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**SriramEfunds** · 02-24-2012, 04:36 PM

Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Post

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for. Waiting for the final figures.

360+ running...

**kvenkatkrishna1992** · 02-24-2012, 04:46 PM

hey i am newcomer
can any one give an idea of installing auxiliary lamps to karizma r without the installation of the crash guard

**ashwinprakas** · 02-24-2012, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

same happened to me, I thought the bike hit reserve

. Well only once though so I can't solely judge based on that.

Same pinch

, thats what I too felt, so the next day I did the same by making sure there was enough and more petrol and the knob was set to reserve by default, just in case, and the same thing happened again i.e bike stalled just before touching the 130Kmph mark on speedo.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

ZMA's have a rev limiter and I think that's what you've experienced after 'high speed runs

. Recently I'd done some kms of high speed runs and had to rev hard to keep up (well , try to

) with Vineeth bro . I had to rev hard in 3rd gear and then again in 4th gear . I didn't look at the tacho but I was doing nearly 120 when I changed to 5th gear . Even then the rev limiter didn't cut in . Guess I wasn't revving that hard or maybe the duration I revved wasn't sufficient for the limiter to cut in .

Sir, Next time try crossing the 130Kmph mark on the speedo. (Can't guarantee engine stalling, since different ZMA's different Speedo reading.) Else a more simpler approach would be to keep riding beyond the 8.25K or 8.5K mark for a max of a minute, this works on any gear, in my ZMA the bike'd stall withing 30secs, just an approximation, since I've not measured it(Avoid 1st gear, Its real scary and can cause the tranny to break.).

I don't think the cdi unit's faulty . Just because it gives you the maximum possible out of it without strain or stress doesn't mean there's something more to squeeze out of it (unless you mod it ). The ZMA is also said to have the 'air lock' problem when the engine dies on you for no apparent reason and if you open and close the tank it starts again . These are the only 'engine dieing on you ' problem that I've observed from the thread .

Air lock cant be an issue, cause;
1. My bike's new.
2. Resetting the ignition solved the issue.

I think that if you can get a cdi unit without a rev limiter cut off that's suitable for the ZMA then you can rev as much as you want (big bang ??

) .

Not possible.

By the way , is there a reset switch on the cdi unit ? How do you reset the cdi ?

By resetting the ignition I meant, turning the key OFF and then ON.

Originally posted by blACk_pANthER View Post

changed oil & drain nut bolt ("tappet hole cap" in parts catalogue) yesterday...
the bolt edges were rounded off & lost grip... so went to a lathe & told them to cut a straight line on the center of the bolt, so that it could be turned by a flat screwdriver...
just a small cut on the bolt & oil started pouring out (thanks to the extremely thin bolt)... then we tried & tried to remove the bolt with the flat screwdriver... still no luck... bolt is stuck like a rock... after a few tries with the screwdriver, the bolt itself tore apart in half (again thanks to the thin bolt)... we were like "WTF !!!"... half of the bolt & full thread is still in the engine, & now we have no grip...
now came the main guy at the lathe with his hammer... he gave a few knocks around the (half)bolt & it removed very easily... repalced it with new bolt (Rs20)...

changed oil to Honda Genuine 4 Stroke 10w30... filled 900ml & was at max mark on the dipstick...

didn't ride after that as i got a new problem... petrol leaking from carb drain tube... whenever i squeeze the tip of the tube, after a ride or even with engine on, i get atleast 4-5 drops of petrol in my hand... this is a fairly new problem as it was not there last week...
carb cleaning had been done before less than a month... drain screw is not loose... some amount of dried liquid gasket went into the tank by accident a few days back... i thought it would melt off... can it cause this?

Dealing with Deformed Oil Drain Bolts.

**psr** · 02-24-2012, 06:20 PM

I feel like a newbe and a nincompoop.

**ashwinprakas** · 02-24-2012, 06:34 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I feel like a newbe and a nincompoop.

Sir, if you're thinking that I've ignored your post about cleaning the CDI points, then thats not true, since I make sure they clean and properly apply the anti corroding paste to it, during every service i.e in short the same treatment they do to the battery terminals.

**SriramEfunds** · 02-24-2012, 07:59 PM

Update:- The final reading of 10L petrol is 378 on the trip meter.

(History - NGK G-Power plug)

**Vishakh** · 02-24-2012, 08:39 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Same pinch

, thats what I too felt, so the next day I did the same by making sure there was enough and more petrol and the knob was set to reserve by default, just in case, and the same thing happened again i.e bike stalled just before touching the 130Kmph mark on speedo.

Seems like should do some study on that

.

Originally posted by psr View Post

I feel like a newbe and a nincompoop.

Don't worry sir its just a feeling

. Without you in this thread where will we gain all this knowledge?. How will we sort out our problems this easy?. And without you here us newbies would have no idea about what to do and how to do it

. We will be like a flock of sheep without the shepherd.

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Update:- The final reading of 10L petrol is 378 on the trip meter.

(History - NGK G-Power plug)

You are almost getting the same return as me in the 80- 100 speed range

. Because during my last ernakulam trip I was doing the same average speeds as you and I got almost your same return. But my bike runs on stock plug.

And Sri, forgot to mention earlier. In most of the pics of your trip, from the group of bikes your white karizma simply stands out ( well except when those green things are around ). Maybe because I am a karizma lover but when I looked at the pics the first thing that caught my eyes was your karizma.

**ashwinprakas** · 02-24-2012, 08:57 PM

Here's my extended ride report on Yamalube 20W40. Completed only 150~200Kms riding.

**siddhesh** · 02-24-2012, 10:11 PM

the shock absorber spring touching the chain cover

[IMG][/IMG]
when u see the point which is touching the chian it has also lost its colour due to friction.any idea how to solve this?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 02-24-2012, 10:46 PM

Originally posted by siddhesh View Post

when u see the point which is touching the chian it has also lost its colour due to friction.any idea how to solve this?

I think its because of a misaligned chain guard,remove and fix it correctly.

**psr** · 02-24-2012, 11:15 PM

Originally posted by blACk_pANthER

had to wait till a day i din't use my zma... so was late...

since i'm currently having the problem of petrol leak from the carb drain tube, as mentioned in my above post, i decided to take out the carbeurator & also to clean the tank...
i drained the petrol when it was showing "reserve" & got 2.5L of petrol (excluding unusable reserve)... guess the readings of my console are not that accurate...

empty space in place of carb...

@psr ji: i've run out of brake oil... can i soak the carb in kerosene? (it is abundantly available here & cheap too)... can get brake oil if needed...
have i done the carb removal properly?
any precautions to be taken while the zma is kept like this?
any precautions & tips on handling the carb?
oops! din't see that...

I am unable to see any picture ....just a black square with a minus sign in a circle...
Yes you can soak the carb in kerosene..but Diesel will be better..whenever you remove carb any parts and leave a gaping hole into the cylinder head, always plug it with soft cloth to prevent foreign objects getting inside.

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Update:- The final reading of 10L petrol is 378 on the trip meter.

(History - NGK G-Power plug)

I had started getting 37 to 38 with G power plug and with Emulsion tube mod 41 to 42 Kms per liter of petrol in city driving.

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Don't worry sir its just a feeling

. Without you in this thread where will we gain all this knowledge?. How will we sort out our problems this easy?. And without you here us newbies would have no idea about what to do and how to do it

. We will be like a flock of sheep without the shepherd.

I am also one of the sheep looking for the shepherd.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Here's my extended ride report on Yamalube 20W40. Completed only 150~200Kms riding.

M/s Standard Grease & Specialities are also the manufacturer of Motul Oil.

Originally posted by siddhesh View Post

[IMG][/IMG]
when u see the point which is touching the chian it has also lost its colour due to friction.any idea how to solve this?

Did you check for the metal bush inside the shock mounting rubber like I indicated a few posts back ?..the shocks absorber mounting is too close ,I suggest you insert a thick washer behind the shock absorber mounting to solve the problem...if the metal bush is already there.

**shhbz** · 02-24-2012, 11:29 PM

finally fitted amaron 9 amp tday , my pick up is reacting great to throttle now and now my next mod would be philips light and smd led

**SriramEfunds** · 02-24-2012, 11:47 PM

Originally posted by shhbz View Post

finally fitted amaron 9 amp tday , my pick up is reacting great to throttle now and now my next mod would be philips light and smd led

Is your bike pre-2011 batch? If yes, then it should be an easy job. Also I wonder how the pick could change for mere battery upgrade.

Try Philips Vision LED W5W T10 bulbs for pilot lamps. These bulbs come with 4000 Kelvin luminous which would match close to Philips Extreme/ Extreme Vision (55/60w). Expensive but worth it.

**ashwinprakas** · 02-25-2012, 12:03 AM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Also I wonder how the pick could change for mere battery upgrade.

Its possible cause I've read somewhere that bike's with DC CDI units, show loss in performance when run without a battery. Anyways am not the expert when it comes to CDI's and IC's, so I believe its better if Psr sir, or Vishnu bro explained this.

**blACk_pANthER** · 02-25-2012, 09:15 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I am unable to see any picture ....just a black square with a minus sign in a circle...
Yes you can soak the carb in kerosene..but Diesel will be better..whenever you remove carb any parts and leave a gaping hole into the cylinder head, always plug it with soft cloth to prevent foreign objects getting inside.

sorry sir, some technical problem...
i have re-uploaded the pics below...

Originally posted by psr View Post

After soaking the screw and surrounding in brake oil/wd40 for 15 minutes, take a flat blade screwdriver ,place it on the screw,and gently hammer it.This method will loosen up the screw...
Be careful with the hammer tapping..if you hit it with force it will ruin the carb.

had to wait till a day i din't use my zma... so was late...

since i'm currently having the problem of petrol leak from the carb drain tube, as mentioned in my above post, i decided to take out the carbeurator & also to clean the tank...
i drained the petrol when it was showing "reserve" & got 2.5L of petrol (excluding unusable reserve)... guess the readings of my console are not that accurate...

here are some pics of my carb & its screws...

worn-out afr screw...

empty space in place of carb...

@psr ji: i've run out of brake oil... can i soak the carb in kerosene? (it is abundantly available here & cheap too)... can get brake oil if needed...
have i done the carb removal properly?
any precautions to be taken while the zma is kept like this?
any precautions & tips on handling the carb?

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Dealing with Deformed Oil Drain Bolts.

oops! din't see that...

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