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sir, how do we check compression. Is this a DIY or do we need to go to the service center?Originally posted by psr View PostYou start the game with a full pot o' luck and an empty pot o' experience... The object is to fill the pot of experience before you empty the pot of luck.
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Its not a DIY,It needs a Compression Testing Machine,Take the bike to SVC,they will check it for you.Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Postsir, how do we check compression. Is this a DIY or do we need to go to the service center?
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Help needed- after washing bike yesterday when i opened the fuel tank,the outer coverin had water. the hole was logged and water was not going down & some water entered the engine. when i looked today the hole is still filled with water. what to do?
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Sir I have one doubt can there be some glitch within the CDI causing this? rather than a loose contact. In that case what if a CDI replacement does rectify the fault?Originally posted by psr View PostThis is the typical CDI connector loose contact problem...when the engine dies it will start but when you try to accelerate it will die again...after a few tries the problem will suddenly go away..
I had faced this problem numerous times,and had also called you once when I got this problem...I had since opened the connector, and tightened the individual connectors ,and so far , am riding in peace...this and the throttle slide getting stuck are peculiar ZMA problem,but over time,and with corrective action , goes away.
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The thing is that I have faced the same exact problem Twice in my bike and it vanished when I cranked the bike after a minute or so. I didn't jiggle with the connectors at all. Then later only from your's and other experts posts I realized that it was a loose contact problem.Cheetahs are faster but the lion is still the KING
Being In Love with a Girl is like being a superbike fitted with SPEED LIMITER
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First of all soak the water inside the fuel tank ring area with some cloth.Originally posted by Jerrin View PostHelp needed- after washing bike yesterday when i opened the fuel tank,the outer coverin had water. the hole was logged and water was not going down & some water entered the engine. when i looked today the hole is still filled with water. what to do?
The hole is connected to a rubber tube which is let down to the bottom of the bike. Seems like there is a block in the drain line.
Temporary instant relief
Try to disconnect the tube from the tank out let.
First remove the seat cover. Then u can see a bolt which attaches the rear side of the tank to the chassis. It is in front of the air intake compartment and is a steel bolt which is easily noticeable in the black chassis.
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Unscrew the bolt. Lift the tank there will be enough space to slide your fingers in. Search for a rubber tube( Its purely based on your touch sense and you can't see it) and disconnect the rubber tube.
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If you are not so good at DIY better take it to SVC they will do it( No change just the same method i stated above ). Its a 5 minute free of cost job
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Perfectionist method
The possibility of block is likely due to a bend on the rubber tube due to extra length. It happened to me anyways.
So remove the tank. Cut the extra length of drain tube. Reconnect it back to the tank water drain outlet. And there will be water inside the fuel tank ( obviously
). Before putting the tank back drain out the petrol. Well don't drain completely keep some 300 ml in the tank as water will be below that and if drained completely when refilling the water may again go inside.
Take out the tank remove that 300 ml fuel and water which is settled below it. Dry the tank for a day. Fix it back in the evening.
Peace of mind. No tank rusting. And no missing or chocking due to water in engine and carb later on
.
Cheetahs are faster but the lion is still the KING
Being In Love with a Girl is like being a superbike fitted with SPEED LIMITER
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The CDI in ZMA is made by Nippon Denso India,and is a Epoxy sealed unit...So no water or moisture ingress is possible.The unit does not contain any moving parts, only electronic components. Electronic components seldom recover from a fault condition except for thermal overload....Originally posted by Vishakh View PostSir I have one doubt can there be some glitch within the CDI causing this? rather than a loose contact. In that case what if a CDI replacement does rectify the fault?
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The thing is that I have faced the same exact problem Twice in my bike and it vanished when I cranked the bike after a minute or so. I didn't jiggle with the connectors at all. Then later only from your's and other experts posts I realized that it was a loose contact problem.
The connector pins are Silver coated and they get oxidized when exposed to moisture,and heat. It is this that causes the random loose contact problem. My doubt is that the connection to Ignition coil ,from CDI,which delivers the ignition pulse develops the loose contact,and the spark energy level goes down.So bike will start but cannot idle properly ,or accelerate since spark energy is poor...
I had corrected the problem in my bike .When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Aneeshbro, Thanks for the information. the above was only for my knowledge. Not facing any issue with the bike at the momentOriginally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostIts not a DIY,It needs a Compression Testing Machine,Take the bike to SVC,they will check it for you.
You start the game with a full pot o' luck and an empty pot o' experience... The object is to fill the pot of experience before you empty the pot of luck.
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Originally posted by psr View PostThe CDI in ZMA is made by Nippon Denso India,and is a Epoxy sealed unit...So no water or moisture ingress is possible.The unit does not contain any moving parts, only electronic components. Electronic components seldom recover from a fault condition except for thermal overload....
The connector pins are Silver coated and they get oxidized when exposed to moisture,and heat. It is this that causes the random loose contact problem. My doubt is that the connection to Ignition coil ,from CDI,which delivers the ignition pulse develops the loose contact,and the spark energy level goes down.So bike will start but cannot idle properly ,or accelerate since spark energy is poor...
I had corrected the problem in my bike .
Knowledge upgraded. Happened twice to me so far. Since it happens to stay only for a couple of minutes it is quiet a livable problem for me. But people who are unaware of this and if this happens to them in a stranded place in the middle of the night will sure scare their guts out
. And even SVC people will fail to find out this glitch often
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To all
After I changed my acc cable B. Seems like the bike got the crispiness back. I could surely feel the difference in pick up of the bike and its just awesome.
. The throttle response change is clearly felt. Whereas earlier the bike had a lag in the beginning of opening throttle. And adding to that the bike doesn't knock even at 2.3- 2.5k rpm range. And it goes smooth throughout the rev range
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Cheetahs are faster but the lion is still the KING
Being In Love with a Girl is like being a superbike fitted with SPEED LIMITER
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CDI Issue.
The zma has a faulty unit. The rpm bouncing issue has happened on mine too. Goes away on its own. Its actually easy to overcome when you get used to it. once when sarin bro rode my bike the same happened he was terrified, the issue goes away on its own when the ignition is reset.
Drain tube issue.
No need to remove tank just remove the battery side panel and access the drain tube. The same was done to my bike during my 4th service. Due to constant removal of my tank for various reasons the pipe got pinched and hence lots of water got into my tank.
Sorry for the numerous grammatical errors, now at hostel and am posting from my Corby.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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the suspension was touching the chain guard hence the noise...made the chain cover little away from the suspension...nw the noise is low but still it does exist...Originally posted by psr View PostIf the swing arm bushes had been greased and lubed properly ,then the other suspect area for rear suspension noise is the shock absorber mounting itself...remove the shocks, and apply a little grease on the mounting studs and refit the shocks .
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By suspension you mean the shock absorber spring ? I think the center metal bush inside shock absorber mount rubber, is missing in your bike...otherwise there is no way the spring can touch the chain guard.Originally posted by siddhesh View Postthe suspension was touching the chain guard hence the noise...made the chain cover little away from the suspension...nw the noise is low but still it does exist...When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Can you enlighten me how and why the ZMA CDI is a faulty unit ?..and list out the various faults associated with it ?...can the ignition be altered in any way to give better performance ?Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostCDI Issue.
The zma has a faulty unit. The rpm bouncing issue has happened on mine too. Goes away on its own. Its actually easy to overcome when you get used to it. once when sarin bro rode my bike the same happened he was terrified, the issue goes away on its own when the ignition is reset.Last edited by psr; 02-23-2012, 12:17 PM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Took the bike to SVC today morning. To sort out the tack sound from handle bar, actually my cone set was loose and that was causing the glitch. He tightened it and gave back. A simple 5 minutes job.
And on the return way I felt that the handle is surprisingly stable than it was previously. And handle is stiffer now, in a positive way though
. Nothing wrong I felt about it.
My mechanic checked the fork and all and came back and reported that no problem so I explained to him blah blah and he pressed the front brake and dived the bike 3-4 times and said its the cone set. And he adjusted it.
And its close to 10 months after i bought my bike and no sign of my goodlife card. So registered for it again today. This is the 3rd time I am doing it
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Cheetahs are faster but the lion is still the KING
Being In Love with a Girl is like being a superbike fitted with SPEED LIMITER
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