Bought the 900ml 4t Gold which is pinkish RED two weeks back for 200/-

I think you are more confused than before.....to know the present /original setting of AFR spray WD40 on the AFR screw,wait 15 to 30 minutes and see if the screw turns without trouble.Then turn the screw CLOCKWISE GENTLY,and keep count of the number of turns, till it stops and cannot be turned further.The number of turns you counted now is the actual setting you have on the bike...make a note of it now someplace safe.From this fully tight position turn the screw ANTI CLOCKWISE to the same number of turns as before,and you are back to your previous/stock setting..simple isn't it !
How do you presume that the ZEN paper filter allows impurities into the air inlet ?The design of stock ZMA filter is such that it is small in size and the pleats are sitting on each other thereby presenting a closed surface to air inlet. The ZEN filter is larger and the pleats are more open to air inlet and so allows BETTER permeability..This filter is made of paper pulp which is what the best air filters are made of...and meant for a 1,000 cc engine...or 4cylinders of 250cc each..imagine what will happen to engine if the air filter were to allow more dust in to the engine.
Request you to do some reading on the basics of Carburetor,and Air filter types and their filtering efficiency....

Angry with me? its okay anyhow I'll be learning something from you and I like that.

Okay so "The number of turns you counted now is the actual setting you have on the bike...make a note of it now someplace safe.From this fully tight position turn the screw ANTI CLOCKWISE to the same number of turns as before,and you are back to your previous/stock setting.."
I do not know what was the stock setting, maybe someone tampered with the screw someday and rotated it by some turns, now how to put it back to stock setting?
And my assumptions about the Zen filter was based on its structure. Okay, now it is clear.

"engine not going beyond a particular rpm" continued...
The problem next to the above mentioned is, now when I start the bike, it starts but halts when I twist the throttle beyond 2k rpm.
I reached back Calcutta today, inspected the bike, removed the spark plug and cleaned it, cleaned the spark plug cap also and the place where plug is placed. Even then same problem...
Now what to do?
I have to go college tomorrow

@Aneesh - since you have started it you might as well add the price of compatible/alternaive products for ZMA R like disc pad,brake shoe, engine oil etc. Also add the link to your signature..

Today got Vineeth to remove his DB Killer !!
http://s1117.photobucket.com/albums/k597/acs1207/?action=view&


ZMA R 240 FFE_01 video by acs1207 - Photobucket

Dunno whether the link would work - 1st time linking a video ! If the link doesn't work ,might need expert advice on it !!

Here it is

Angry with You ? When did i say it and where is it expressed...I just said you are more confused than before,....and requested you to read up to get better knowledge....esp., to strengthen the basics which is the foundation on which your future knowledge will stand.
If someone had tampered with the AFR setting,then you can follow the suggestion on AFR setting I had posted earlier...
If you want perfect setting, then go to any Pollution monitoring center and set the Co to spec..or to the least value while idling at 1,400 RPM on a hot engine.

The bottom part which consists of wires is not getting opened, otherwise I've cleaned it.
I'm doing these things in my room, keep guiding me. Yes, I'm a newbie but I want to learn things and want to remove problems on my own as far as possible.
Engine starting but gets stalled when I twist the throttle

To release the CDI connector press and hold the Locking clip ,On both SIDES, strongly and pull the CDI and connector apart..The locking clip keeps the connector and CDI to-gether...NEVER PULL BY THE CABLE WIRES.
Once the connector is removed spray WD40 or Zorrick on the connector face and re install on the CDI.

Done and problem still persists.
Next step?

I guess there arew three things to check in your care - air supply , fuel supply and ignition. has to be one of the three !
Could be a loose contact at the spark plug end .

@Aneesh - since you have started it you might as well add the price of compatible/alternaive products for ZMA R like disc pad,brake shoe, engine oil etc. Also add the link to your signature..

I want to learn things and want to remove problems on my own as far as possible.