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**pixantz** · 09-17-2013, 10:00 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post

Here is my White lightning...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]116933[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]116934[/ATTACH]

Congo bro. Enjoy your honeymoon

Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

**sunny_** · 09-17-2013, 10:49 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by psr View Post

There is a Gasket between the Auto Chain Tensioner and the Cylinder head...change it with a new one, or use any liquid Gasket between the tensioner and the head...

Alright, and I forgot to mention that while fixing the new cam holder, he used two new NON ORIGINAL (size 10) screws to tighten it, and the middle one was taken from the older holder. Can that be a probable reason as well?

**ravi@17bhp** · 09-18-2013, 12:00 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Alright, and I forgot to mention that while fixing the new cam holder, he used two new NON ORIGINAL (size 10) screws to tighten it, and the middle one was taken from the older holder. Can that be a probable reason as well?

Same thing happened to me last time when I changed the cam chain lifter. There are two screws with Allen Key sockets. One of the screw head was gone and it was replaced with another screw, but oil was continuously leaking. The leakage stopped only after I sourced the original screw. I couldn't source the original screws at service station, and I was lucky to get them from a scrap Karizma.

The middle star screw is not a problem.

**Shabeer Khan** · 09-18-2013, 01:11 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Well you have to fit it and ride it through some true Indian road, cant explain how you have to see it to believe

Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post

How a crash guard can hit front mudguard? Did you mean engine guard?

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Hero is offering 5 years warranty on ZMA, is it applicable on electrical parts also like speedometer console, self starter motor etc.Showroom guys dont know anything about warranty.Please let me know on what parts of ZMA 5 years warranty is applicable?

**ankit.traveller** · 09-18-2013, 12:59 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

A concern-

Little bit of engine oil dripping from gear shifter lever where it connects to gearbox.Is it normal?
Attached snaps..

**pixantz** · 09-18-2013, 01:44 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post

A concern-

Little bit of engine oil dripping from gear shifter lever where it connects to gearbox.Is it normal?
Attached snaps..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117138[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117139[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]117140[/ATTACH]

Mostly it is the oil which splshes from the chain and drips from here. So it seems like its the gear shifter oil seal but actually its not.....

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**Vijay1911** · 09-18-2013, 05:32 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I think I found my bike's problem. It is not the RR Unit, Brake Swithes... Still few tests to be done and it looks like the culprit is Wire Harness.
Particularly, it looks like the brake wire shorted somewhere. It has shorted(thats what I can say by performing Continuity Test, done with the help of Multimeter).
Will post the Images soon.

**ravi@17bhp** · 09-18-2013, 07:34 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=51034]ankit.traveller[/MENTION], as pointed by Pixantz, its mostly the chain lube oil dripping from the front sprocket area. If its leaking from the gear lever shaft, then the culprit is the oil seal around the shaft (you can notice the round rubber seal around the gear lever shaft).

**Vijay1911** · 09-18-2013, 08:58 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The winkers are not flashing. Looks like my tests are hurting my bike! Can anyone tell me where is that flasher is located, which helps in flashing?
BTW my Winker's are not flashing, they are glowing constantly. Not working as an indicator/winker should work.

Is it the component that is located near Air Filter box?

Attached Files

**sinnerz2000** · 09-18-2013, 09:23 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by Vijay1911 View Post

The winkers are not flashing. Looks like my tests are hurting my bike! Can anyone tell me where is that flasher is located, which helps in flashing?
BTW my Winker's are not flashing, they are glowing constantly. Not working as an indicator/winker should work.

Is it the component that is located near Air Filter box?

Yes its that one and its called a blinker

Sent from my K-touch_w650_592zn using Tapatalk 4

**Vijay1911** · 09-18-2013, 09:23 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

After performing Continuity Test, I thought the Harness Wire is the culprit. This was my first conclusion.

Now, Calling one of my friend for help, we found something new and confusing. We again checked the Continuity test of Brake wire and it was looking culprit.
But, we though to check the CDI and RR too. So, we did.
On removing CDI unit(completely disconnected from bike), and pressing the front brake lever and rear brake lever, the electrical did not went down.I was surprised. Then came to conclusion that maybe Harness wire is not the culprit, Maybe!

I tried to start the engine without connecting CDI, and I failed to start the engine once.
Then I disconnected the RR unit, to check the discharging of battery. There was drop of voltage from 13.00V to 12.69V. Nothing much. Also, I have almost taken mostly all electrical components off the bike. Hence there is hardly any load on bike. Hence, discharging is difficult.

The image below show no load on bike(electrical as well as fibre

). I wanted my to be completey on electrical. Main aim was to find the electrical fault/failure.

Coming to another conclusion, i.e.
1. Without removing CDI and RR units, on applying brakes, the whole electrical system of the bike goes down.
2. On completely only removing CDI unit, then applying the brakes, the electricals does not goes off. RR unit is still connected. But the bike will not start.

Is the CDI unit culprit? any suggestions? Help needed. TIA

UPDATE:

Its has started blowing the fuse. No use of removing CDI & RR unit. Bloody hell.

**sibun** · 09-18-2013, 09:38 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by Vijay1911 View Post

After performing Continuity Test, I thought the Harness Wire is the culprit. This was my first conclusion.Now, Calling one of my friend for help, we found something new and confusing. We again checked the Continuity test of Brake wire and it was looking culprit. But, we though to check the CDI and RR too. So, we did. On removing CDI unit(completely disconnected from bike), and pressing the front brake lever and rear brake lever, the electrical did not went down.I was surprised. Then came to conclusion that maybe Harness wire is not the culprit, Maybe!I tried to start the engine without connecting CDI, and I failed to start the engine once. Then I disconnected the RR unit, to check the discharging of battery. There was drop of voltage from 13.00V to 12.69V. Nothing much. Also, I have almost taken mostly all electrical components off the bike. Hence there is hardly any load on bike. Hence, discharging is difficult.The image below show no load on bike(electrical as well as fibre

). I wanted my to be completey on electrical. Main aim was to find the electrical fault/failure.[ATTACH=CONFIG]117239[/ATTACH]Coming to another conclusion, i.e. 1. Without removing CDI and RR units, on applying brakes, the whole electrical system of the bike goes down.2. On completely only removing CDI unit, then applying the brakes, the electricals does not goes off. RR unit is still connected. But the bike will not start.Is the CDI unit culprit? any suggestions? Help needed. TIA

The CDI is not the culprit. Without bike will never start.When you fit CDI fuse is blowing. So that means on fitting CDI the circuit is getting complete and thus shorting is happening.So we have to check the connections coming to CDI. Remember yours is DC CDI. So check the following:-1. Supply wire to CDI- DC CDI so will be from battery. Trace from Cdi coupler to source.2. Pulse coil- Trace the pulse coil from CDI coupler till the coil base and see if it is grounding.3. Tachometer connection- There will be tachometer supply signal which supplies signal to tachometer. Trace that wire from tachometer till meter console. In one Hoodibaba a mechanic was completely pissed as bike will misfire at regular interval and no amount of investigation cured it. Then my retailer friend one day called me and we went to see that bike. One opening the meter console it was seen that the wire was rubbing with metal part which was grounding the current.4. Check the output of CDI to power coil.5. Another wire will be there which grounds the CDI, check that if it is coming in contact with any other positive lines.

**ankit.traveller** · 09-18-2013, 09:45 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by pixantz View Post

Mostly it is the oil which splshes from the chain and drips from here. So it seems like its the gear shifter oil seal but actually its not.....

Sent from my iPhone using xBhp Connect

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

@ankit.traveller, as pointed by Pixantz, its mostly the chain lube oil dripping from the front sprocket area. If its leaking from the gear lever shaft, then the culprit is the oil seal around the shaft (you can notice the round rubber seal around the gear lever shaft).

Today went to dealer for this oil dripping issue, mechanic told that oil is dripping from chain , oilseal is fine.Attached here is snap of floor with oil stains.

**shoeb2015** · 09-18-2013, 10:06 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by Vijay1911 View Post

Coming to another conclusion, i.e.
1. Without removing CDI and RR units, on applying brakes, the whole electrical system of the bike goes down.
2. On completely only removing CDI unit, then applying the brakes, the electricals does not goes off. RR unit is still connected. But the bike will not start.
Is the CDI unit culprit? any suggestions? Help needed. TIA

I haven't seen Karizma's electricals in person but let me try.
CDI and RR can't be related to this issue. CDI is needed for the bike to start.

Please follow in the following sequence :
Remove both the tail lamp bulbs and check if the fuse blows
then
Remove the tail lamp connector and check if the fuse blows ,

With the bulb removed and ignition turned ON, using a DMM-set to DC volts, ground the black color lead of the DMM to -ve terminal of battery, now probe the two wires of the brake switch's connector one by one . Either of them will show power, remember it.
Now set the DMM to continuity and probe the other wire, it shouldn't show any continuity as the bulb has been removed. If it shows continuity then we have a short somewhere.

Follow the wire from the switch and inspect if it is damaged/pinched/short to ground.
I am suspecting the wire from the front brake switch to the split connector which receives power from both the front and rear brake switch .

Again, I don't have any experience with Karizma's electricals but still sharing my view as might help you.

**Vijay1911** · 09-18-2013, 10:38 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by sinnerz2000 View Post

Yes its that one and its called a blinker

Sent from my K-touch_w650_592zn using Tapatalk 4

Thank You Buddy

Originally posted by sibun View Post

The CDI is not the culprit. Without bike will never start.When you fit CDI fuse is blowing. So that means on fitting CDI the circuit is getting complete and thus shorting is happening.So we have to check the connections coming to CDI. Remember yours is DC CDI. So check the following:-1. Supply wire to CDI- DC CDI so will be from battery. Trace from Cdi coupler to source.2. Pulse coil- Trace the pulse coil from CDI coupler till the coil base and see if it is grounding.3. Tachometer connection- There will be tachometer supply signal which supplies signal to tachometer. Trace that wire from tachometer till meter console. In one Hoodibaba a mechanic was completely pissed as bike will misfire at regular interval and no amount of investigation cured it. Then my retailer friend one day called me and we went to see that bike. One opening the meter console it was seen that the wire was rubbing with metal part which was grounding the current.4. Check the output of CDI to power coil.5. Another wire will be there which grounds the CDI, check that if it is coming in contact with any other positive lines.

Thanks for the suggestion. Bike it suddenly is running on AC. Looks like RR unit is gone. And bike hardly starts. Maybe CDI unit is also gone. And the Wire harness is also looking like culprit as I said. Will head for ASC tommorow morning.

Originally posted by shoeb2015 View Post

I haven't seen Karizma's electricals in person but let me try.
CDI and RR can't be related to this issue. CDI is needed for the bike to start.

Please follow in the following sequence :
Remove both the tail lamp bulbs and check if the fuse blows
then
Remove the tail lamp connector and check if the fuse blows ,

With the bulb removed and ignition turned ON, using a DMM-set to DC volts, ground the black color lead of the DMM to -ve terminal of battery, now probe the two wires of the brake switch's connector one by one . Either of them will show power, remember it.
Now set the DMM to continuity and probe the other wire, it shouldn't show any continuity as the bulb has been removed. If it shows continuity then we have a short somewhere.

Follow the wire from the switch and inspect if it is damaged/pinched/short to ground.
I am suspecting the wire from the front brake switch to the split connector which receives power from both the front and rear brake switch .

Again, I don't have any experience with Karizma's electricals but still sharing my view as might help you.

Even I didnt have experience with ZMA's Electricals. Its gone totally down. And my bike is in worst condition right now, electrically. Will go to ASC tommorow. Hope they will help me out. Thanks for the comments.

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