Never put a socket at the end of a device to be plugged to a battery.....When you wire a pin to a battery and insert into a socket, the pin's front and body will be temporarily shorted( +12V and -ve will be shorted) in the process of inserting the pin....so the socket will be wired to the battery and pin to the device...
Nowadays we are getting bike mobile chargers for 75/- to 100/- with multi pin provision to suit any mobile...

+1^^^ Roots Mobile Chargers are available here,165rs for one which support many different handsets.

OK sir , I get your point - it should've come to my mind without a reminder ! . But the reason I thought like that is because the socket if connected to the battery may get some dust/dirt/rust on it which might be difficult to clean - a pin is easier to clean . A socket at the device end can be protected by oil or grease if need be without the risk of shorting the battery . Hmmm...well , Now I think I should go for RCA male/female combination or something like that . Come to think of it , a USB male/female too would do if it wasn't for the fragile wires .
I have mobile chargers which I use in my car (with multiple types of pins) . But the plug-in end is always the same type , that of a cigar lighter .

Sir, Thanks a lot for the picture, unless the fake plug could damage my bike. the paper cover was same as the picture but the plug has a shorter tip and nothing written on that.
BTW I asked about the retailer and he denied to replace. After a hard argument he agreed. but DPR8EGP was not available so i exchanged the fake one with two led pilot lamps

Thank you for your suggestion, I had already mailed to NGK about that. but i couldnot find the authorized dealer here.

Thanks friend, it really works. I am making this habbit, but in city ride conditions its a little difficult.

Woah! I thought was the only one who faced the slide stuck issue sometime last year. Now looking, there are more than me. Also, my problem disappeared over the period of time and won't wish to surface again. But trust me it gave some hard times during the road trips. Learned to live with it and the recently never faced any.

Ashwin:- Try to losen the slide by inserting your finger and gently lift, most probably it gets the job done. If it is really hard stuck, then cover the scew driver with cloth so the edges don't damage the slide as PSR sir warned and gently lift.

Its common I assume. Aneesh bro, Me, You, Sunny bro, PSR sir have face it, till now. Either sooner or later, it'll surface for sure.
As a remedy I've cleaned the slide using the metal scrub used to wash plates, but even after that the slide seized, so this time, raised it and then added a considerable amount of 2T oil to fuel, been running fine, period.

Before cleaning the slide, I could raise the slide, with my finger when seized, but after cleaning it was dead stuck, hence the screw driver. And no worries. The bottom of the carb slide doesnt come in contact with anything, the only thing there is a small hole, and I assume the screw driver would'nt foul with it.

I had the problem just once and after properly cleaning the slide surface never faced it...If some small piece is left behind while cleaning also the slide will get stuck...you need to inspect the slide thoroughly till it's neck area ,all around and clean it...

> Petronas Sprinta 5000 10w40 Fully Synthetic (1.2k kms done.)

In simple words, Its a Yamalube 20w40 Mineral, that'd never give up, no matter how hard you rip the engine. The bike can be ripped right from idle after a cold start and there'd be no bogging at all, in all my previous experiences, the bike took around 5~10Mins of slow riding for the engine to properly warm up. Performance while hooning has also improved by leaps, you can rev from 2~8k RPM without the added drama of engine strain. Gearshifts have improved, but only after running for around 1k. Long story short, this oil's perfect for people who love to rev their engines hard, cause with this no matter how hard you thrash it, it still begs for more. Pretty neat huh? Especially for 445/-.

> Carb mod's.

Loads and loads of useable torque, the torque has been concentrated in the mid end. Means even in final gear, you can overtake with just a flick of the wrist, no downshifting and this in my case is with around 200+Kg's on board. Which is pretty neat.The improvement is noticeable from 3~7k, after which the engine comes close to hitting the brick wall, which is the result of my 140mains, but am sure no such issue would surface if running on stock jets. And guys, you know the very familiar throttle lag, which surfaces when hooning, yeah, Its completely eliminated. Means even if you dowshift hard enough to over rev the engine and come to a halt and then accelerate hard, there'd still be no throttle lag. The acceleration gain in mid end, can be compared to that of a P200NS, cause thats how I felt after riding both bikes with the same pillion.

Im currently running with the needle raised to around a mm, and the spring shortened by 4coils. In the future, am planning on raising the needle to 2mm, and then leaning out the main jet, with a copper wire. @PSR Sir, will do a through cleaning when I open up to do the above mods. Can you recommend, any solution for cleaning it? Its currently running fine after raising slide, and using 2T mix.

Yesterday I went to svc for my 2nd servicing at 2539 kms. general check-ups are done.
I asked for the svc guys about the head light dome (at that time there was no water/vapour inside the dome due to sunny weather), after checking they told that there was no problem. after little argument with the supervisor, they said they can only repair it as there is no warranty on plastic parts.
BTW I notice that water found inside the dome only on rainy weather. so i am waiting for the next servicing to repair that.
Can anyone know the price of headlight dome??

Another thing, while asking SVC guys about upgrading to 55/60w H4 bulb, they said it may damage essential parts/drain battery. Is it true??

May I avail some suggestions about brighter headlight for my 2012 ZMA??
I went to market & found Philips blue vision/xtreme vision 4000k having 55/60W in a car store for 1200rs/pair, but the shopkeeper said it is not recommended in bikes. please help me guys.

jpZMA- We have already discussed about bulbs in detail in the past. Kindly flip back and go through. Get back if still have questions

Hello ol' friends! How are you all? I wanted to ask an oil query for my trusty Zma, here goes.

I have been using the Motul 15w50 semi synthetic oil for quite some time now. Love the smoothness of it and the overall improvements in midrange etc. But did not quite like the stiffness it caused in the gears and wanted a change. Went out looking for the Petronas but wasnt available in this side of Mumbai, with dealers saying company has shut shop etc. The Motul 7100 10w40 FS was there and picked it. Its for the first time am trying a fully synthetic, so wanted to know your opinions on this variant.

The main criteria of getting the oil was performance & smoother gear shifts. Mileage is taken care of any way!

Have been using the full synth 10W40 Advance AX7 stuff from Shell over the last 5k kms. Spectacular oil this.
Revvy engine, smooth shifts et all !

Worth a look if one is planning to go beyond mineral oils.

Cheers !

I had already posted about the short term experience of Motul 7100 FS, 8k rpms seem to be an easier game now and gear shifts smoothness' is worth mentioning. Most importantly, push the button once in the morning and the bike comes to life without any hassle!

Hi friends,
After waiting 4 days I got replaced my headlight dome under warranty. Thanks to Hero motocorp & shree bharat motors, Bhubaneswar.

I replaced my head lamp from stock to OSRAM blue vision 35W and also my pilot lamps to LEDs
I am waiting for the evening.