Got an NGK G Power a while back for Rs. 170. Got it installed today as soon as my bike hit reserve. Here's a pic of the stock carb with AFR at 3.5. Am I running rich or is it fine?
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Opened the engine today to replace the cam chain and the guides. Found the 10k kms old bore (rebored to 0.5 size) to have a lot piston-cylinder clearance, so much that part of the piston rings are visible clearly. Check the photos. Will do the measurement of gap with feeler gauge later. The white line at the edges is the top piston ring. The lathe expert did a poor job and bored the cylinder more than required.Seems the cam lobes worn out a bit. You can see it in the following pic. The middle 80% of the lobe surface is flat and at the ends its raised a bit. I could feel it when touched with my finger.Recently when I was changing the carb insulator, I noticed carbon formation on the back of intake valve and thought there is intake valve leak. But, I found the valves are seated properly without any leaks. Poured petrol on the valves and left it for an hour. No leakage found in the manifolds. This is the condition of valves.Thought of going for next OS for the bore, was ready to experiment again, but due to time constraints in the future, I may not spend much time with the bike, so decided to go for new bore kit. As the valves are just 20k kms old, and as the seating appears to be good, decided against valve seating job. Changing the following. Bore KitCam shaftCam chain sprocketCam chain and guidesTensioner appears fine but will recheck and replace if needed. Sourced all the parts and work will be done tomorrow. Will update tomorrow again. [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir, please notice the spark plug color. Its white on exhaust valve side and a little brown on intake valve side.

I had a talk with shoeb just now about your post.I would keep my post short and precise:-1.From your bore post it is clear engine oil has been seeping into chamber from quite a time. So replace with new bore as none in two wheeler lathe do boring on boring machine. Only four wheeler lathe does it. While replacing the bore check the rings gap by inserting the rings in bore and checking. If the gap is more buy oversize ring and use the oil ring by grinding the edges.2. Camshaft- Change that as the worn camshaft will screw the low end and mid end torque.3. Change the timing kit for smooth and longer lasting valve train.4. Open the complete engine and change the con-rod in a good lathe. As without a new con-rod new bore will be a waste as it will eat up the new bore.5. Check the clutch housing and change the rubber grommet in the housing and also change the clutch plates. If they are new then no need to change.For longer lasting of engine open the complete engine and do a overhaul. Play special attention to crank, bore kit, valve train and clutch.Any doubt feel free to ask here.And last but not the least take the help of shoeb as he is also in hyderabad and he is also an expert when it comes to bikes.If i would have been at hyderabad then would have personally helped you.

What is this clutch rubber grommet? Is it easily available as a spare?
Regarding the crank, the last time (10k kms back), there was some side play in the conrod and the lathe guy put an oversize bearings and adjusted the play. I don't know if he had changed the pin. Now, an OS conrod would work? Do I get proper crank pin for the OS conrod? Is there any way other than getting a new crank ?
I spoke to Shoeb a while back. Will talk to him tomorrow and see.

This grommet (or a better word - bushing) holds the clutch basket and its gear. It acts as a dampener.
Common symptom of worn-out bushing is noise at idling RPM.

To check for play- You must hold the clutch basket in one hand, the ring gear by another hand and try to turn them in opposite direction. There must be little to no play.

Apparently, worn out bushing can even damage the GPT which in-turn damages the crank.
All thanks to sibun for sharing his knowledge and experience. Thanks a lot dear.

We will have a look at the crank and decide what to do. There is absolutely no need to go for new crank as it can be re-built by using all necessary parts, properly.

@ravi@17bhp- No need to touch the valves. Since it has been changed 20k prior nothing to do. Just open the valves and clean the ports as your engine was burning oil so would have carbon deposits in ports. Clean the ports, polish the valves and re-fit back.For rocker arms, check the flat head which rubs against camshaft. Feels them with your fingers. If they feel smooth then no problem. But if they has slight grooves in them just change them.For clutch plates if you have changed them 500 km back them no need of changing them. Clutch bell grommets are not available original. Most of them use aftermarkets grommets and pins. Open the clutch bell and check for play and if no play then no need to change. Also if while leaving clutch from standstill bike makes sssssss....sssssssssss....... type of sound while clutch is engaging then the clutch bell along with GPT has to be changed.For crank nothing major, if the crank has side play nothing to worry as new crank also have it as without some play crank will be tight to rotate. Check for vertical play by holding the connecting rod at TDC and with palm of other hand strike the con rod lightly and in a jerky manner. If the crank shows vertical play then open it. Go for Oversize connecting rod with oversize pin. OE doesn't come with oversize but there are many good quality aftermarket ones that last as long as OE. Some of the brands are Alfa, NRB, MB e.t.c.

Will check the rocker arms and replace them too if needed. Clutch bell had no play and it appeared good. One observation is, when the engine is hot there is like a sewing machine noise at idle, and it reduces a bit when I pull clutch lever. BTW, what is GPT? Will test the crank and do the necessary.

Thats the GPT sound. GPT is the small gear that is near the clutch bell which transmits crank rotation to the clutch bell. It is situated behind the centrifugal filter on the crankshaft.Since this sound is there check the teeths on GPT and clutch bell they must be worn, if worn you have to change them both eventough clutch bell will not be having any play.Check and change if they are worn then only change. Take shoeb with you and he can take some decisions.

These days, I completely forgot that my bike has any rear brakes (virtually nonexistent); its time for me to replace the rear brake shoes. I remember reading a better shoes than the stock ones, some non-asbestos type. It was mentioned somewhere in previous post that I can't dig out. Could somebody please help me?

[MENTION=66132]sounakray[/MENTION] some pics of the projector type LED