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**amey2901987** · 01-02-2014, 09:07 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

When did you last get the bike serviced? 3 months before

What is the reading on the odometer?14321 kms..

When did you clean/change the spark plug/air filter?clean 3 months before

Which engine oil do you use??castrol

How is the performance of the bike?? its ok ok

Any loss or drop in power output?? no

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my mechanic is telling that in carburator there is screw which set the mileage.. its get jam and nothing getting out..

**jayanth** · 01-02-2014, 11:09 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Best way to run in is to ride the bike in the way you normally intend to, but don't keep constant RPM's for long and on continuous rides take short breaks. And do change the oil when the bike starts to feel rough, even if its just a 100kms old. Don't forget to redline at least once after a while, the extra force is needed for a perfect seal.

Sent from my Nokia Lumia using Tapatalk

thank you ashwin.. really helpful information..

Sent from my GT-I9300 using xBhp Connect mobile app

**vijayvenkatesans** · 01-02-2014, 11:32 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by amey2901987 View Post

my mechanic is telling that in carburator there is screw which set the mileage.. its get jam and nothing getting out..

I think he is referring to the AFR screw. It's not exactly a mileage screw. You can search this thread to find what it is and an image giving it's location. It has also been discussed in this thread before that a few drops of 2T oil can loosen up the screw.
As for the FE, there should be other problem(s) for it to be this low. After loosening the screw, check how many turns it is set at. It should be ~3.5 turns. Search this thread to find out how to measure/set it.

Other factors that can affect FE are:
Bad fuel
Low Tyre Pressure
Fuel Leakage
Faulty Spark Plug (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Check for these.
PS: And I thought 27kmpl was bad.

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Originally posted by sounakray View Post

@rreneav1987, even I'm planning to go for the Osram night breaker plus, but I can't find it anywhere online without a pair, which costs 1.1k and above. Can you tell me how much did u get it for, and did u get a single piece?
Is there any one in this forum who would like to share a new pair with me?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

I got a Philips Xtreme vision as a single bulb for Rs. 520 in Chennai. Using it without a relay. The brightness is very good compared to the stock bulb. Haven't seen the Nightbreaker though, so, can't compare.

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Originally posted by ankss View Post

Guyz i wanted to know, is it okay if i remove my cain guard completely.

Actually its joint got broken and touching my chain and rear tire. so have removed it.

My query is , should i put it back after welding or be as it is wdout the chain guard

If you can clean the chain every week, then you can take it off or else keeping it on is a convenience especially in the muddy waters on the roads.

**nithin2767** · 01-03-2014, 01:06 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Nithin, why do you want to buy one, when I already have it. You can come over to my place and we could check. Even if you buy one, there is no adopter that fits the karizma plug. You need to make an adopter yourself with an old plug.

Ya that's definitely a good idea. I ill meet you sometime soon maybe just not for a compression test but to meet an enthusiastic and kariZmatic XBHPbiker

. I have your number with me and i ill PM you my number too.

**shirish** · 01-03-2014, 01:58 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Shirish, I am yet to test. Didn't get any chance to ride for long hours at night. Moreover, I removed the relay setup to check the difference in light output. I noticed 20% drop without the relay setup. I am going to put the relay setup back this weekend and would check when I get to ride for long hours.

Meanwhile, you can go ahead and buy Osram Nightbraker Plus and use it, simply a plug and play. The light output would be 30% more than your stock one which would definitely be helpful in city. You can go for the relay setup later once I confirm its safe for the reflector.

Ravi, have ordered the NB through ebay, should reach mein a couple of days. So as you said earlier, could the reflector burn be due to the relay, as the heat increases due to the increased light intensity?

**rreneav1987** · 01-03-2014, 11:20 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by amey2901987 View Post

When did you last get the bike serviced? 3 months before

What is the reading on the odometer?14321 kms..

When did you clean/change the spark plug/air filter?clean 3 months before

Which engine oil do you use??castrol

How is the performance of the bike?? its ok ok

Any loss or drop in power output?? no

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

my mechanic is telling that in carburator there is screw which set the mileage.. its get jam and nothing getting out..

Oops. I dont know much about carb AFR screws.. but could be possible.. [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, [MENTION=11210]ravi@17bhp[/MENTION], [MENTION=28527]sibun[/MENTION] or [MENTION=37035]ashwinprakas[/MENTION] can guide you on this

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

**phanikar** · 01-03-2014, 12:02 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Update:

A small update on the changes done on the Zma

Bore Kit Changed (82105Kms)
Finished 4K kms on the new bore. Infact the Old Bore had a lot of juice in it to take past 1L kms , but had some big ride plans, so didnt want to risk with the old bore. There were some Scratches on the Piston but nothing much to worry, it looked like the scratches made as a result of improper run in by the previous owner.
The new bore was thrown into some hardships (Included High speed runs by Zma's standards and off roading ) in the last 3000kms and the bike is holding up good.

Pic of the Old Bore:

Now at 86530 following changes were made
Clutch Plates, including Steel plates.
Timing Chain
Carb Diaphram.
Disc Pads.
Air Filter..
FS engine oil Shell Advance Ultra.

Total burn in the pocket , including the Bore kit , roughly around Rs.8000/-

Result: Worth Every Penny Spent.

P.S: Except the Clutch plates None of the Spares had worn out beyond functional area. Was changed just for my satisfaction

**ashwinprakas** · 01-03-2014, 01:00 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Oops. I dont know much about carb AFR screws.. but could be possible.. @psr sir, @ravi@17bhp, @sibun or @ashwinprakas can guide you on this

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

If its stuck then you can either use brake fluid and try removing, or take it to lathe and drill it out and replace the AFR screw.

[IMG][/IMG]

Pic courtesy BlackPanther

**rreneav1987** · 01-03-2014, 01:04 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

If its stuck then you can either use brake fluid and try removing, or take it to lathe and drill it out and replace the AFR screw.

Pic courtesy BlackPanther

Dude, suggest what the reason is for that low FE. a ZMA giving 15kmpl!!

**ashwinprakas** · 01-03-2014, 01:09 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Dude, suggest what the reason is for that low FE. a ZMA giving 15kmpl!!

A pic of the SP after considerable idling would be needed to hypothesize.

**ravi@17bhp** · 01-03-2014, 01:24 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by shirish View Post

Ravi, have ordered the NB through ebay, should reach mein a couple of days. So as you said earlier, could the reflector burn be due to the relay, as the heat increases due to the increased light intensity?

Great! Hope you have ordered H4 bulb and not any others. You can sell me the second bulb if you are getting a pair. Regarding the reflector melting, I am not sure if its happened after I put relay setup or it happened before. A little confusion here. There is possibility that it might have developed after the relay setup. So, for time being you just use the Nightbrakers without relay.

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Oops. I dont know much about carb AFR screws.. but could be possible.. @psr sir, @ravi@17bhp, @sibun or @ashwinprakas can guide you on this

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

Use WD-40 spray on the screw and let it soak for a couple of hours. Try opening it then. If it still refuses, spray additional quantity and let it for overnight. Try again in the morning. If it still refuses, slightly tap on the screw head with a screw driver to allow breakage of rust layers between the threads. Hopefully it should come by now. Else, take the carb to lathe machine and drill it out and then put a new screw.

NOTE: Don't use brake fluid, it would cause paint damage.

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Dude, suggest what the reason is for that low FE. a ZMA giving 15kmpl!!

There could be so many reasons for very poor FE. Without details its not possible to point. Drastic change in FE would generally maybe due to fuel leakage or evaporation from tank or from the fuel passage tubes, over flow of fuel in the carb leading to drainage, fuel quantity cheating at filling stations, etc. If the bike is not properly serviced and maintained, a combination of many things could reduce the FE, like riding style, riding conditions, under inflated tires, rich AFR, poorly adjusted clutch, worn out clutch plates, dirty air filter, bad spark plug, excessive valve clearances, etc.

**rreneav1987** · 01-03-2014, 01:28 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Great! Hope you have ordered H4 bulb and not any others. You can sell me the second bulb if you are getting a pair. Regarding the reflector melting, I am not sure if its happened after I put relay setup or it happened before. A little confusion here. There is possibility that it might have developed after the relay setup. So, for time being you just use the Nightbrakers without relay.

Use WD-40 spray on the screw and let it soak for a couple of hours. Try opening it then. If it still refuses, spray additional quantity and let it for overnight. Try again in the morning. If it still refuses, slightly tap on the screw head with a screw driver to allow breakage of rust layers between the threads. Hopefully it should come by now. Else, take the carb to lathe machine and drill it out and then put a new screw.

NOTE: Don't use brake fluid, it would cause paint damage.

There could be so many reasons for very poor FE. Without details its not possible to point. Drastic change in FE would generally maybe due to fuel leakage or evaporation from tank or from the fuel passage tubes, over flow of fuel in the carb leading to drainage, fuel quantity cheating at filling stations, etc. If the bike is not properly serviced and maintained, a combination of many things could reduce the FE, like riding style, riding conditions, under inflated tires, rich AFR, poorly adjusted clutch, worn out clutch plates, dirty air filter, bad spark plug, excessive valve clearances, etc.

Yes you are right and thats why i put up a certain group of questions and he pointed out towards carb, i am far par from carbs as i havent meddled around with the carb til now. I started messing around with bikes after coming to delhi though i did play around with the electrical parts of my karizma and splendor.. never the carb and i regret not learning

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

**ashwinprakas** · 01-03-2014, 01:28 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Paint damage in carb? Confused now.

**ravi@17bhp** · 01-03-2014, 01:30 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Paint damage in carb? Confused now.

Not the carb. Most probably the applied brake fluid would drip down on the engine, causing paint loss.

**rreneav1987** · 01-03-2014, 01:30 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Originally posted by ravi@17bhp View Post

Great! Hope you have ordered H4 bulb and not any others. You can sell me the second bulb if you are getting a pair. Regarding the reflector melting, I am not sure if its happened after I put relay setup or it happened before. A little confusion here. There is possibility that it might have developed after the relay setup. So, for time being you just use the Nightbrakers without relay.

Use WD-40 spray on the screw and let it soak for a couple of hours. Try opening it then. If it still refuses, spray additional quantity and let it for overnight. Try again in the morning. If it still refuses, slightly tap on the screw head with a screw driver to allow breakage of rust layers between the threads. Hopefully it should come by now. Else, take the carb to lathe machine and drill it out and then put a new screw.

NOTE: Don't use brake fluid, it would cause paint damage.

There could be so many reasons for very poor FE. Without details its not possible to point. Drastic change in FE would generally maybe due to fuel leakage or evaporation from tank or from the fuel passage tubes, over flow of fuel in the carb leading to drainage, fuel quantity cheating at filling stations, etc. If the bike is not properly serviced and maintained, a combination of many things could reduce the FE, like riding style, riding conditions, under inflated tires, rich AFR, poorly adjusted clutch, worn out clutch plates, dirty air filter, bad spark plug, excessive valve clearances, etc.

Yes you are right and thats why i put up a certain group of questions and he pointed out towards carb, i am far par from carbs as i havent meddled around with the carb til now. I started messing around with bikes after coming to delhi and since then I ride a FI engine, though i did play around with the electrical parts of my karizma and splendor.. never the carb and i regret not learning

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Paint damage in carb? Confused now.

buddy. possible that the brake fluid can damage the plastic and the paint in case it spills anywhere near it.. my bike rear cowl is broken and paint is coming off.. damn.. silly mistake

:'(

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