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**ashwinprakas** · 10-28-2012, 10:57 AM

I've noticed one thing in peculiar, after riding for a couple of KM's and monitoring the new pad's I stumbled upon this.

The new pads are showing signs of accelerated wear in the same region which I mentioned before appeared like chrome plated in the old pads.

So just to experiment, I pressed the brake lever after the pads were removed, and found that one of em(the one close to the brake line) would push out faster than the other, and coincidentally the one which was coming out faster was the piston behind the region where both new and old pads have accelerated wear.

**sibun** · 10-28-2012, 11:18 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

I've noticed one thing in peculiar, after riding for a couple of KM's and monitoring the new pad's I stumbled upon this.The new pads are showing signs of accelerated wear in the same region which I mentioned before appeared like chrome plated in the old pads.So just to experiment, I pressed the brake lever after the pads were removed, and found that one of em(the one close to the brake line) would push out faster than the other, and coincidentally the one which was coming out faster was the piston behind the region where both new and old pads have accelerated wear.

It is normal for top piston to push out faster than lower piston.Also the pad will wear initially from lower surface.But however check whether the lower piston is jammed or is ok.If the caliper is having problem, get a caliper overhaul kit and service the caliper.

**nithin2767** · 10-28-2012, 11:19 AM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

As far as VFM is concerned how do you rate them ?

I would rate them 4/5. They are the best alternative one can source to nissin as they are TVS OEM with almost 1/4th the price of HH OEM.

**Vishakh** · 10-28-2012, 04:36 PM

Ashwin my rotor is having similar scratches. I think its normal. My brake feedback is good as of now. And brake pad failure

thats scary. I think there is a problem with your caliper after seeing the wear pattern of the new pad. I hope experts can pinpoint the fault.

**krish** · 10-28-2012, 10:04 PM

Maybe its time to change the disc. I also had a similar problem where my bike was used after the brake pads had worn out. The discs got damaged and I had to replace it. Btw, I too bought the RTR pads instead of ZMA ones and they are working fine till date. Braking efficiency is also as good as the original pads.

Btw, I brought my bike back and finally after almost 1.5 years, I'm back to using my ZMA. Got the AFR set to 3.5 turns as suggested by @psr. Hope to get back to full time riding soon.

Some pics of my ZMA

**ashwinprakas** · 10-29-2012, 12:09 AM

Originally posted by krish View Post

The discs got damaged and I had to replace it.

Whats the cost?

**krish** · 10-29-2012, 12:40 PM

It was around 1400-1500 (inc labour) in bangalore. Its been almost 2 yrs since that time and my memory could be wrong as well.

**nithin2767** · 10-29-2012, 04:11 PM

Changed my engine oil to shell advance ax7 ss (10w40) yesterday. Had valvoline 4t premium ss (20w50) previously. Shell advance ax7 seems smoother for the engine but the gear shifts were better in valvoline(May be it was the effect of 20w50). As winter is approaching i wanted to shift to low viscosity.

**krish** · 10-29-2012, 04:54 PM

I'm having a new problem in the bike. After a ride, if I put the bike in neutral and then keep it idle, it switches off after some time. Then I have to kick 4-5 times to bring the bike back to life. Whereas, if I switch off the bike, then its starts in first attempt itself.

I'm using the kick start since the battery seems to need replacing after a year or so of non-use. Re-charging didnt help.

**Shabeer Khan** · 10-29-2012, 09:18 PM

Today changed the engine oil from 10W30 herohonda oil to 20W40 Gulf 4T plus. Engine has become slightly more refined even though my bike doesnt lack any refinement but still my mind wants more. I know its too early for any judgments but going by Psr sirs advice to many it shouldnt be bad, will let know whats the effect on runs.

**NIGHTMARE** · 10-29-2012, 11:14 PM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

No, you have to purchase it separately for 60-80 rs, bulb costs around 550rsfor air filter, you should stick to the stock one, & for spark plug go for NGK G-Power (DPR8EGP), The VFM product or you can try NGK iridium ix (DPR8EIX)Friend, i think you have to repaint the total tank. You have silver stickers (I thought you have golden 3D stickers). i think you can get those in market. BTW where are you from?are you using dual horns without relay? otherwise its normal & negligible.

Ok. I will stick stock air filter.
I think this Philips bulb we are talking about. This bulb are for car or bike and what about this one

I found NGK G- Power spark. And what these code represent DPR8EGP and BKR6EGP ?

Yes I have repaint the tank. I can't those sticker in market shop keeper have local Karizma- R sticker. I'm from Kanpur U.P. Yes using relay for dual horn.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

No bulb comes with relay - except for the HID ones .
If you're willing to experiment and DIY , try ZEN mpfi's air filter . Search back and you'll find my DIY post .
As far as feed backs go , NGK G-Power is best VFM .
Whatever your Battery rating , install separate relays for every additional load - horns or lights .

Iridium is a good plug , but IMO it's OK only for extreme users .

As far as VFM is concerned how do you rate them ?

Thanks, what about Splitfire plug and have you changed the spark plug cord ?

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Ordinary bulbs are really VFM,just 50rs. You can get the original ones from Maruti Genuine Spares.

+1^^ Get NGK G-Power.Iridium is waste of money.

Yes,me too had the same problem.Repainting is the only solution.I was quoted 900RS for repainting the whole tank here.

No,Its obsolete now.

Welcome to the forum.

Might be head gasket problem.Have a Look HERE.

Me too.

Philips bulb will avialable in Maruti spare part shop and what about NGK spark plug.

Have you seen what type of paint they going to use on your bike like shade , metalic, brand and what about whole body because once you painted your tank the bike body will color looks lit bit fade due to your shining tank.

**nithin2767** · 10-30-2012, 12:24 AM

Here is what i did to get rid of cowl vibrations in my ZMA last year.
I just fastened the headlight to the support rod under it.
Hoping this would help others i uploaded the images how i did it(please excuse if the picture quality is poor).

Here is how i did that:
>There is a support rod which you can find under the headlight assy. (see first picture).
>Removed the rubber from the support rod and i had a chance to put on a bolt (Second picture).
>I drilled a hole in the headlight assy exactly parallel to the hole of support rod by heating a screw driver. The hole must be enough to tighten a 10mm bolt(the place where the hole is drilled is shown by green aarrow in both second and third pic).
>I placed a nut as a spacer(red arrow third pic) in between the rod and the headlight assy to ensure the cowl is not pulled down and fastened a 10mm 1 inch bolt from bottom.
>Now i tried it through the worst bumps and noticed that the vibrations were almost gone.
Experts please let me know your opinion.

**jpZMA** · 10-30-2012, 10:07 AM

Hi friends, Recently I have completed 380 kms round trip (1st trip on my ZMA) which includes 60% highway & 40% sub highway with village area.In this trip my average on highway & sub-highway is 100km/hr & 60 km/hr respectively.

My experience

The bike is butter smooth till 90 km/hr but found vibrations after that, the rate of acceleration till 80-90 km/hr is far greater than that between 90-121 km/hr (My highest speed was 121)
The headlamps are worst in the highway
Highway breaking is awsome compare to my old hunk.
Found very low ground clearance, i.e the main stand hits almost all big bumps.
The tappet noise getting worse
I got an average 36 km/litre.
After all I can say that ZMA is a perfect tourer

After return I got replaced my stock plug to G-Power (DPR8EGP-9)
my stock plug is

@all, can you read my plug & say whether its running perfect or not (lean or rich).
I want to know the difference between DPR8EGP & DPR8EGP-9, are they equal ??

**s1d** · 10-30-2012, 10:50 AM

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

@all, can you read my plug & say whether its running perfect or not (lean or rich).

That is L E A N !! (and could also be caused due to bad fuel), please get your bike tuned a little richer and try fuel from a different bunk and check again.

**psr** · 10-30-2012, 01:04 PM

Originally posted by krish View Post

I'm having a new problem in the bike. After a ride, if I put the bike in neutral and then keep it idle, it switches off after some time. Then I have to kick 4-5 times to bring the bike back to life. Whereas, if I switch off the bike, then its starts in first attempt itself.
I'm using the kick start since the battery seems to need replacing after a year or so of non-use. Re-charging didnt help.

Your AFR seems to be a bit lean,and carburetor may also need cleaning...Close the petrol tap, and then open the screw at the bottom of carburetor to let out float bowl debris....re-tighten the screw, open petrol tap start and ride ,and then check if problem exist.

Originally posted by Shabeer Khan View Post

Today changed the engine oil from 10W30 herohonda oil to 20W40 Gulf 4T plus. Engine has become slightly more refined even though my bike doesnt lack any refinement but still my mind wants more. I know its too early for any judgments but going by Psr sirs advice to many it shouldnt be bad, will let know whats the effect on runs.

By far the Gulf Pride 20w40 is VFM, and is yet to see duplicate in this oil...all mineral oil of 20w40 will last for 2,000 Kms or 2,500 Kms if rider does sane riding....it is not advisable to retain the oil beyond 2,500 kms.

Originally posted by NIGHTMARE View Post

Ok. I will stick stock air filter.
I think this Philips bulb we are talking about. This bulb are for car or bike and what about this one

I found NGK G- Power spark. And what these code represent DPR8EGP and BKR6EGP ?

Yes I have repaint the tank. I can't those sticker in market shop keeper have local Karizma- R sticker. I'm from Kanpur U.P. Yes using relay for dual horn.
Thanks, what about Splitfire plug and have you changed the spark plug cord ?
Philips bulb will avialable in Maruti spare part shop and what about NGK spark plug.
Have you seen what type of paint they going to use on your bike like shade , metalic, brand and what about whole body because once you painted your tank the bike body will color looks lit bit fade due to your shining tank.

NGK DPR 6 EGP is a hotter Plug and will cause knocking in ZMA .DPR 8 EGP is the recommended G power for ZMA.For better night time driving switch to Philips or Halonix 55/60 Watts head light bulb used in most Maruthi cars.

Originally posted by jpZMA View Post

Hi friends, Recently I have completed 380 kms round trip (1st trip on my ZMA) which includes 60% highway & 40% sub highway with village area.In this trip my average on highway & sub-highway is 100km/hr & 60 km/hr respectively.
My experience
The bike is butter smooth till 90 km/hr but found vibrations after that, the rate of acceleration till 80-90 km/hr is far greater than that between 90-121 km/hr (My highest speed was 121)
The headlamps are worst in the highway
After all I can say that ZMA is a perfect tourer
After return I got replaced my stock plug to G-Power (DPR8EGP-9)
my stock plug is
[ATTACH=CONFIG]84721[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]84723[/ATTACH]

@all, can you read my plug & say whether its running perfect or not (lean or rich).
I want to know the difference between DPR8EGP & DPR8EGP-9, are they equal ??

Your plug shows lean running, so adjust for getting the AFR right. For goof Head Lights The 55/60 Watts Halogen used in Maruthi cars can be used in ZMA...
NGK DPR 8 EGP is same as DPR 8 EGP-9 except that the EGP-9 comes with a factory pre-set gap of 0.9mm,and the normal EGP plug gap must be set as required.

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