^^Thanks
This is what my friend was charged
1.Friction plates -1425 rs (contains 5 plates)
2.Clutch plates - 158 rs (contains 4 plates)

There is Collinte Metal wax available - Collinite Metal Wax - 850 available online - auto-mall.in
This product applied once can protect for a longer period against rust, sea breeze and strong dirt/stains and keep the chrome bling for a long time. The results are impressive and I'm planning to buy one. These are premium products.


I'm sure if had your bike in white would have looked nasty! For me scratch is a scratch and no matter which color, still would regret for getting her bruised.

That's a bit pricy bro ,Any other ways?

Yes, it is expensive but worth every drop of it. I would normally not recommend this product unless people are conscious about their bikes.

You can use anti-rust coat on those parts giving into corrosion. I don't readily remember the product. That would salvage some time.

Yup bro, a scratch is a scratch, and am sure every rider would have to deal with it sooner or later.

Anyways, got my bilke waxed today, now it shines like new.

I don't get time to wax the bike often. So it would be a twice a month. Ok, enough of OT.

Thanks Ashwin. The neatness probably is because of the blackness of brand new tyres. The black patch on the fairing actually doesn't look that great in person. But I am going to take care of that, will post the before/after images sometime this week. The saree guard was removed when I had bought it from the previous owner, trying hard to find a crashguard which will let me keep the engine cowl too.


Thanks Aneesh. No changes made, and I was skeptical about the changes when I was getting it fixed at the Michelin shop's garage. The guy simply swapped the wheels with new tyres, and didnt do any changes. He checked for free-rotation of the rear wheel, and I could see that it did not touch any of the bike parts. Tell me whether the linkage rod has to be bent so as to avoid friction? (maybe while riding with a pillion). If that's the case I will get it done today. The tip of the front fender has been cut as it had a crack and was rattling a bit. Maybe I can call it a mod for better aerodynamics. I need to change the fender too, but the SC has not stock at the moment.

Btw I am yet to fully realize changes to the grip, as I ride too slowly/smoothly and hardly get a chance to break hard. But I rode in heavy rain in Bangalore city roads yesterday and deliberately tried all sorts of crazy/zigzag riding (within 70kmph) as the road was deserted, and boy, the tyre is top notch. I purposely rode over the areas with standing water during the rain, and felt that the tyre never lost its traction with the road, and never once the bike moved in a direction against my decision. The most important change I noticed - the bike now asks to be leaned in corners! I can lean the bike in an instant in curves, and its probably because of the round-er profile of the M45s. But havent felt the bike/handling to be heavy or slow or different in a negative way, was able to touch 115kmph easily before I ran out of road.

My bike has covered 45 kms (am not getting to ride much as of now due to my busy schedule). Recently sorted out the idle RPM issue, now it is at ~1k when cold. Didn't know that it is so easy to set. But there is one issue I am finding. The throttle response seems to be inconsistent, especially in higher gears. Sometimes it is smooth while at other time it feels like struggling to go up and then suddenly the power comes. Is it because of the engine being new? Is it common? What may be the reason?

Help Me!!! Please

Hi,
I am struck with a huge problem with my ZMA-R and has made my bike unuable for more than a month now which is now taking rounds of service stations and lying there for weeks.
It all started when I gave my bike for servicing in DTW a month and a half ago and this time the guys took 5 working days and the only change I had asked was to switch to Motul Engine Oil. After the service I took my bike to electronic city and back home a total of about ~30Kms. I had parked my bike and away for 4 days. on my return when I started the bike it failed and the console didnt power on initially. When I pressed the brake lever it powered ON. That night while I started my bike it switched off after becoming rich. Later on it didnt start and even if it did the idling will kill the engine. The RPM would never sustains in idling. Later the next morning I somehow took the bike to DTW while maintaining the accelerator at high (Risky enough that I missed few chances of accidents). He kept the bike for 2 days and said the Tappet was hard and its now fixed. But after travelling 15Kms it stopped again. Same issue the console would reset on its own and the engine shuts off. Later at one point the engine would allow me to accelerate. But again I couldn't lower the throttle to change the gear and the engine will be shutoff. So somehow managed to reach home. Again the next day took the bike to DTW and this time he took 2 weeks. And said its now perfectly alright; he said he had suspected the coil & found no issue on coil so he checked for all short circuits and re connected everything. Damn the next day it stopped again with same issue. This time I took the bike to Majestic Mobikes in RV Road. There they did the normal service and said its fine. But the moment I took the vehicle out. I saw that the idling RPM was at 2.5K. when asked to lower the problem started again. Later they replaced the coil in my presence and swapped the CDI but the problem persists. Today Ram Murthy in Majestic Mobikes said he feels there's sych failure in opening & closing of the valves in low RPM which may cause this issue and hence wants to check that.
I suspect the abnormal heating of the engine. One thing I observed is, say I keep the vehicle with the 1st gear applied and when I try to kick start holding the clutch the vehicle would jerk slightly as if I am not holding the clutch. Earlier I remember holding the clutch and then kick start would disengage the engine from the kick and that the kicker would move freely.
I request could somebody apply your thoughts in fixing the issue on my bike.

As the bike is new, the irregular power seems to be due to lean Air-Fuel mixture. Better keep the idle rpm at 1.2k when cold (or even a bit more say 1.4k as Bangalore is pretty cool again these days). Also its normal for the bike to under-perform for a bit, when you're powering up the bike in the morning for the first time or when it has been parked in rain for few hours. It takes about two kilometers of sane riding to warmup the engine and for proper combustion to start. Expect the bike to be sluggish in the initial 2-3 kilometers. Let us know if you're facing issues even after the Idle RPM increase and after the warming up procedure.

Just check the linkage rod,because while fixing m45 on my karizma,the tire was rubbing on the rod.

Karizma R has 6 friction plates or 5 ,my friend changed his zma R clutch and friction plates yesterday and it was 5 friction plates.

New Karizma R has 6 Friction plates whereas old one has 5 plates.

Hey guys.
I am looking for a good engine oil for my bike.
Karizma-R 35000kms
Right now i am using Shell Advance AX7 10w40. I will be doing a 2000kms ride next month. So i am wondering if i should stick to the same oil or use something better.

Since you'r planning on touring go for a higher grade.