@imjoshee: nice review there bro. one small question btw, what was the cost of the ss

Changed my stock HH engine oil to motul 20W40 at 1.6K
Here i got some difference
1. surprisingly tappet noise (it is common in all new model-2011) reduced to 75%
2. smoother than stock when on higher rev i.e. 4-5K
3. found some milege difference (slight lesser than stock)
4. Better throttle response

I am much excited for the performances after my run-in period.
I took my bike over 6k rpm and enjoyed the thrill on 90-100 kmph.. the bike was butter smooth till 5k i.e. 80kmph but i found some vibrations beyond 80kmph.
BTW The headlamp of ZMA really bad... I am planning for HID. can anyone suggest me for good one@cheaper price. I think philips costs more than 5k.

[QUOTE=siddhesh;855782][IMG]



[IMG][/IMG]


Oil leaking again from this area which has 3m bond seen in white color...how can i stop this....

[QUOTE=siddhesh;871116]Since the pic is too dark and details missing I am presuming it is the self start gear mechanism area ,on the left side(petrol tap side) ....there is a "O" ring which needs to be replaced to stop oil leak(part 19)....if you are unable to get one, then again remove the side cover CLEAN the cover and casing surfaces properly,re-apply 3 Bond and fix....

Mods of the day.

1. Cleaned slide and scraped off that black coating.
2. Raised needle by using a custom O ring made from a paper clip.
3. Cut off 4 coils from the carb spring.

Conclusion,
Bike has a noticeable power gain when throttle cracked open, but just a minor window and can be easily missed.
The main reason for opening the carb was to clean the slide, so as to solve the carb slide getting stuck, but after a few test runs, the slide got stuck again.

Hi all
a post after a long delay...
Yesterday @ 9PM I was riding my ZMA-R , there was enough traffic to make me stop . A flicked to neutral and suddenly the bike died - engine died , headlight and tail light died . I tried the indicator - to move to the edge of the road . That too wasn't working . Finally got a gap and pushed the bike to the left side . Took off the seats and checked the fuses - all seemed to be fine . Kick starting too wasn't working .
Contacted psr,Vineeth and Anesh@4GHZ and by then it started to drizzle . I pushed the bike a half km to my home .
Today morning , checked the fuses with a multimeter . All were fine , even the 5th one near the battery . Then something psr said triggered in my mind and I took off the H/L fairing . One of the wires going into the key unit was free ! Called all three and told them the problem and went to the office - even though it is a hartal day we have to sit in office unless someone asks to close down .
Came back by noon and went to work .
Tools used-
star screw driver , 8mm spanner/box spanner , soldering iron,solder flux , soldering lead .
The fairing was already removed . The bottom part of the unit where we insert the key has 3 star screws . By removing those , the bottom part comes off . The portion where the key is inserted is separate and stays on the bike . There is a plastic cover at the bottom which has to be removed by using a screw driver and pushing it up . then the points where the wires are soldered are seen . Re-soldered the wires and reversed the process to put it on the bike .
Photo bucket is not working right now so I'm uploading to xbhp itself .
Another thing that came to my mind is the need for a light for times when we are stranded on roads especially dark places . I am thinking about it and might be on to something in a few days .

im facing starting problem since last week,while running engine shut off(after some 2-3km or may be more),and refuse to start,all electricals work fine,after some time it get start and run perfect

Sadly I get more disappointed by reading the views about tyres and still puzzled on what to buy to stay in the peace zone of mind!

Can anyone comment on the life of the disc pads of Ninja 250R on our Karizma R? - to those who are already using it.

A Halogen will be both more reliable and cheaper. I and some others have got Philips Xtreme 55/60w and thats more than enough for night rides. I'm using it for more than a year now, that translates to some 20 thousand kilometers!

For the tyres:

front : stick to mrf
rear: Pirelli sport Demon 110/michellin m45.

Pic's of todays DIY.






Dirty slide.



Cleaned with the thing used to scrub plates. And needle raised, with a custom made O ring.



Shortened spring.

Some doubts ashwin
why did you cut the spring ? the return of the trottle will be disturbed no?

Don't you think by pulling out the the needle your top speed will be compromised? may be the pick up also? sure you will get more mileage.

pl. give the logic behind your actions.

With stock spring the slide wont completely come up, when throttle pinned at WOT, hence the shortening.

Actually by needle raised, I meant that an O ring was placed behind the needle(Cant see in the pics.) Which will increase clearance and give a mild boost to mid and top end.

Not sure if the mods are logical or not, just did for the sake of experimenting.

Sure, Fine and thanks

Thank you. M45 are out of stock since a long time here. Same story with the PSD.

@aswin please tell me the advantages of irridium/g-power over stock.
Can I get more milege switching to irridium/g power?
BTW 1.7K on ODO driving mostly on city.