Announcement

**Pinaki** · 09-16-2012, 12:53 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

That's a GOOD idea...but I am always scared of the connectors developing loose contact ..since large currents go through these contacts and wires ,loose contact is quite possible. It is better to have soldered joints and not get stranded in no where land in darkness, on a rainy day.(they happen that way ..don't they ?) And the most important fact, any one can start the bike by shorting the connector.

Psr'Jee , I am thinking of trying that on my Splendor+ experimentally . Hardwiring all electrical contacts by splicing the wires and then soldering nicely , then shrink-wrap the joint . I have bought all the necessary equipment . The work have to be spread over many weekends since there are too many such connectors in there(I have checked them all) , and I don't want to make a poor solder-joint in haste . If possible I may even solder the wires directly to the CDI/Flasher/RR/Ignition-coil etc unit's prongs and shrink-wrap them too . Opinions and advices I am getting is devided 50:50 on this

, so I am still thinking over all the pros and cons

. One thing I am certain about is hardwired like that a) the joints should not need further attention in the lifetime of a bike b) it would reduce a whole lot of electrical resistance from the wiring harness .

**paul.1911** · 09-16-2012, 03:44 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Psr'Jee , I am thinking of trying that on my Splendor+ experimentally . Hardwiring all electrical contacts by splicing the wires and then soldering nicely , then shrink-wrap the joint . I have bought all the necessary equipment . The work have to be spread over many weekends since there are too many such connectors in there(I have checked them all) , and I don't want to make a poor solder-joint in haste . If possible I may even solder the wires directly to the CDI/Flasher/RR/Ignition-coil etc unit's prongs and shrink-wrap them too . Opinions and advices I am getting is devided 50:50 on this

, so I am still thinking over all the pros and cons

. One thing I am certain about is hardwired like that a) the joints should not need further attention in the lifetime of a bike b) it would reduce a whole lot of electrical resistance from the wiring harness .

Man why did u want to solder everything

connectors are more reliable & durable then soldiered wires. I always try to use connecting links then soldering it because they can easily break when it become corroded.
I haven't need to check my connectors in a 9 years...they never created a problem even when dust enters.
believe me dont do this mistake...it will never create a problem.
I've never cut any clip or connectors in my life whatever electrical modification i've done in my bike. because once u cut it, u cant get back!

**psr** · 09-16-2012, 03:57 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Psr'Jee , I am thinking of trying that on my Splendor+ experimentally . Hardwiring all electrical contacts by splicing the wires and then soldering nicely , then shrink-wrap the joint . I have bought all the necessary equipment . The work have to be spread over many weekends since there are too many such connectors in there(I have checked them all) , and I don't want to make a poor solder-joint in haste . If possible I may even solder the wires directly to the CDI/Flasher/RR/Ignition-coil etc unit's prongs and shrink-wrap them too . Opinions and advices I am getting is devided 50:50 on this

, so I am still thinking over all the pros and cons

. One thing I am certain about is hardwired like that a) the joints should not need further attention in the lifetime of a bike b) it would reduce a whole lot of electrical resistance from the wiring harness .

Ji unless you have a problem, you don't have to do direct connection by soldering...Most Automobile connectors are robust and last for a long time.Problem arises when THICK wire cluster is connected to a frail connector,which over a period of time fails due to mechanical strain exerted by the bunch of wire on the connector..this is typical of the ZMA CDI connector..Periodical spraying of WD 40 during rainy season will keep moisture away from the connectors and keep them in good working condition.

**jpZMA** · 09-16-2012, 06:56 PM

fogs inside headlamp

@psr sir, while driving in heavy rain or servicing my bike i found some fogs inside the headlight reflector... after some time it removes. is there any problem??
Never opened the fairing. I am asking because i never faced such in my 4.5 years old hunk

**ashwinprakas** · 09-16-2012, 07:36 PM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

@psr sir, while driving in heavy rain or servicing my bike i found some fogs inside the headlight reflector... after some time it removes. is there any problem??
Never opened the fairing. I am asking because i never faced such in my 4.5 years old hunk

The headlight dome isnt sealed properly.
If its bothering you, the remove the dome and apply any strong adhesive to its joints.

**jpZMA** · 09-16-2012, 07:44 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

The headlight dome isnt sealed properly.
If its bothering you, the remove the dome and apply any strong adhesive to its joints.

Thanks ashwin for the quick response.
It may be a stupid one(i am a begineer)... but where is the dome situated? can you link me the DIY

Can i ask this during my 2nd free service or i can fix it myself?

**ashwinprakas** · 09-16-2012, 07:47 PM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

Thanks ashwin for the quick response.
It may be a stupid one(i am a begineer)... but where is the dome situated? can you link me the DIY

Its the thing inside which the bulb and pilots are situated. The front number plate is fixed to it.

**psr** · 09-16-2012, 11:18 PM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

@psr sir, while driving in heavy rain or servicing my bike i found some fogs inside the headlight reflector... after some time it removes. is there any problem??
Never opened the fairing. I am asking because i never faced such in my 4.5 years old hunk

Unless you are the DIY type with adequate knowledge ,do not try to fix it by yourself....You also say it is due for 2nd service which means your bike is in WARRANTY....so make a complaint at the time you leave the bike for service, and let the ASC fix it for you....
During warranty time do not do anything to negate the Warranty clause.

**sunny_** · 09-17-2012, 12:47 AM

Update on my ride condition:

1. 28 LED pilot lamps? Check!

2. New fork tube in front? Uncheck, mechanic says the tube can be set back in an upright position after some work at Lathe, should I go for it? or should I buy a new tube, which costs ~Rs1100?
coming soon...
3. Should I replace the steering cone set also?

4. New tyres? Uncheck, badly hunting for PSD

5. Ninja 250 R front disc pads? Uncheck
Posted a query regarding its life on average usage, someone please answer

6. Motul 7100 - the best oil till date, according to my experience.

7. NGK G power plug - a great plug, great performance

8. Lost to a friend's Chevy Cruze in 0 onwards acceleration, a number of times...not satisfied with the power now. need more and more and more...

**imjoshee** · 09-17-2012, 01:33 PM

Originally posted by shirish View Post

@imjoshee: nice review there bro. one small question btw, what was the cost of the ss

I had picked it up 6 months back from authorized dealer & costed me Rs. 2300/- without tube.

**SriramEfunds** · 09-18-2012, 02:06 AM

@Sunny_ :- Ninja disc pads will have more ply than nissin brake pads since the Nissin pads has 2mm extra thick plate upon which pad sits.

**jpZMA** · 09-18-2012, 09:02 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Unless you are the DIY type with adequate knowledge ,do not try to fix it by yourself....You also say it is due for 2nd service which means your bike is in WARRANTY....so make a complaint at the time you leave the bike for service, and let the ASC fix it for you....
During warranty time do not do anything to negate the Warranty clause.

Thank you sir, I will get it done at ASC.

Sir, Does NGK G-Power/iridium plug recommended for me in my new bike ?? How can I identify the plug suitable for ZMA (any spare number etc) ??
Please give me some tips regarding good performance & mileage.
I am getting an average 35 kmpl while my friends are getting 40+ in their 2011 ZMA

**ryan.virgo** · 09-18-2012, 11:25 AM

Hi Friends, am facing a issue, in heavy traffic I feel the bike heating a lot, I can feel the heat on the lower sides of the fuel tank too. At times the engine goes off, its like a sudden cut off when i accelerate from stop position. but it readily starts when i press the ingnation. What could be wrong here ? I face this problem only during peak traffic. I have been using Motul 3000 20w40 since the 3rd free service, During the 6th service I used Valvoline champ 4T SAE20W40.

But I dont think oil has anything to do with it as i faced this when using Motul as well.

My bike has completed 12K kms so far.

**phanikar** · 09-18-2012, 11:35 AM

Originally posted by ryan.virgo View Post

Hi Friends, am facing a issue, in heavy traffic I feel the bike heating a lot, I can feel the heat on the lower sides of the fuel tank too. At times the engine goes off, its like a sudden cut off when i accelerate from stop position. but it readily starts when i press the ingnation. What could be wrong here ? I face this problem only during peak traffic. I have been using Motul 3000 20w40 every since the 3rd free service, During the 6th service I used Valvoline champ 4T SAE20W40.

But I dont think oil has anything to do with it as i faced this when using Motul as well.

My bike has completed 12K kms so far.

Check on the idling. Most instances of improper idling has the rider to keep the rpm in excess of 2-3 rpm even when the bike is standstill. This in turn will generate unnecessary heat. Did you mean to stay the bike stalls on Accelerating or decelerating ??????

**psr** · 09-18-2012, 11:51 AM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

Sir, Does NGK G-Power/iridium plug recommended for me in my new bike ?? How can I identify the plug suitable for ZMA (any spare number etc) ??
Please give me some tips regarding good performance & mileage.
I am getting an average 35 kmpl while my friends are getting 40+ in their 2011 ZMA

To get the best FE slower acceleration and filling from a good Filling station are the best methods...Any FE of more than 38 will be a "lean" AF setting which will make the bike heat up and cause jerking,and sudden engine cut off .Further higher temperature means higher wear on the engine and parts.Hence not recommended...You can try NGK G-Power plug which gives good acceleration with FE. The NGK number is DPR 8 EGP.
Iridium is expensive and not warranted, and G power is VFM.

Originally posted by ryan.virgo View Post

Hi Friends, am facing a issue, in heavy traffic I feel the bike heating a lot, I can feel the heat on the lower sides of the fuel tank too. At times the engine goes off, its like a sudden cut off when i accelerate from stop position. but it readily starts when i press the ingnation. What could be wrong here ? I face this problem only during peak traffic. I have been using Motul 3000 20w40 since the 3rd free service, During the 6th service I used Valvoline champ 4T SAE20W40.
But I dont think oil has anything to do with it as i faced this when using Motul as well.

My bike has completed 12K kms so far.

Your Carburettor had been set up for higher FE and this had lead to a Lean Air Fuel Ratio...try turning the AFR screw by HALF a TURN ANTI CLOCKWISE to make the AFR richer..this will reduce engine heat,and the sudden stopping of engine when hot...your FE may reduce,depending on your riding style.

Announcement

Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment