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**sunny_** · 03-17-2012, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is up to you ...waste 2T 40ml..... 15/- or to use it.But Castrol 2 T is way above this oil in performance,and has low ash certification .

Somehow, couldn't wake up early so servicing cancelled.
But, got the drive chain cleaned and greased (Rs 30) at a local shop, and the result was a super smooth ride, which I've been missing since a long time.
Again I see next servicing is still some 1000 kms ahead, before that I won't get a day free. So, it will be 5000 kms since last service, would it be a thing for which I should worry? Although, I had cleaned the air filter and changed the engine oil some 1000 kms back.
And now going to Wellington for the NGK G power plug plus the Castrol 2T oil sachet.
Details later in the evening.

**ashwinprakas** · 03-17-2012, 08:47 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I think you are paying too much attention to the noises from the engine and loosing out on enjoying the ride..The timing chain noise cannot disappear but will remain throughout the RPM range..Check for Tappet clearance..
Do you hear a hissing sound while idling ?

Sir, Tappet clearance is ok I presume, since its not the sewing machine sound. And the clearance was set by the only experienced mech in my SVC at the time of installing the second cylinder kit.

I've been ignoring the noise just like I usually ignore minor engine noises, but just asked cause Harish(bikerharis) bro, when I met him yesterday said that the bikes making some unusual noise, and since's he's seen more km's than myself, I wanted to confirm the same with you.

Nope sir, but I recollect hearing something of the same sort when running on my 1st cylinder kit, and the noise use'd to increase with engine heat. What does that mean???

**Vishakh** · 03-17-2012, 08:53 PM

Even I get timing chain noise like you said. But am ignoring it as there isn't any performance loss or trouble. Living with it for now

**ashwinprakas** · 03-17-2012, 09:20 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Even I get timing chain noise like you said. But am ignoring it as there isn't any performance loss or trouble. Living with it for now

Lol, doing the same, after all how can we expect the engine to be in showroom condition after all the abuse its taken, and that too after almost(4 more months to go.) a year of purchase.

**shhbz** · 03-17-2012, 10:55 PM

@psr and other members

my bike braking has gone a bit weak ,I got my bike washed yesterday and found that again the brakes were responsive a bit but after few kilometer of ride as the bike gets hot it seems that brake is not responding that great as before both the rear and front.

In the latest service my bike front fork oil was completely changed and the brake pads were cleaned properly ,I even ask my service guy if there is a need to change pads to which he replied no its in good shape still . bike 14800km on the odo now since any change

**Noor** · 03-17-2012, 11:02 PM

Thread approved and merged

**ashwinprakas** · 03-17-2012, 11:11 PM

Originally posted by shhbz View Post

@psr and other members

my bike braking has gone a bit weak ,I got my bike washed yesterday and found that again the brakes were responsive a bit but after few kilometer of ride as the bike gets hot it seems that brake is not responding that great as before both the rear and front.

In the latest service my bike front fork oil was completely changed and the brake pads were cleaned properly ,I even ask my service guy if there is a need to change pads to which he replied no its in good shape still . bike 14800km on the odo now since any change

Once the SVC guys waxed my rotor, yeah you heard it right. So had the pads washed and scrubbed by them, yet the bite wasnt back, so on the way back I rode the bike at max throttle with the front brakes slightly held in, and after a few kms the bite was back.

**psr** · 03-17-2012, 11:37 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Sir, Tappet clearance is ok I presume, since its not the sewing machine sound. And the clearance was set by the only experienced mech in my SVC at the time of installing the second cylinder kit.
Nope sir, but I recollect hearing something of the same sort when running on my 1st cylinder kit, and the noise use'd to increase with engine heat. What does that mean???

Is it the same sound ?...Any way check for the sound when you are driving..on top gear at 60 Kmph close throttle and observe if you hear the sound..

Originally posted by shhbz View Post

@psr and other members

my bike braking has gone a bit weak ,I got my bike washed yesterday and found that again the brakes were responsive a bit but after few kilometer of ride as the bike gets hot it seems that brake is not responding that great as before both the rear and front.

In the latest service my bike front fork oil was completely changed and the brake pads were cleaned properly ,I even ask my service guy if there is a need to change pads to which he replied no its in good shape still . bike 14800km on the odo now since any change

First do a high pressure hose washing of disc pads and see...if it improves it may be due to dust on pads..if not then apply bearing grease liberally where the brake lever sits on the master cylinder piston..ie., at the base of the lever..this will make the lever work better and give you better braking.
Otherwise check pad for wear,and if it is glazed change it ASAP.

**sunny_** · 03-18-2012, 01:11 AM

Again, somehow couldn't go to buy the spark plug.. maybe some other day

after the greasing part today, the bike is making weird noise when I move it with engine off, as if something is hitting something. Although the bike is butter smooth now, but I doubt whether rear tire or the chain is touching something...... Anyhow, I'm ignoring it for the time being, and having a ride tomorrow so only positive things.

Shahbaz bhai, meet someday.. lets visit Wellington

**shhbz** · 03-18-2012, 02:42 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

First do a high pressure hose washing of disc pads and see...if it improves it may be due to dust on pads..if not then apply bearing grease liberally where the brake lever sits on the master cylinder piston..ie., at the base of the lever..this will make the lever work better and give you better braking.
Otherwise check pad for wear,and if it is glazed change it ASAP.

sir can u please point out the area where grease needs to be applied as bought castrol grease previous service and they did apply it on chain and elseplace so will ask them to grease the exact area which u are pointing , i will try to take a snap of my pad as I believe at aroung 15000km it must have got worn out but not sure will post pics soon when i go fr the service.

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Shahbaz bhai, meet someday.. lets visit Wellington

haha ....anyday u change ur no a lot its difficult to find u in any of ur no. well u must be having mine so get in touch

**ansum** · 03-18-2012, 05:40 AM

GRS shocks on a Karizma R

Out of curiosity I was wondering if it is possible to retrofit GRS shock-absorbers from the ZMR onto a Karizma R

If anyone has tried this, does it improve ride comfort & handling in a big way? How much would such a mod cost?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 03-18-2012, 10:48 AM

Originally posted by ansum View Post

Out of curiosity I was wondering if it is possible to retrofit GRS shock-absorbers from the ZMR onto a Karizma R

If anyone has tried this, does it improve ride comfort & handling in a big way? How much would such a mod cost?

IIRC the GRS Shocks will cost you nearly 2000 for one,Its definitely not worth.IMO zma has a good pair of rear suspension.Stick to it.

Just my opinion.

**acs1207** · 03-18-2012, 11:27 AM

Originally posted by ansum View Post

Out of curiosity I was wondering if it is possible to retrofit GRS shock-absorbers from the ZMR onto a Karizma R

If anyone has tried this, does it improve ride comfort & handling in a big way? How much would such a mod cost?

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

IIRC the GRS Shocks will cost you nearly 2000 for one,Its definitely not worth.IMO zma has a good pair of rear suspension.Stick to it.

Just my opinion.

I had thought about the same even though it's 2000 apiece when my shocks were bottoming with a pillion on . The setting was 2nd from softest . Riding single was just like gliding but with a 40 kg person behind me it used to bottom out with a small bump or rut on the road . Now I've set it to medium (middle) and the bottoming has gone even though single riding comfort has taken a hit . Any input as to the settings ?

**Vishakh** · 03-18-2012, 01:10 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

I had thought about the same even though it's 2000 apiece when my shocks were bottoming with a pillion on . The setting was 2nd from softest . Riding single was just like gliding but with a 40 kg person behind me it used to bottom out with a small bump or rut on the road . Now I've set it to medium (middle) and the bottoming has gone even though single riding comfort has taken a hit . Any input as to the settings ?

I am running with the same setting at the rear. I think it is the best option while leaning the bike at curves. It is stiff enough to give confidence

. And soft enough to not hurt your back too much over pot holes. Reducing tire pressure is an option you can consider. But it has its own bad demerits too.

When you take curves where you have to lean it one side and suddenly shift and lean to the other side ( I know its not moto gp

but still ) if you set it softer than the middle one the bikes suspension will flaunt and you won't feel confident enough. So i suggest run with the middle setting

.

Well I am planning to change the front fork oil to a little more thicker one.

**ashwinprakas** · 03-18-2012, 01:29 PM

^^ Im running with my suspension settings at the softest setting possible, and yet I still find it hard. Mine has never hit bottom, and infact has done the oppsite, the recoil from noticeable bumps are so hard that the pillion constantly keeps complaining and asking to make it softer.

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