guys,
a quick one; I've replaced the stock battery on my ZMA with an Amaron 12V battery about 8months back. whenever I turn on the indicator with the headlight on, I can see a subtle decrease/increase in the lighting. If I use a horn with the indicator on, the sound is like a sine wave.
why is this so? I though the Amaron 12V should be powerful enough

It is the spec from HH...The generator in all ZMA are Three phase like in the car Alternators and is superior in providing strong continuous Current...You must take into consideration other loads also..ie.,
CDI= 3 Amps
Rear lights at night + braking = 10+42=52 watts=4.4 Amps
Charging of good battery = 2.5 Amps
Turn indicator =21+21=42 watts=3.5 Amps
Pilot lights + city lights =18 watts= 1.5 Amps
Stock head light 35/35 watts = 3 Amps.....
Total power in Amps = 17.9 Amps..
So at night the demand on the Generator is max...and during day it is less and the battery gets a chance to get charged from which the extra demand during night riding is drawn...so upgrading to higher than 50/60 watts head light will put a strain on the RR and battery in the night...
The saving grace in the calculation is that even at night the turn indicators and brake lights are used intermittently, thereby giving the battery a chance to get charged,during night drive also.
Just my thought.....

Hey Ravi, how is your reboring experimentation going on. Any idea . Any idea as to the fix this my speedo is not working and mechanic told me something I didn't understand he said the stick thing inside the hole is supposed turn inside when front wheel is rotated.

Hey Ravi, how is your reboring experimentation going on. Any idea . Any idea as to the fix this my speedo is not working and mechanic told me something I didn't understand he said the stick thing inside the hole is supposed turn inside when front wheel is rotated.

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There is a small gear and pinion setup inside front wheel which rotates when the wheel is rotated. The pinion rotates a flexible cable ( The stick thing that your mechanic was talking about ).
[ATTACH=CONFIG]132563[/ATTACH]
Looks something like this. The round one is the gear and the other one is pinion.

If it's not rotating then its gone o guess.. Is it a simple fix..


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Headlight - 55W, when headlight is on, 2X brake bulbs are on as well - 20W, Sidelight is also 20W, add to that the 2A horn

On searching to verify it, I found this from a while ago
Courtesy @psr ji in the ZMR thread



Thanks AK. That explains it, but my horn does the see-saw sound even during the day.


If the gear is gone, replace it. If the 'stick thing' rotates, replace the speedo cable.

Actually, he was referring to me, and my reboring work that I did an year back. He also did rebore at the same time. He quoted you by mistake.

Chetan,
I believe you're referring to the speedometer issue I had earlier. Then the speedometer wasn't working and the electronic display was also messed up. The speedometer assembly was replaced. The speedo started working but the display was still messy.
I then went back to my earlier HH SVC and they refitted it without me even mentioning it. Talk about good service

Thanks AK. That explains it, but my horn does the see-saw sound even during the day.

Buddy, most of the batteries these days are 12V. what is the AH of the Amaron battery you are using? I upgraded from 6AH Exide MF battery to 9AH Amaron MF battery.. I had issues with battery initially. later, realized it wasn't the battery at fault, but the Stator Plate at fault.. it went Kaput. By the way, I own a ZMR

Check voltages and all connections as @ravi@17bhp had done earlier. If there's a voltage drop anywhere in the line, it is one possible issue.
The RR might also not be giving proper output, so you'll need to check that too.
Also check the battery charge, ensure it's not going bad. It is another possibility.

yeah, forgot to metion that. I too upgraded to the Amaron MF 9AH battery. err, but what is this stator plate for I tried reading about it, but didn't understand much.

How often do you ride at nights and which is the longest you have done kn your bike at night..

Can you do me a favor?? Can you check with multimeter with headlights on and let me know what the multimeter reads.. and then raise the acceleration and let me know the multimeter reading.

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I have used headlights (55/60w) for 12 hours continuously at nights without any issues.

Just now I checked my ZMAs battery voltages (new Amaron 9A MF battery). Before starting its ~13.8 volts; idle ~14.5 volts; and at 4k rpm ~14.8 volts. Headlight on at idle ~13.5 volts; when revved to 4k rpm, with headlight on, ~14 volts.

Check resistance in the power line between RR unit and relay to rule out wiring issue. Swap RR unit from another ZMR and see. Then the only culprit remained would be alternator.

If the RR unit fails, then it should be a total failure, like its main circuit blown due to excessive heat (means, its not passing the current from generator, completely blocking). If the regulator function fails, then it would result in blown bulbs. Just some analysis.

BTW, isn't there any way to check if the three leads from the generator passing the current to RR unit?

after 5 months, I am facing issues with the battery again.. myself and @prateek2210 went to Karol Bagh on Saturday evening to check on a headlight assembly for his bike, on our way, it was evening so he turned on the parking lights on my bike. we stopped for signal and he was finding difficulties to neutral the bike. so the bike turned off and then he got the bike to neutral. so the green signal flashes an he cranked the bike and down goes the speedo console and luckily the bike started. i was like WTF.. the next day I took the bike to the service center.. they checked the charging using multimeter.. with ignition off, the battery showed 12V, with the bike turned on, the battery showed the same and when the acceleration given, the battery showed only 12.4V at max.. then he wanted to check the starter relay, they checked and same happened.. initially they said the Starter Plate has to be checked.. they got a new starter plate and before removing the old one, they wanted to check with another battery. they did and that battery seemed to charge better. showed upto 14.16V when acceleration was given.

so they came to a conclusion that the issue is with the battery, get it changed. I was like it is just 5 months old. is it possible for the battery to go kaput.. they said yes.

I left from the place without checking the voltage rating with load on (headlights) because what seems to happen when i went to Amaron is, the battery I am using at the moment, when load is applied, it doesn't go beyond 11.4V even when Acceleration is given. then he got a new battery from inside and checked and the battery was showing 12.66V with ignition off, engine on it showed 14V + .. then when he applied load (headlights on) the battery didn't stayed down below 12.5V.. so this guy said it is an issue with the Bike's charging unit..

what could be the problem here?? @psr sir @Divya Sharan @sibun and all others.. i need suggestions.. is it the issue with the starter coil or the charging unit?? the starter Plate will cost me somewhere near 2000/- i have been facing this issue from the very beginning. I always knew something was wrong with the charging unit.. instead the Service Center guys kept saying everything is fine

How often do you ride at nights and which is the longest you have done kn your bike at night..

Can you do me a favor?? Can you check with multimeter with headlights on and let me know what the multimeter reads.. and then raise the acceleration and let me know the multimeter reading.

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

I have used headlights (55/60w) for 12 hours continuously at nights without any issues.

Just now I checked my ZMAs battery voltages (new Amaron 9A MF battery). Before starting its ~13.8 volts; idle ~14.5 volts; and at 4k rpm ~14.8 volts. Headlight on at idle ~13.5 volts; when revved to 4k rpm, with headlight on, ~14 volts.

Check resistance in the power line between RR unit and relay to rule out wiring issue. Swap RR unit from another ZMR and see. Then the only culprit remained would be alternator.

If the RR unit fails, then it should be a total failure, like its main circuit blown due to excessive heat (means, its not passing the current from generator, completely blocking). If the regulator function fails, then it would result in blown bulbs. Just some analysis.

BTW, isn't there any way to check if the three leads from the generator passing the current to RR unit?

Rrneav...this is one of the difficult problems to sort out, and please follow the following procedure...

1. With the engine on and idling check voltage across battery...It must be 13.8~14.2 Volts D.C.
2. If so check the voltage at the fuses under the seat. You can see metal part on The top of the fuse which can be used for measuring the voltage.
3. If it is also same voltage as the battery..
4. check voltage across battery with head light load it must be 13~13.6 Volts.

If point 1 is low voltage slightly raise RPM to 2.5 to 3 K and see if voltage raises...if it does, battery is suspect.

If point 2 check shows lesser Volts at fuses under seat, then you have loose contact in the connector on top of Starter relay.

If with lamp load the Voltage rises again the Battery is suspect.

If the voltage across battery continues to remain low at all times then the RR or stator coil is suspect...( you have to FIRST rule out loose contact on the connector on top of Starter relay)

How often do you ride at nights and which is the longest you have done kn your bike at night..

Can you do me a favor?? Can you check with multimeter with headlights on and let me know what the multimeter reads.. and then raise the acceleration and let me know the multimeter reading.

Sent from my Spice Mi-530 using Tapatalk 4

I have used headlights (55/60w) for 12 hours continuously at nights without any issues.

Just now I checked my ZMAs battery voltages (new Amaron 9A MF battery). Before starting its ~13.8 volts; idle ~14.5 volts; and at 4k rpm ~14.8 volts. Headlight on at idle ~13.5 volts; when revved to 4k rpm, with headlight on, ~14 volts.

Check resistance in the power line between RR unit and relay to rule out wiring issue. Swap RR unit from another ZMR and see. Then the only culprit remained would be alternator.

If the RR unit fails, then it should be a total failure, like its main circuit blown due to excessive heat (means, its not passing the current from generator, completely blocking). If the regulator function fails, then it would result in blown bulbs. Just some analysis.

BTW, isn't there any way to check if the three leads from the generator passing the current to RR unit?

Thank you Ravi, this shows how bad my bike condition is in. on my bike, 14 Volts was showing up only after 8K + RPM and with load, the battery never even went above 12.5 Volts..

I am going to get this done either tomorrow or Tuesday bunking office for some time.. if in case they dont have a ZMR in the service center, then I will ask them to try with a new Karizma RR Unit and check if that brings any changes.. if still the problem is persisting, then it is time to get the starter plate changed..

in case the ZMR RR Unit isn't available, is it alright to use the Karizma's RR Unit? If yes, what is the cost? 1600/- ?? the stator plate costs ~1600/-

once i get this done, it is time to get the battery changed under warranty

I'll have it checked the next time at the SVC.

Actually, he was referring to me, and my reboring work that I did an year back. He also did rebore at the same time. He quoted you by mistake.

A digital multimeter costs @ 200/- . It's got a positive terminal and a negative terminal . Touch the positive terminal to the battery positive terminal and the negative terminal to the battery negative terminal . Observe and note voltage...

1- at 'key off' position
2- at idle
3- at @ 3000 rpm
4- at idle with headlight on
5- at @ 3000rpm with headlight on .

If the results can be posted here , I'm sure you'll get guidance from here , if not from me then from someone else .