When I got the delivery of my bike it was in the softest setting. And it used to hit bottom. So I changed to the hardest setting. And it was bouncing and too stiff. So again changed to middle setting and so far its good . Seems like you run on potholes which are less deeper than i run into .

You would be surprised, if I post a pic of the roads that I run through. They are crap. And the after effect was evident after a month of riding, the front fairing was rattling like anything.

Which is the best spark plug for Karizma? Should i go for ngk g power or ngk iridium? I think there are new products from bosch also is it compatible? has any one tried?

And what difference is there performance wise between g power and iridium? anything worth mentioning or both are same? Planning to go for iridium plug

Any idea how much a center stand would cost?

Nooooooooooooo!!!! Dont go for Iridiums. They're not worth the cost.

Go for the G Power one's.

@PSR Sir,
Sir, did the 60Kmph test like you said and the only noticeable noise was the timing chain one, and when we close the throttle @60Kmph the timing chain noise is abit louder but still not that bold to get worried about. Or so I guess .

And sir, today the bike started acting up again, but this time it's an electrical issue. While riding back I was negotiating a turn and when I honked the horn it worked but only after a delay of 2~3Secs. Later on the horn completely stopped working. So I turned the engine off and tried honking, but nothing happened, so tuned off the headlamp and honked a PUK sound came and that was it, so this time also turned off the pilots and honked again, this time everything worked well, so repeated back wards and the symptoms started showing up in reverse. So now am abit confused on what to do, so what should I do

The Horn am using now is a Tractor horn, with the same power specs as the stock horn.

And the irony in all this was that, before starting my journey back, I turned on the ignition and the lights came up, and everyone was like, hey your battery will die and all that, and I was like..."He...He..He... Never!!!" And now this...

I guess "G" is better . I'm using Iridium and have no complaints . But I think Iridiums are best suited for performance ( I guess it means high RPM ) engines . PSR is using 'G' and he says it gives better mileage . I believe him . Also the cost of Iridium is way too high .
Check the horn by connecting it directly to the battery with 2 pieces of wires , if it's OK , then connect another horn to the bike's horn connection wire . That way you can find out if it's your horn that's gone or your relay . BTW I am guessing you have a relay . If you don't then you might have to check the horn switch assy . Also it's a good idea to check the battery voltage with the engine running and engine switched off .

between 200-300rs.

What you talking about? I'm also getting some "growling" sound when I close the throttle, specially in the range 50-80 kmph, sound is similar to the heavy vehicles (their engine + tires sound kinda) when they move on highways on high speeds ... I hope you understand But I'm ignoring it

Sure!

Mileage issue

Seems I'm bad at maths as I've believed . Normally I get @ 27 - 29 kmph with my in town ripping ( 4k to 6k on tacho) - I like to be in the power band . ( I fill in for Rs 200/- get 2.95 liters ) . Today had done a short trip . 25 kms each way ( with pillion). After the 2.95 lts fuel fill , I had run @ 40 km . On the outward journey I had a P150 competitor who thought he could beat me on the straight and that revving set the tone for the remaining 19 km . My mob GPS recorded 107 as top speed ( that should be without speedo error) without me trying to set a top speed record . On the return journey although I didn't reach 100 kmph I was constantly in the 6k to 7.5k on the tacho . I hit reserve in the 91st km - that means above 30kmpl . Last time I ripped on the NH (solo) I got above 35 kmpl and I'd thought I'd miscalculated . Don't know what to make of the data .

No additional relay added since its similar to the stock horn setup with same voltage requirements so it was just plugged in to play.

What should be the voltages when idle and running???

And is it ok to lube the switch assembly internals??? Casue my throttles abit hard now, cause the bikes been out and seen lots of water lately...
So should I take it apart and lube it???

bro the bike gulps some serious amount of petrol when throttle is totally rolled.

Your situation reminds me of mine. I also filled 2. 95 l petrol and usually run 115 to 125 kms ( always get reserve between this range) but one day I had a strange feeling to show off and all i did was downshift to third gear and redlined it all the way till i reached fifth gear. And I hit reserve in 92 kms. That was the only time I ripped after the fuelling and all other time I was riding moderately in 60- 80 kmph range.

The same economy range beween 30 - 33 kmpl was recorded whenever I rip the bike seriously. other wise when riding normally with occasional acceleration to even 100 kmph i get between 38- 42 kmpl.

And when the 32kmpl economy happened last time I got little worried and decided to check the economy with rpm needle between 3k- 4 k and i got 52 kmpl I know it sounds weird. But it happened to me.

OK , the horn is of 12 Volt , but what's the Ah rating ..? AFAIK , ZMA comes with 2.5 Ah rated horns as OE. For any higher rated horn you have to use a relay .
If I remember correctly , at switch off position , the battery should have 12- 12.4 V and when running 13 - 14.4 V
Lube the switch or throttle ? Throttle you can lube easily . The switch assy - grease the moving parts and clean the contact points . Then , a drop of engine oil to the contact points will keep it safe for some time . Also the key hole would appreciate a couple of drops of engine oil . Do it before the monsoon begin to keep it trouble free during the rains .
Is your route out of town or in town? Mine's in-town , in gear riding (mostly 4th gear , occasionally 3rd gear and rarely 5th gear ) . About 10 - 20 km per day normally .

BTW ...wanna trade...??

depending on the quality of the make starting from 200 to 300 was right and some mechanic fitting charges make sure the base of ur stand is straight as many sellers use some defective stand repaint it like new and sell it.
be sure when u buy it

Sorry I forgot to mention the route. It will be 25kms one side to my college. And its half way smooth and roads are good to go in 5th gear. And after that its very congested and I will be in 3 - 4th gear and occasionally in 5th gear. There are times I had to crawl in 2nd gear for 3 or 4 kms. But still its not a bad economy for a 223 cc running a lazy compression ratio. My riding style is smooth and kind of neat ( I think )

And I did a ride to kanyakumari on Saturday. It was close to 200 kms in total. Ride was good and as every time the bike retained its character from the start to end . My friend was on his 220 and faced some minor issues on the return trip. The road was not so good and now the front visor and fairing is clammering slightly when I go over bumps and potholes . Have to get it sorted out during next service.

engine oil in air filter box

Guys could anybody please help me understand is it normal to have some traces of engine oil in the air filter box.