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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • #12691
    Originally posted by MavericK46 View Post
    Have been using the full synth 10W40 Advance AX7 stuff from Shell over the last 5k kms. Spectacular oil this.
    Revvy engine, smooth shifts et all !

    Worth a look if one is planning to go beyond mineral oils.

    Cheers !
    Thanks mate, Shells on top of the mind once am done with this.

    Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
    I had already posted about the short term experience of Motul 7100 FS, 8k rpms seem to be an easier game now and gear shifts smoothness' is worth mentioning. Most importantly, push the button once in the morning and the bike comes to life without any hassle!
    Thanks man! Did not read it but looking forward to some good experiences and long hauls with it.
    Cheers!

    Anybody here tried the Mobil Delvac 15w40 on their Karizmas? Please share some experiences.
    Last edited by myg124; 09-28-2012, 05:43 PM.
    "Never recreate from your memory, always imagine new places"

    Comment

    • #12692
      The LEDs are way brighter than the stock ones. But 35W OSRAM is same as the stock bearing white light. but I love the bluish effect on the headlight reflector during daytime.

      I feel a little hard on gear shifting. I thing this is due to improper clutch setting. My clutch is too hard, so my hand becomes stiff during long city drives. Can anyone guide me for the perfect clutch set-up?
      I really can't define myself without my bike

      Comment

      • #12693
        Originally posted by jpZMA View Post
        The LEDs are way brighter than the stock ones. But 35W OSRAM is same as the stock bearing white light. but I love the bluish effect on the headlight reflector during daytime.

        I feel a little hard on gear shifting. I thing this is due to improper clutch setting. My clutch is too hard, so my hand becomes stiff during long city drives. Can anyone guide me for the perfect clutch set-up?
        If your bike is standing outside ,exposed to the elements,there is good chance that the cables will get rusted and makes the clutch and accelerator very stiff...in this case you need to lubricate them..
        secondly the clutch lever should be adjusted for 5mm end play with the help of adjusting screw at the right side,(rear brake side) near the engine.
        Attached Files
        When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

        Comment

        • #12694
          Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
          Also do think about including a resistor from battery side. Cause then in the future you'd be able to use the plug for more than just supply your torch i.e recharge phone etc.
          Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
          That too is on my mind ,but not the way you visualize - for that I'll have to strip down a working car charger and replace the plugging - in end with a socket .
          Originally posted by psr View Post

          Nowadays we are getting bike mobile chargers for 75/- to 100/- with multi pin provision to suit any mobile...
          Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
          +1^^^ Roots Mobile Chargers are available here,165rs for one which support many different handsets.
          Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

          I have mobile chargers which I use in my car (with multiple types of pins) . But the plug-in end is always the same type , that of a cigar lighter .
          Well , I saw the charger mentioned and bought it . It is a ready made solution . It has a hole for bolting on . One thing I don't feel comfortable is it being on all the time . So I intend to add a switch to the positive terminal (with regard to the charger only ) . Since I am using Nokia C7 I didn't ask for other type of pins . Pics added .
          Attached Files
          sigpic

          Comment

          • #12695
            Here is a comprehensive graph to show AFR setting, Power and resultant gases in Exhaust...this will help us to understand the tuning and it's repercussions...

            When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

            Comment

            • #12696
              Originally posted by jpZMA View Post
              Hi friends,
              After waiting 4 days I got replaced my headlight dome under warranty. Thanks to Hero motocorp & shree bharat motors, Bhubaneswar.

              I replaced my head lamp from stock to OSRAM blue vision 35W and also my pilot lamps to LEDs
              I am waiting for the evening.
              I don't find any reason switching from a 35w to another 35w just for the change from yellow to blue!

              Comment

              • #12697
                Originally posted by psr View Post
                If your bike is standing outside ,exposed to the elements,there is good chance that the cables will get rusted and makes the clutch and accelerator very stiff...in this case you need to lubricate them..
                secondly the clutch lever should be adjusted for 5mm end play with the help of adjusting screw at the right side,(rear brake side) near the engine.
                My bike is just one month & svc guys lubricated the clutch 6-7 days back. all I need to adjust the said free play. Thank you sir.

                Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
                I don't find any reason switching from a 35w to another 35w just for the change from yellow to blue!
                Yes friend, you are right. But I just got afraid about the reflector burn due to 55/60w bulb (as suggested by a friend having 2011 ZMA)
                I think you have a pre 2011 ZMA, so your reflector quality should be better than 2012 ZMA

                I also need advice regarding the reflector quality of 2012/11 ZMA & permission from Experts for installing a 55/60W headlamp.
                Thanks in advance
                Last edited by jpZMA; 09-30-2012, 10:14 AM.
                I really can't define myself without my bike

                Comment

                • #12698
                  Originally posted by jpZMA View Post
                  ..............

                  Yes friend, you are right. But I just got afraid about the reflector burn due to 55/60w bulb (as suggested by a friend having 2011 ZMA)
                  I think you have a pre 2011 ZMA, so your reflector quality should be better than 2012 ZMA

                  I also need advice regarding the reflector quality of 2012/11 ZMA & permission from Experts for installing a 55/60W headlamp.
                  Thanks in advance
                  IMO , the additional light given out by the 55/60 out scores the reflector burn though I am not sure about the extent of burn in a post 2011 ZMA . Another problem is that I think newer ZMAs come with 6ah battery . If that is the case there might be problems such as time/tripmeter resetting,dimming of H/L when using brake/indicator/horn etc . For best result plonk in a 9ah battery and upgrade to 55/60 H/L with relay . Alternatively you can degrade the tail light bulbs to 5/10W each and the indicators to 10W (for that you have to change the flasher unit) and change the park lights to LED .
                  @PSR , how do I check the wattage/amperage of the LED bulb I have ? I have a digital multi meter .
                  sigpic

                  Comment

                  • #12699
                    Originally posted by jpZMA View Post
                    My bike is just one month & svc guys lubricated the clutch 6-7 days back. all I need to adjust the said free play. Thank you sir.


                    Yes friend, you are right. But I just got afraid about the reflector burn due to 55/60w bulb (as suggested by a friend having 2011 ZMA)
                    I think you have a pre 2011 ZMA, so your reflector quality should be better than 2012 ZMA

                    I also need advice regarding the reflector quality of 2012/11 ZMA & permission from Experts for installing a 55/60W headlamp.
                    Thanks in advance
                    Yeah, I don't know about better reflectors but mine also had a burnt line in the centre upwards. But the point is its so since last 20k kilometers (can you imagine?) and the light spread and throw of the high beam of what I'm using (Philips Xtreme 55/60w) is anyday better than a 35w. If going for it then, don't forget to connect a relay to get max output. Also, follow what Arun Sir said. Later, your wish. But I can't compromise on visibility and so found that solution better.

                    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                    @PSR , how do I check the wattage/amperage of the LED bulb I have ? I have a digital multi meter .
                    According to me, connecting the LED to a potential difference of 12V (because I think thats what goes to the pilot lamps) and then measuring the current through it using your multimeter (say "I" amperes), then you'll get the wattage of the LED as (12 times I) watts (for DC setup only).
                    E.g. V = 12V and I = 4 amperes
                    then Power, P = V*I = 48 watts

                    Comment

                    • #12700
                      Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                      @PSR , how do I check the wattage/amperage of the LED bulb I have ? I have a digital multi meter .
                      The Wattage of any device is as per it's spec., defined either by the same mentioned on the device, or by the type or model no mentioned on the device...For a LED if you don't have any of this, then knowing it's wattage or ampere is impossible....if you want to check the current through the LED then you can try connecting the circuit in series with the Digital meter....For safety sake calculate the series resistance of LED for a current of 20 ma through the LED...for instance you have 12 Vs supply and you want to check a LED , assuming 3Volts for a power LED balance 9 Vs have to be dropped in the resistor at 20 ma...ie., 450 Ohms. for normal small type LEDs the voltage drop is approximately 2.7 volts...
                      The Ohms Law is I=V/R..I is current, V is voltage and R is resistor.
                      Last edited by psr; 09-30-2012, 01:58 PM.
                      When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                      Comment

                      • #12701
                        Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
                        ................
                        According to me, connecting the LED to a potential difference of 12V (because I think thats what goes to the pilot lamps) and then measuring the current through it using your multimeter (say "I" amperes), then you'll get the wattage of the LED as (12 times I) watts (for DC setup only).
                        E.g. V = 12V and I = 4 amperes
                        then Power, P = V*I = 48 watts
                        Originally posted by psr View Post
                        The Wattage of any device is as per it's spec., defined either by the same mentioned on the device, or by the type or model no mentioned on the device...For a LED if you don't have any of this, then knowing it's wattage or ampere is impossible....if you want to check the current through the LED then you can try connecting the circuit in series with the Digital meter....For safety sake calculate the series resistance of LED for a current of 20 ma through the LED...for instance you have 12 Vs supply and you want to check a LED , assuming 3Volts for a power LED balance 9 Vs have to be dropped in the resistor at 20 ma...ie., 450 Ohms. for normal small type LEDs the voltage drop is approximately 2.7 volts...
                        The Ohms Law is I=V/R..I is current, V is voltage and R is resistor.
                        The LED I was referring to is a 12V 28LED cluster meant for use as park light in a vehicle . Sorry not to have mentioned in earlier post . I connected the LED as per psr sir's diag and the values were fluctuating between 150.0 to 159.0 . What does that mean ? The power supply was a 12V 1amp adapter .Click image for larger version Name: bbbb.jpg Views: 1 Size: 50.7 KB ID: 1831279
                        sigpic

                        Comment

                        • #12702
                          Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                          .[ATTACH=CONFIG]82161[/ATTACH]
                          Me using that same multimeter. And when I checked TPS values with that, it registered higher values than it was supposed to show, as per psr sir's observations.
                          Motorcycling Experience:
                          2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
                          2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
                          2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
                          2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
                          2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
                          2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

                          The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
                          Adios Comrades!
                          A.P. 2018

                          Comment

                          • #12703
                            Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                            The LED I was referring to is a 12V 28LED cluster meant for use as park light in a vehicle . Sorry not to have mentioned in earlier post . I connected the LED as per psr sir's diag and the values were fluctuating between 150.0 to 159.0 . What does that mean ? The power supply was a 12V 1amp adapter.

                            The connection might be loose at some point, OR this might happen in case resistance is varied(loose connection) or the voltage supply from the battery is not constant with time by any chance(which is very much possible). PSR Sir can explain further in a detailed manner.

                            Comment

                            • #12704
                              Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                              The LED I was referring to is a 12V 28LED cluster meant for use as park light in a vehicle . Sorry not to have mentioned in earlier post . I connected the LED as per psr sir's diag and the values were fluctuating between 150.0 to 159.0 . What does that mean ? The power supply was a 12V 1amp adapter .
                              Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
                              The connection might be loose at some point, OR this might happen in case resistance is varied(loose connection) or the voltage supply from the battery is not constant with time by any chance(which is very much possible). PSR Sir can explain further in a detailed manner.
                              Assuming the value shown as correct ( well,fluctuating of course , but within a range) the equation 'volt x amps = watts ' gives a value of 1.8 to 1.9 watts . If it is correct then the @2W consumption figure for an LED bulb will be OK ...
                              Next I'll check it with a normal LED connected to a 3v adapter .
                              sigpic

                              Comment

                              • #12705
                                Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                                The LED I was referring to is a 12V 28LED cluster meant for use as park light in a vehicle . Sorry not to have mentioned in earlier post . I connected the LED as per psr sir's diag and the values were fluctuating between 150.0 to 159.0 . What does that mean ? The power supply was a 12V 1amp adapter .
                                The Meter shows 155.8 ma...so 12 X 155 =1860 ./1,000 = 1.86 watts...the fluctuation in reading could be due to unstable power.
                                Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
                                Me using that same multimeter. And when I checked TPS values with that, it registered higher values than it was supposed to show, as per psr sir's observations.
                                The TPS should show 5 K Ohms end to end and ,500 Ohms from center to one end and 4.5 K from the other end to center..Post what were your findings and will let you know if there is any problem...

                                Originally posted by sunny_ View Post
                                The connection might be loose at some point, OR this might happen in case resistance is varied(loose connection) or the voltage supply from the battery is not constant with time by any chance(which is very much possible). PSR Sir can explain further in a detailed manner.
                                yes what you have said is possible.

                                Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
                                Assuming the value shown as correct ( well,fluctuating of course , but within a range) the equation 'volt x amps = watts ' gives a value of 1.8 to 1.9 watts . If it is correct then the @2W consumption figure for an LED bulb will be OK ...
                                Next I'll check it with a normal LED connected to a 3v adapter .
                                Your calculations are correct..you are the electronics man here..
                                Last edited by psr; 10-01-2012, 11:03 PM.
                                When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                                Comment

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