Aswin, I am not using any relay or twin windtone horns now. In 2008, I fitted twin windtones at a mod shop in Koti, Hyderabad. I was not aware at that time that they had cut the main wiring to accommodate relay and horns. Later after a year, I have removed everything at SVC and at that time I got to know that main wiring was cut. I asked them to seal it properly. The seal came off in the recent time and yesterday electricals gone kaput because of this. Today I cleaned everything with petrol and sealed it properly. Even cleaned the Bosch battery contacts with petrol and cleaned it thoroughly. Viola, all the problem solved. Previously, when I apply brakes, the pilot lamps and neutral indicator light used to dim. Now its gone completely. Also, with 55w headlight, pilots, and indicators, the horn doesn't honk properly (when under 3k rpm). Now With all the lights up, the horn is working well without any weakness. So, the Bosch battery doing amazing work, still strong after 4 years.

Here is the picture of cut wire. Its under the tank. Observe the black wire that is cut.




And, as I opened everything, thought of changing the lockset (I had only a DUPLICATE key, which was not cut properly and is very blunt) as I lost original keys (Price INR 930).

^^^
Could've gone for ZMR ones, they look dope
In ZMA ones the key eye breaks off easily.

What difference is there between ZMR's and ZMA? I see the same for both, except the key design. The eye is different for both. But, I have seen the H logo from ZMR's key coming off easily. I have the checked the R eye on the key, and its very strong. It doesn't appear to come so easily. If it comes off, I will put feviquick and fix it.

What happened? Your's broken? You can get it welded.

I hope this pic answers your question.


He's got a Uni, and wants a sporty riding position.

Lol. I have checked both the keys, and it appears its well molded and doesn't look like it would come off. I have been using the R key for more than 3 years and its still strong. May be yours is a one-of case.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

No bro, in my uni the foot pegs are too much in front, so my legs are forward and my back isn't straight while riding so I want the foot pegs back and to do that I need those parts from karizma, brand new ones are 1500 each

CORRECTION: The pilot lamps and neutral light are still dimming when applied brake. Everything else is correct. The tail lamp wiring under the seat was loose and the brake lights were not working when I checked the dimness of neutral light. I connected the wiring under the seat properly and now if I apply brakes, the neutral light and pilot lamps dim.

Conclusion: I don't know about the new Karizmas, but the dimming of neutral light and pilot lamps exist in all ZMAs when applied brakes. It means, when the 21w break light glows, the neutral light is dimming. Its not a weak battery or electrical issue, as with just battery, all the lights glow without any dimming. My conclusion is, the dimming of neutral light is designed purposefully in Karizma to indicate the brake lights failure. If the neutral light dims, brake lights working properly. If the brake lights don't glow due to failure, then the neutral light doesn't dim. The dimming is just an indication of functioning of break lights. I observed this dimming even with blinkers.

And that is my logical conclusion. Of course, I can be wrong.

I think your observation is correct. I never noticed if neutral light dimmed on my bike, but the indicator light dims lightly and flickers when the blinkers are put to use.

Hi All,

I feel top speed is good enough to me, its reaches 135 to 140km/hr. But my only worry here is, by the time it reaches 135km/hr the rmp will be @ 9000. Will this create a problem to engine. I tried to riding in above 8000rpm in third and fourth gear since it make nice sound @ 8500rpm , but it will be for short time. But the same while in fifth gear makes difference right, since i dont have sixth gear to shift.

So please guys, clear this issue from my mind. when each time i go above @8000rpm, my heart says to reduce the accelerator. Because i love my bike more than anything in the world.

Thanks in advance.

So you better not ride at speeds more than 100-105 kmph for extended durations.
Remember the 80% rule. Never make the engine work more than 80% its max limit, and it'll last you for years!

Dimming and flickering of indicator light, it doesn't happen in my bike. Are you sure there is flickering and dimming of indicator lamp in your bike?

The metal shavings were not because of the Sprinta oil. I have been using this oil for many years, and many of my friends have been using it too. Never ever we noticed any metal shavings. How could an engine oil cause metal to shave? This oil may not be equal to a double-ester FS oils from main brands, but its a very decent oil and the results as I experienced were better than a regular mineral oil. Of course, this will not be in the market anymore. So we can stop talking about this.

Ok, I guess I didn't explain myself clearly.

The indicator bulb lights with normal intensity. It doesn't flicker. It blinks as usual.
I was talking about the indicator lamp on the console. When I switch on the indicator, that console lamp flickers for the first few seconds; i.e, it doesn't glow fully at once, but in 2-3 seconds its stops flickering and glows fully bright (green color arrows <---- ----> )

I feel this is useful in daytime when you can't see the indicators yourself. I checked this on one more ZMR. Happens on it as well.

Morning I recorded the metallic sound that comes from my bike when started in the morning (on cold starts). I pulled choke so that the bike starts. The sound is there for 2-3 seconds and the goes away, as you can notice. PSR sir and experts, any idea what that could be?



I was talking about the indicator lamp on the console only. There is no flickering or dimming of those lights in my bike.