapping TAK's but today it was like a gentle TAK once in a few seconds.

                            Climbed a few steeps in final gear with pillion with revs around 3~4k and in between gave sharp bursts of acceleration to see if clutch would slip, but fortunately it didnt, though once engine knocked for a few seconds, which made me fee sad

                            In short positive results till now. Lets see what the future has in store for me.
                            good to know about your positive response i will switch to 15w40 gulf duramax used in our ashok leyland trucks ,but after running-in.what is that TAK TAK sound comes when bikes engine are heated up??

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Ramborider View Post
                              what is that TAK TAK sound comes when bikes engine are heated up??
                              Thats the catcon cooling down, common in most bikes.
                              Motorcycling Experience:
                              2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                              2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                              2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                              2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                              2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                              2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                              The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                              Adios Comrades!
                              A.P. 2018

                              Comment


                              • Its not the catalytic converter but the steel shroud on the silencer expanding and shrinking at a different rate, remove it and there wont be any noise had exactly the same from my old CBZ and at that time I made round washers from leather and used them to secure the bolts and it worked

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X