Thanx psr ,now I'm gonna get me a pair of those to switch with the park lights . Also am thinking about using them for tail lamp 'cause they are so bright . Only problem is that a pair cost @ 250/- .
Am not an electronics man , but I do tinker a lot with electronic things and render most of them useless..!! .
I am modding my crash guard to fit an aux light on it . Will post snaps when it is ready .
I'm having trouble with my afr screw . It's become damn tight . I've tried spraying Zorrik , but it's not working . Wondering what to do next .
My accelerator movement has also become tight . It doesn't come to minimum if I let it go with higher rpm . Am planning to lubricate the A and B cable .

Just tried to build an emergency lamp with power from the battery of the bike ...

If Zorrick does not work, then try applying Brake Oil on the AFR screw. If you have a warm carb,after a ride or idling for some time, then the oil penetration will be better...if nothing works, then with a Line tester head placed on the screw ,gently tap once or twice, and again apply Brake oil...this will definitely loosen it up..
Regarding The accelerator problem, open accelerator grip,and after lubricating with 20w50 oil, apply grease generously on the A & B cable where cable enters the outer,and also inside the grip itself where the two cables are fixed...

Guys, need a suggestion. I'm planning to change my ZMA's stock tyres to some tubeless ones with same configuration as stock.

Please give me some options for ones with good grip.

Drill it out and get hold of a new one.


First increase throttle free play at carb to max and then see if its still sticking, if yes, then follow what psr sir has mentioned.

Zorrik-ed it again today( liberally ) and gave the afr screw a half-a-dozen taps . It's moving slightly - max of @ 60 degrees either way . Am planning to keep trying . Not interested in drilling and destroying it . Will try to salvage if possible . If it gets damaged I have a spare - the carb from the 'scrap' ZMA is with me now .
Have not yet decided whether to attend the tri-state G2G . Anyway I'll be prepping the ZMA for that . That means complete maintenance . . .

You got the break through...try Brake oil a few times, and keep turning the screw clockwise and anticlokwise alternatively, to let the oil get inside...the screw will loosen up and come out..

Yesterday, I noticed throttle cable B got cut. In April when I gave my bike for service at HHASS, I told them to change all the cables (clutch, Throttle A and B). They charged me for the new cables. Today, when I checked the B cable, I see its very muddy and like some years old. Those idiots changed only A cable and not B cable. All these days, I was thinking my bike not revving freely because of something in the engine. But, today after I changed the B cable, my bike is revving freely. In my recent trip to Kerala for 9 days, I didn't carry any spare cables thinking the cables are new. Thank god the cable got cut in City. My sincere advice to everyone, please buy the cables and fit them in front of your eyes.

And I noticed that even with just throttle cable A, the throttle movement was normal; the throttle was closing automatically when I leave it. Then, whats the need of cable B?

Also, I am getting an FE of 30-32 in city traffic (most of the times in 2nd and 3rd gear), and on highways at 80 kmph constant with occasional 100 kmph bursts I got 42 kmpl. The AFR screw at 3.25 turns. Is such a variation normal?

The gear usage (2nd and 3rd vs 5th ) alone would warrant such a difference . IMO speeds @ 55-70 kmph should give more mileage in the 'big capacity' ZMA .

Just the " A " cable which is the pull cable is enough....using a push and a pull cable reduces the strain on the Twist grip and prevents throttle inner plastic stopper from getting chaffed or broken...
You are getting normal FE which is typical for ZMA.

It was a completely different scenario for me. One day when i was moving the bike with my hands a 'tack' sound came from the right side handle bar, I knew something was broken but the bike was riding normal. But when I went to SVC they changed the B cable as it was broken. But the thing is that after the cable broke the throttle free play increased very much. And after twisting close to 15mm only the revs begin to rise. Which came back to normal after replacing the B cable.

Also the FE variation is quite drastic in the ZMA. I am getting variations normally ranging from 38-43kmpl. Often it has dropped to 30 and even gained upto 55 kmpl. Strange isnt it?

I was running my bike with single cable for some time and felt twisting was very easier than earlier. There should not be any change to FE, however, anything is possible in India.

On 1st and 2nd of this month did 220Kms trip on each day and the bike was ridden between 6~8k most of the time, since both the trips were made to Ponmudi, the 5th gear was only used in highways. The clutch slipped on both days from 2~N while climbing the same hair pin @ WOT. While hitting the corners hard something was scraping, havent figured out what it was yet. The overall performance of the bike was awesome, thanks to the carb mods, and Petronas also worked wonders, cause the engine never seemed to overheat no matter how hard we rode. But there were a few downfalls as well, the rear suspension has started squeaking though its not bottoming, have no idea what to do, any suggestions??? And the FE has dropped drastically to 30~32Kmpl. On the first day was riding solo, and on the second day was riding with pillion.

Me too facing the problems (highlighted in red) in my ZMR .

* Clutchslip -
This is normal for most bikes. And you can overcome this by-
1. Either redline in 1st and climb steep, or climb steep slowly in 2nd gear without crossing 6k.
2. Take a later apex while climbing hair pins.

*Suspension -
No idea, local mechs says to lube it, but am waiting for expert opinions before going forward with it.