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**shoeb2015** · 03-30-2013, 01:24 AM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Thank you all for the wishes and inputs. Today I have roamed entire city for sourcing the parts (2nd and 3rd gear, Primary gear, O rings, oil seals, all bearings in crank case (total 7, including crank shaft). I was literally pissed off when almost all the Hero Spares shop say no spares of karizma. I shouted and yelled at them for not keeping spares of Karizma that they have been selling the same bike for the past 10 years. I was able to get only oil seals kit and some o rings from Authorized Spares Centers. All the rest of the spares I was able to get from a local Automobile shop (lucky me).

All the engine parts cleaned thoroughly using almost 2.5L of petrol. Thanks to Kishore, a very hard-working mechanic.

My mechanic slipped out of the shop and came only in the evening. So assembling of the engine would takes place tomorrow morning. Eagerly waiting for that.

Did you try the shops at Ramkote ? The authorized parts distributor is also located there and if you have part numbers then they will even sell individual parts during non-peak hours.

Everything looks neat and organised,this is the way to go ! Do let us know the detailed break-up of parts and labor charges.

**ashwinprakas** · 03-30-2013, 10:18 AM

Originally posted by MAXzma View Post

Long term report of the Shell Rimula R3x..

Changed it last week only but did a 1800km ride after that through all sorts of terrain imaginable from beautiful four lane highways to off roads up a hill! One word to sum it up; BRILLIANT!!

One of the best oils I have ever used. Costs just Rs260 per litre. Engine was very responsive and smooth. The best part of it was how relaxed and responsive the engine was in constant high speed rides. Oil still looks good. Will be changing it though. To the same oil of course!

Longer rides with constant high speeds do bring out the best in Diesel engine oils, yesterday did a 800kms continuous trip with short breaks in between, through superb highways, shitty roads and abit of off roads, and yet the bike remained smooth and responsive.

The current one "Super HDB Turbo" am using is only available in 5L bottles so the next time I'll be going for Rimula R3x, cause its available for 250/- per liter, or better the Rimula R4 if its available in liter bottles.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

1 - Maybe probs in wiring or relay . The horn relay ,I think, will be rated from 20 to 30 amps . That's more than enough to honk continuously .
2 - I think wind tones are legit . Air horns use high volume expulsion of air to create sound . Come to Kannur , here all private buses and even some KSRTC buses have air horns which give out bollywood type music . It'll blast your ears off .
3 - Ashwinprakas has replied to it .

OK I forgot , the later ones has 6ah battery as standard . And what load did they lessen ? The full time running instrument panel lights ?
If the bike's fuse is blowing , check your wiring - especially your relay .
I don't check the thread daily now so I must've missed the G2G . Where is it ? Am quite busy now-a-days . Normally dont have time to even boot the computer . And the latest avatar of xbhp takes an eternity to load on my mob .
Guess I'll be busy for may be one more week .

I found the reason, the fuse box had loose contact, so for the time being gave direct to battery and its running fine.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Nice clear pics .

No reason for it to not work .
If you really want to experiment , you can do what I did . I upped the cc to 235 , but it takes some ( just a little bit

) work from a person who's knowledgeable .

@Acs sir, did your mech use the same tools for reboring and honing?

Originally posted by Shabeer Khan View Post

Hello guys, has any one here used Motul 7100, if so how did it perform

Yes, used for around 6k kms before draining, not worth the 750/-rs. Runs like crap for the first few hundred kms, then gets better, but still not worth it.

**NIGHTMARE** · 03-30-2013, 03:12 PM

@ashwinprakas How good is Mobil 0w40 full synthetic, this oil worth spending Rs1000

**Divya Sharan** · 03-30-2013, 06:14 PM

Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View Post

@ashwinprakas How good is Mobil 0w40 full synthetic, this oil worth spending Rs1000

Absolutely VFM for the balance of performance and mileage it provides. Costs 780 bucks in KA, 760 in WB as well as TN. Been using it for over 12k kms now, no issues.

**NIGHTMARE** · 03-30-2013, 06:18 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

Absolutely VFM for the balance of performance and mileage it provides. Costs 780 bucks in KA, 760 in WB as well as TN. Been using it for over 12k kms now, no issues.

How its under work 45 C in summer ? Still engine maintain the smoothness at that temperature. And how many km I can run this oil.

**Divya Sharan** · 03-30-2013, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View Post

How its under work 45 C in summer ? Still engine maintain the smoothness at that temperature. And how many km I can run this oil.

Well, that depends. I rode the bike with this oil during my stay in Chennai, which is hot ang humid. In crazy bumper to bumper traffic for over 2 hours (I was returning back from Yercaud to Chennai in the month of May) from Poonamalee to CMBT to Adyar to Thiruvanmiyur (Chennai folk know the bottlenecks in this route), I didn't face hard downshifts. But yes, the engine felt course. It got fine the next day.
Again, in moderate traffic (not bumper to bumper, but slow moving) the oil performs nicely and is a bliss on highways.

For best life out of the engine, I drain off the oil within 4500 kms.

**NIGHTMARE** · 03-30-2013, 06:36 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

Well, that depends. I rode the bike with this oil during my stay in Chennai, which is hot ang humid. In crazy bumper to bumper traffic for over 2 hours (I was returning back from Yercaud to Chennai in the month of May) from Poonamalee to CMBT to Adyar to Thiruvanmiyur (Chennai folk know the bottlenecks in this route), I didn't face hard downshifts. But yes, the engine felt course. It got fine the next day.
Again, in moderate traffic (not bumper to bumper, but slow moving) the oil performs nicely and is a bliss on highways.

For best life out of the engine, I drain off the oil within 4500 kms.

Well I was using castrol power 1 and change after 2500 km. As far I know the oil can be easily reach 10k km until oil does not evaporate.

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 06:55 PM

My bike is up and running. Beating is normal and smooth. Will post pics by night. :-)

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

**Divya Sharan** · 03-30-2013, 07:17 PM

Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View Post

Well I was using castrol power 1 and change after 2500 km. As far I know the oil can be easily reach 10k km until oil does not evaporate.

What was that? God save bikes that run 10k kms on the same oil, whatever make/grade/type!
Moreover, Mobil's 0w40 is not for bikes, its for 4 wheelers. I was talking about 10w40 and NOT 0w40.

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

My bike is up and running. Beating is normal and smooth. Will post pics by night. :-)

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

Waiting wid bated breath... Videojjjj too pleej!

**kb100** · 03-30-2013, 08:29 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Thank you all for the wishes and inputs. Today I have roamed entire city for sourcing the parts (2nd and 3rd gear, Primary gear, O rings, oil seals, all bearings in crank case (total 7, including crank shaft). I was literally pissed off when almost all the Hero Spares shop say no spares of karizma. I shouted and yelled at them for not keeping spares of Karizma that they have been selling the same bike for the past 10 years. I was able to get only oil seals kit and some o rings from Authorized Spares Centers. All the rest of the spares I was able to get from a local Automobile shop (lucky me).

All the engine parts cleaned thoroughly using almost 2.5L of petrol. Thanks to Kishore, a very hard-working mechanic.

Pictures of the cylinder surface after honing

A close-up of the cylinder surface highlighting the honing marks (highlighted due to direct sunlight)

Valves after lapping is done.

My mechanic slipped out of the shop and came only in the evening. So assembling of the engine would takes place tomorrow morning. Eagerly waiting for that.

those doesnt look like honing marks , honing marks are not concentric , they criss cross each other, it looks as if your bore has been turned on a lathe

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 08:55 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

those doesnt look like honing marks , honing marks are not concentric , they criss cross each other, it looks as if your bore has been turned on a lathe

You are right, those lines are from lathe. The crisscross lines from honing are visible to eye only. I was not able to catch them with my mobile camera. Those lines from lathe are highlighted more because of direct evening light reflection.

This is an experiment. There is no guarantee that the bore is excellent. I have to wait for at least 3k kms and see if its set right.

**krish2778** · 03-30-2013, 08:58 PM

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

those doesnt look like honing marks , honing marks are not concentric , they criss cross each other, it looks as if your bore has been turned on a lathe

Agreed. This is how a honed one should look like.

http://www.dansmc.com/Hone_cyl_lower_cyl.JPG

PIC courtesy :Dan's Motorcycle "Honing Your Cylinder"

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 09:44 PM

@KB100 and Krish, you can see the honing marks here.

**krish2778** · 03-30-2013, 09:59 PM

Hope you have a successful build. I do have one query though, why hone and re-bore at the same time ? If we are going for a re-bore, do we really need the honing ?I'm really new to this, so just very curious.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

@KB100 and Krish, you can see the honing marks here.

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 10:19 PM

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

Hope you have a successful build. I do have one query though, why hone and re-bore at the same time ? If we are going for a re-bore, do we really need the honing ?I'm really new to this, so just very curious.

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Here is my understanding. Honing is basically smoothening the surface of the cylinder. When you cut the Cylinder wall on lathe machine, the surface will not be smooth. Honing will even out the lathe marks and makes a smooth wall of the cylinder. Honing is a must to set in the piston rings against cylinder wall. If you check my photos on previous page, you can see the cylinder wall after its cut on lathe; its appears crude.

The crisscross finishing with honing will assist in proper mating of piston rings with the cylinder wall.

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