Stock one is 7Ah Amco.

+1^^ Get Stock Filter.Replace Filter and Sparkplug every 10000kms for best performance.


Motul 3000 4T Plus 20W40 Mineral Oil.

bike performance was reduced drastically,belove3000rpm there was some drag,engine was not free reeving and i observed leakage or sensetion when cover air screw by finger,may be due to rubber o ring wear,and couldnt found new o ring so had to take air screw set, changed air screw now running fine.left one is new and right side is oldone

Stock is 7 Ah .If your battery is nearing the end of it's life , upgrade to 9 Ah battery . Then the change to 55/60 W H/L with relay will give you immense satisfaction . The visibility will increase multi-fold ! Even without the battery change the result will be great ,but there will be compromises to be made in the form of tripmeter/clock resetting .

Very nice calipers and a self-explanatory pic . Good that you zeroed in on the exact problem correctly . Kari's AFR(air-fuel-ratio) screw is a fuel-screw , nahi ?

Ok this LED fitted in parking light. By the I'm changing my CFL and Bulb with LED's in my home
1- The Philips Xtreme vision 55/60w come with relay kit or I have to purchase separately. Well I have 9 Ah battery Amron ding dong
2- Now is come to change Air filter and spark plug. Any good brand other than Boch even which particular model should I have to select. Thanks Aneesh@4GHz for mentioning 10000 Km thing.
3- Here is my upload of my faded fuel tank






Mate I recently changed my stock battery 7 Ah to 9Ah but I saw in night whenever blow up my horn the light goes very little bit low, seen easily by naked eye.

No, you have to purchase it separately for 60-80 rs, bulb costs around 550rsfor air filter, you should stick to the stock one, & for spark plug go for NGK G-Power (DPR8EGP), The VFM product or you can try NGK iridium ix (DPR8EIX)Friend, i think you have to repaint the total tank. You have silver stickers (I thought you have golden 3D stickers). i think you can get those in market. BTW where are you from?are you using dual horns without relay? otherwise its normal & negligible.

my zma has an minor oil leakage from top of the head. Is this a serious issue,what could be the problem.
By the way i am a new user and this is my first post.

welcome to xbhp
Can you upload some pictures so that experts can trace the problem
please do provide your year, model & kms covered.
Have you ever opened the head??
it may be due to the defect head seal.

LOL , Ashwin , I don't see any pads there on the old ones .

i am using apache rtr pads too on my ZMA. They do a decent job but the original nissin are top notch.

No bulb comes with relay - except for the HID ones .
If you're willing to experiment and DIY , try ZEN mpfi's air filter . Search back and you'll find my DIY post .
As far as feed backs go , NGK G-Power is best VFM .
Whatever your Battery rating , install separate relays for every additional load - horns or lights .
Iridium is a good plug , but IMO it's OK only for extreme users .

As far as VFM is concerned how do you rate them ?

Ordinary bulbs are really VFM,just 50rs. You can get the original ones from Maruti Genuine Spares.

+1^^ Get NGK G-Power.Iridium is waste of money.

Yes,me too had the same problem.Repainting is the only solution.I was quoted 900RS for repainting the whole tank here.

No,Its obsolete now.

Welcome to the forum.

Might be head gasket problem.Have a Look HERE.

Me too.

Guys, my brake pads were fine the last time I checked, and the fluid level was also ok, somewhere in the mid region. Its been a while since i've taken my bike out, so after warming it up took it for a ride, and since the roads were empty I gunned the throttle, but soon had to panic brake cause of a female rider, the bike braked as usual, but mid slowing down, it started to make a loud screatching noise, and started throwing out sparks, so as soon as the bike came to a stop, parked it, and checked the the disk, what seems to be the brake pad material, had crumbled and broken off, some of it were melted stuck to the calipper body. And the disk rotor was completely (but uniformly scratched.) Now am completely clueless, why it happened so, the bike wasnt ridden for the past days and parked outside, and as far as I recollect nothing out of the ordinary has happened, so what was the reason for the brake pads giving out like this???

In the comparisson pic, if you look at the bottom right corner of the old pad, you could see that the region grinded against the rotor so bad that it looks like its been chrome plated.



RTR Pads are 4/5 comparing Nissin stock, but I cant be sure, cause since my rotor is all scratched up, the added friction might be misguiding me.
If you want more VFM go for ASK pads for CBZ-X direct fit on ZMA, and costs only 110/- used by Arun from Trivandrum, and he's a satisfied user as well.

Oh and BTW me changed fluid to DOT3. And in the process deformed the bleed nut

Brake pad material failure like this happens invariably owing to excessive heat build-up quickly , beyond the limit the pad material can take anymore . Try to find out how heat/friction could have happened there , so that it does not happen again .