Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Bro, please go through the owner's manual once. ZMA's original oil grade was 20w40 and for god forsaken reasons was changed in late 2008 to 10w30. Hence you can rest assured and use xxW30 or xxW40 oils without any worrying.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

in mineral oils the most suited for karizma as stated by many members here is gulf pride. If u want semi synthetic u can go for shell ax7.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thankyou Divya. I have read the manual but would anyday trust the info here instead of the manual, thus was discussing.

Roger that Sir.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I checked the Horn and its connections. They all are good. Then I headed for RR unit. It was getting SUPER HOT with even 5 mins rides. Looks like its the culprit for blowing my fuse. What should I do now? Replace the Old RR unit with new one or try to get better heat sink for it?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Both - check the DIY as to what you should do regarding a heatsink. Since it keeps blowing fuses, it's already failing.
Just to make sure first, and not be stuck with a 1700+Rs item, try riding with the RR disconnected (there will be an amount of battery drain as it won't be charged). If the fuses still blow, the issue is something else.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Mine is 2006 Karizma. The RR unit has always been super hot for the last 7 years. No fuse issue or no electrical issue. Before replacing RR unit, look for any other issue.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Will do that. And Update the situation here.

Sure. On my way to finding the issue.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Or you can try "Honda throttle" engine oil, have been running on it and it does it job really good in Krizma

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Spot on ravi. The RR unit normally does get quite hot and thats the reason it has a heat sink in the first place. And as far as we all know Honda, the size of the heat sink is adequate to take on almost all types of working conditions. Fuses blowing because of RR units are an extremely rare situation. Normal symptoms of RR failure are much more vague, like stalling, hiccuping, bike losing performance/acceleration etc varying from bike to bike mostly occuring after the bike has been ridden for some kilometers. The symptoms normally are hightened during night time when headlights are on which puts more load on the unit. Just my four cents....


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The electrical system is mainly (1)the wiring harness, which may have gotten pinched/severed some place hence causing a short, and (2)all the components connected to each other through the harness like bulbs, Switches, meters, horns, relays, magneto coil, RR unit, CDI unit, holders, etc.
After ruling out the wiring harness you may go further by checking the most probable culprits like front brake switch, number plate bulb, horn unit/s, horn relay, tail lamp bulbs and holders. All the best.


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

If you're interested i can send you a few pics which i've collected of Malcom's bikes.
Whatsapp me at 9995541606

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Oil experience.

Gulf Pride 20W40 is a good option for the price, but after you go through a few other options you'll realise that it's abit over rated.

Motul oils, I've tried their mineral, semi synth and fully synth oils, they're expensive and don't work we'll with the ZMA. While using the 7100 I just wanted to change the oil ASAP, but kept on riding cause I paid a premium for it.

Yamalube Mineral, though hated by Yamaha owners, it performs well on the ZMA inspite of being 20W40 it's as smooth as the stock oil.

Valvoline, nothing to say, not good, not bad.

Petronas, it's overrated here. Cause on draining after 4~6k I found metal shavings, and that too on a bike that had crossed 10k on the odo.

HeroHonda Oil, most underrated oil here, does the job and is bang for the buck, only problem is that the oil change frequency is considerably more.

Elf Super HDB Turbo, awesome oil used it in my moms Zen as well, but the only issue is that it's only available in 5L cans, which cost around 1.3k.

Rimula R3, good oil for the city and moderate touring, but on my Kolli trip the cutch was sticking abit too much, and it reached a point were I had to stop and take a break for the bike to cool down.

Mobil1 Delvac, overall it's a good oil, gives Synth smoothness and costs just a fraction, and the cutch doesn't stick like the R3. This is the only Diesel oil which I found fit for repeated use considering the ride quality and price, and as a matter of fact last week when I went home, I drained out the old one and put in a new bottle.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Nice write up. I differ on the Motul part though. Agreed they feel a bit off at first, but the funny part is that they only show their true colours after at least 50-100 km. after that its bliss. Im runnin on 7100 10W40 right now . Thanx for the detailed experiences. Will think about the Mobil after this Motul gets tired


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Due to personal reasons, I was not able to test my bike's electricals. I will try to check the electricals of my bike soon.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Ashwin, I don't agree with Petronas there. We had used that oil for more than 4 yrs in many bikes. We didn't find any metal scrapings as you found. There might be something wrong with your bike.

I had been using Petronas before I opened up my bike's engine. I didn't find any scrapes on any moving parts. You can see the pictures too.

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