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**s1d** · 03-30-2013, 10:25 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

The crisscross finishing with honing will assist in proper mating of piston rings with the cylinder wall.

and also aid in good lubrication/oil retention..
btw.. how were the clearances ? any measurements for us to look at ? why did you go for the .50 size directly, why not .25 ? did you not get the .25 size piston kit?
waiting for the rest of the details to be uploaded..

**Shabeer Khan** · 03-30-2013, 10:44 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Longer rides with constant high speeds do bring out the best in Diesel engine oils, yesterday did a 800kms continuous trip with short breaks in between, through superb highways, shitty roads and abit of off roads, and yet the bike remained smooth and responsive.

The current one "Super HDB Turbo" am using is only available in 5L bottles so the next time I'll be going for Rimula R3x, cause its available for 250/- per liter, or better the Rimula R4 if its available in liter bottles.

I found the reason, the fuse box had loose contact, so for the time being gave direct to battery and its running fine.

@Acs sir, did your mech use the same tools for reboring and honing?

Yes, used for around 6k kms before draining, not worth the 750/-rs. Runs like crap for the first few hundred kms, then gets better, but still not worth it.

Thanks Aswin, then next time I will go for shell Rimula

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 10:48 PM

Originally posted by s1d View Post

and also aid in good lubrication/oil retention..
btw.. how were the clearances ? any measurements for us to look at ? why did you go for the .50 size directly, why not .25 ? did you not get the .25 size piston kit?
waiting for the rest of the details to be uploaded..

You are right. Honing will assist in good lubrication due to oil retention in the tiny grooves between the honing lines.

I couldn't check any clearances as I don't have any instrument to measure. I have taken some pics showing the piston-cylinder clearance and piston rings-cylinder clearance.

Regarding going directly for 2nd over size, I wantedly went for it to gain some power. All OS pistons are available here.

**s1d** · 03-30-2013, 10:55 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

You are right. Honing will assist in good lubrication due to oil retention in the tiny grooves between the honing lines.

I couldn't check any clearances as I don't have any instrument to measure. I have taken some pics showing the piston-cylinder clearance and piston rings-cylinder clearance.

Regarding going directly for 2nd over size, I wantedly went for it to gain some power. All OS pistons are available here.

umm...ok (and let me know were you picked up the piston kit and the lathe workshop address) and try getting a compression test done after a few days of running and let us know the reading. (recommended vs actual)

**krish2778** · 03-30-2013, 11:01 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Here is my understanding. Honing is basically smoothening the surface of the cylinder. When you cut the Cylinder wall on lathe machine, the surface will not be smooth. Honing will even out the lathe marks and makes a smooth wall of the cylinder. Honing is a must to set in the piston rings against cylinder wall. If you check my photos on previous page, you can see the cylinder wall after its cut on lathe; its appears crude.

The crisscross finishing with honing will assist in proper mating of piston rings with the cylinder wall.

So is a new cylinder also honed when it comes as a spare, or do we have to do it separately ??

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 11:07 PM

Originally posted by s1d View Post

umm...ok (and let me know were you picked up the piston kit and the lathe workshop address) and try getting a compression test done after a few days of running and let us know the reading. (recommended vs actual)

Yes, compression test I will do after I complete 300-500 kms, and then post the readings.

Originally posted by krish2778 View Post

So is a new cylinder also honed when it comes as a spare, or do we have to do it separately ??

Cheers
Ride Safe
Krishna

Yes, the new bore kit comes with honing, may be with honing done in more precise way.

**NIGHTMARE** · 03-30-2013, 11:10 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Yes, compression test I will do after I complete 300-500 kms, and then post the readings.

Yes, the new bore kit comes with honing, may be with honing done in more precise way.

When you done please post a guide step wise. It really help others.

**ravi@17bhp** · 03-30-2013, 11:24 PM

Assembling pics from today.

The gold color plate is responsible for the neutral light indicator. If that goes kaput, the neutral indicator light on the console dies. Its just 10 rupees, but to replace it, you need to dismantle the entire engine.

You can see Crank shaft, main shaft, counter shaft, gear selector, and all gears in this pic.

Piston in the cylinder, a bottom view.

Top view.

You can see top piston ring end gap.

Crank build almost complete.

Piston connected to conrod.

Piston going into cylinder.

Bore-piston set up done, top view.

A peep through cam tensioner hole. You can see a groove on the cam chain guide where the tensione rests.

A peep through tappet hole.

Whole cam chain view. You can see both ends of cam chain. You can see the cam chain guides too.

Finally, engine sits in the frame.

And the bike is ready.

Oil leaks are the big headache after the engine rebuild. So far, no leaks noticed. Hope there won't be any in future.

**krish2778** · 03-30-2013, 11:44 PM

Great post. Complete engine anatomy...!!!!

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Assembling pics from today.
Oil leaks are the big headache after the engine rebuild. So far, no leaks noticed. Hope there won't be any in future.

**acs1207** · 03-31-2013, 10:11 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

(1)I found the reason, the fuse box had loose contact, so for the time being gave direct to battery and its running fine.

(2)@Acs sir, did your mech use the same tools for reboring and honing?

1- You risk damaging the wiring if you run without the fuse .
2- Must have . It came from Coimbatore in the bored

condition . Honing was done here , but I delivered it and picked it after the work was done , I didn't stay there to see it done . Those guys does engine works of every vehicle .

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

My bike is up and running. Beating is normal and smooth. Will post pics by night. :-)

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

Don't forget to maintain the running-in speeds .

Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View Post

Well I was using castrol power 1 and change after 2500 km. As far I know the oil can be easily reach 10k km until oil does not evaporate.

wOw !!

10k kms !!!

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

You are right, those lines are from lathe. The crisscross lines from honing are visible to eye only. I was not able to catch them with my mobile camera. Those lines from lathe are highlighted more because of direct evening light reflection.

This is an experiment. There is no guarantee that the bore is excellent. I have to wait for at least 3k kms and see if its set right.

I think you'd get an idea within the first 1000 - 1500 kms .

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

And the bike is ready.

Oil leaks are the big headache after the engine rebuild. So far, no leaks noticed. Hope there won't be any in future.

Looks good . Hope it rides good too .

Now your ride will be 226.57 cc .

**nithin2767** · 03-31-2013, 10:25 AM

I just lost my bike key yesterday. Is it possible to get a new key with the key code from hh.

**whymail** · 03-31-2013, 10:42 AM

@nitin: Certainly it is... most key inserts have a code / numerals engraved... perhaps check if urs has one & the hh folks can get a new pair issued...
A quicker resolve would be u asking the hh service to replace all the locks with new ones (& hence new keys too)
Best wishes...

**psr** · 03-31-2013, 06:21 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

And the bike is ready.

Oil leaks are the big headache after the engine rebuild. So far, no leaks noticed. Hope there won't be any in future.

@ Ravi a complete report on the ZMA engine rebuild with fabulous photos...Excellent ,Patient reporting...

Your Posts will now become the ready reference and , you will be the knowledgeable person to guide members here..on engines....

Fantastic Detailed Work
Wish you Good Luck Always...

**s1d** · 04-01-2013, 01:49 PM

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Oil leaks are the big headache after the engine rebuild. So far, no leaks noticed. Hope there won't be any in future.

Was any gasket sealant used (like anabond etc..) ? In my experience the gasket sealant does a great job. If unfortunately you end up with leaks, try going in with a gasket sealant along with a new gasket.

umm.. and also the usha piston has this 'us ha' marking on the piston, and i see on one side(and on top) its inscribed KRY (wonder if it means Karizma, because your bore seems to be from sunbeam and when i looked up their site http://www.sunbeamauto.com/product-detail.php?id=82 they have a KRY 'series/model' piston. So wondering if KRY is a generic 'short-form' for karizma or is your piston a sunbeam packed in usha box

)
hopefully the other side of the piston had 'us ha' marking on it

Also please post the pic of the old piston (hopefully you have not 'tampered' with it), would like to see how it actually looks after so many kms. pls post the price break up of spares and labor.

I know i am asking too many questions..

**ravi@17bhp** · 04-01-2013, 04:55 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

@ Ravi a complete report on the ZMA engine rebuild with fabulous photos...Excellent ,Patient reporting...

Your Posts will now become the ready reference and , you will be the knowledgeable person to guide members here..on engines....

Fantastic Detailed Work
Wish you Good Luck Always...

Sir, it was all possible because of your valuable guidance, without which I couldn't have dared to proceed with the rebore. And, I should also thank my two mechanics for doing excellent job. It was a major learning incident for me; got to know a lot about the engine.

And sir I would like to know you opinion of the rebore after seeing the pic of top piston ring in the bore? Does the piston ring free-ends gap appear normal?

Originally posted by s1d View Post

Was any gasket sealant used (like anabond etc..) ? In my experience the gasket sealant does a great job. If unfortunately you end up with leaks, try going in with a gasket sealant along with a new gasket.

umm.. and also the usha piston has this 'us ha' marking on the piston, and i see on one side(and on top) its inscribed KRY (wonder if it means Karizma, because your bore seems to be from sunbeam and when i looked up their site SUNBEAM AUTO PVT. LTD. they have a KRY 'series/model' piston. So wondering if KRY is a generic 'short-form' for karizma or is your piston a sunbeam packed in usha box

)
hopefully the other side of the piston had 'us ha' marking on it

Also please post the pic of the old piston (hopefully you have not 'tampered' with it), would like to see how it actually looks after so many kms. pls post the price break up of spares and labor.

I know i am asking too many questions..

Yes Sid, Anabond was used with all new gaskets. So far no leaks, so I guess it would be fine.

KRY is the code used by Hero Honda for Karizma. The new piston I got is USHA only. The old piston is made by 'SAL'. The bore is printed with 'Sunbeam'. There is no way I would be duped by my mechanic regarding spares, as I was the one who bought all the spares. I myself got the sealed pack of USHA piston. And I was with my bike at each and every step of rebuild.

Here is the picture of the old piston. The rings on it are relatively new as I changed them around 13k kms back.

Regarding prices of the spares, I need some time to compile everything. I would post that once its done.

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