Re: Karizma/Karizma R


Welcome @sounakray ...

Yesterday I got these http://www.ebay.in/itm/251373317829?...84.m1439.l2649 pilot lamps fitted. Divya Sharan has the same on his bike too.
Will post a daytime pic soon.

@everyone .. I would like to know at what interval do we need to change the clutch plates? or how can we know that the plates need to be replaced ?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks again, [MENTION=34359]ryan.virgo[/MENTION], bro! I'll be waiting for your pics before I finally place the order :P

Also, if I remember it correctly, [MENTION=41586]Divya Sharan[/MENTION] had once mentioned that he has an LED SMD setup on his pilot lamps. The eBay link says that this is a single LED projection bulb.
I'm again confused here. :P Does LED projection lamps have any particular advantage over SMDs? 8 SMD pairs are available on eBay at half the price.
My logical guess is the SMDs will be brighter at close range, but the projections will have a more pointed and longer throw.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Some don't need to be changed even at 50K, and depending on riding style (or luck), you might even have to have them changed at 15K. If you encounter clutch slippage or can't accelerate properly, or can't maintain max speed easily, it would be time to change clutch plates, else let it be.

Projection type LED has a dome that focuses the throw for a few feet, but the light isn't too bright and it will be diffused after a few meters (am talking about the cheaper ones - different if you use a bright Cree!). SMD types are multiple LEDS on a single socket and at times welded in a series on a PCB (please correct the terminology as I'm not an electronics guy ). The common ones like your 8/10 ones are 3528 (single LED) and the 5020 (3x LEDS on one package) which is more brighter.

Couple photographs of 5020 LED's.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I have had both SMD LEDs as well as projector LEDs as pilot lamps. SMDs conked off in 13 months of usage. Running the projectors for 2 months now.

Pic with SMD LEDs:



Pic with projectors:



Regarding clutch plates, I've done ~42k kms and touch-wood I'm still on stock ones! Depends upon the riding style. And by riding style I don't mean only revving, but also if one uses the clutch for anything apart from changing gears. I have seen people disengage the clutch while taking turns, while braking etc.

These are bad riding habits. With practice, I have almost eliminated the above and I use the clutch only to change gears.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

SMD, Projector LED, all use LEDs; the difference is only in circuit design. The brightness of the LEDs is dependent on the power of the LED, and not the number of LEDs. There are as big as 20W single LED.

In the projector type LED shown above, there is only one front LED with a projector lens infront of it. The one AK3D using has 5 LEDs; one on each side including front. Now, Karizma has a petal/floral reflector in the pilot lamp housing. To get the petal/floral reflection, you need to use a bulb with LEDs on all sides. If you use bulbs with one LED at the front, there will not be any floral/petal reflection.

I have used many pilot LED bulbs, but all have been durable without any issues. I generally select LEDs that are built with good quality. With good quality LEDs, manufacturers generally give all the specifications. The LEDs that I am currently using are 3W rated with color temperature at 5000k (pure/warm white), made with LEDs from LG and with aluminium heat sinks. Got them for 650. Expensive, but I love them.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Got an NGK G Power a while back for Rs. 170. Got it installed today as soon as my bike hit reserve. Here's a pic of the stock carb with AFR at 3.5. Am I running rich or is it fine?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

These days, I completely forgot that my bike has any rear brakes (virtually nonexistent); its time for me to replace the rear brake shoes. I remember reading a better shoes than the stock ones, some non-asbestos type. It was mentioned somewhere in previous post that I can't dig out. Could somebody please help me?

@sibun, I remember reading from you. Any pointers on this?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I think you are referring to Splendor's OE shoes for the front wheel. It suits Hunk/XTreme's rear drum and is better than stock ones.
I think the same will suit for Zma also.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

As mentioned by [MENTION=49050]SatSon[/MENTION] and previously posted by Aneesh - http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcyc...ma-r-1399.html

Post # 13983

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks [MENTION=41586]Divya Sharan[/MENTION] and [MENTION=49050]SatSon[/MENTION].

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Opened the engine today to replace the cam chain and the guides. Found the 10k kms old bore (rebored to 0.5 size) to have a lot piston-cylinder clearance, so much that part of the piston rings are visible clearly. Check the photos. Will do the measurement of gap with feeler gauge later.


The white line at the edges is the top piston ring. The lathe expert did a poor job and bored the cylinder more than required.




Seems the cam lobes worn out a bit. You can see it in the following pic. The middle 80% of the lobe surface is flat and at the ends its raised a bit. I could feel it when touched with my finger.




Recently when I was changing the carb insulator, I noticed carbon formation on the back of intake valve and thought there is intake valve leak. But, I found the valves are seated properly without any leaks. Poured petrol on the valves and left it for an hour. No leakage found in the manifolds.

This is the condition of valves.






Thought of going for next OS for the bore, was ready to experiment again, but due to time constraints in the future, I may not spend much time with the bike, so decided to go for new bore kit. As the valves are just 20k kms old, and as the seating appears to be good, decided against valve seating job. Changing the following.

Bore Kit
Cam shaft
Cam chain sprocket
Cam chain and guides
Tensioner appears fine but will recheck and replace if needed.

Sourced all the parts and work will be done tomorrow. Will update tomorrow again.
[MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, please notice the spark plug color. Its white on exhaust valve side and a little brown on intake valve side.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

AFR looks good from what I can see in the pictures.
Slight correction- white one is intake and brown is exhaust side.

Splendor's front brake shoe is direct fit for karizma's rear brake. Don't get OE but ANL or ASK asbestos type shoes.

When the bore is removed, check for play in connecting rod. Excessive clearance between bore-piston can sometimes damage the con-rod big end bearing.
Can you post few pictures of the valves removed from head ?
It would be good if you can polish the valve seat by hand.(Please avoid polishing/seating the valves by using a drill at any cost)

If you need any help regarding spares, mechanic or anything else then please feel free to contact me.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Thanks Shoeb for your inputs. Now I am confused as some suggested the OE one and you suggesting the non-OE one. Which one would work better? I don't want brake shoes that last long and destroy the alloy. Could you please explain me why ANL one is better than OE?

Regarding the color, I was referring to the color of spark plug insulator, not the valves. And yeah, the brown one is inlet valve and the while one is exhaust valve.

I checked the conrod play; little play is there but minimal. I used this OS bore for 10k kms. Also, 10k kms back, crank is opened and the bearing is changed. At that time, there was a little bit more play of the conrod. Now, I am confused whether this little play is really bad.

Regarding valves, actually I am not planning to remove them. Just clean from the top and use the head as it is. Do you think I need to open the valves? I have checked the back of the valves from the inlet and exhaust manifolds. The exhaust valve is white in color and there is some carbon formation at the back of the inlet valve. With no valve leak, the suspicion is defective timing.

Thanks for the offer to help and I am really happy for that. I will contact you soon.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=6275]Ravi[/MENTION] ....the cam does seem to have grooves, and the Piston rings can be seen clearly.I guess the previous person who did the bore job had set excessive clearance . Better to go for New Bore and Piston kit from ASC with new cam..Check timing chain also for increase in length, and change if necessary..

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I am replacing all the above sir. I sourced the spares too. Only a little doubt is there about conrod; thinking about putting an OS connecting rod to be sure. Would that work?