That is how we roll.

I remember the techies at Maruthi Suzuki advising my mom, saying that the engine tends to be under more stress when the engine knocks in higher gear rather than reving hard in lower gears. But I guess the advice was pointless cause my mom still drives the same.

Just wanted to add this bit of info from my side, for example say you're riding your Karizma in city traffic conditions and then if you're riding in 3rd gear at 50kmph and suddenly some pedestrian comes in front walking on the road thinking that it is a garden then you can have the stopping distance lesser than when you're in 5th gear at same speed. Just wanted to state one more point in favour of riding at low gears should be preferred than riding at low speed in a higher gear. Also, it allows our fingers off the clutch lever for a more period of time in the former case resulting in a better FE as compared to the latter one. Plus, the engine getting more responsive.

This thread had gone on for a lot of time without me...It is no longer in the learning stage but at an advanced level now..I see many members from here posting in other forums with authority..Makes me feel proud to be part of it...since members here are able to solve each other's query ,..I do not wish to interfere..
Regarding engine feeling better after a long hard ride..it happens only with vehicles maintained properly ,and with correct liquids in them...for every success story there are five vehicles returning home on tow..
1. When sustained high speed run is done, ...in carb., or injector the fuel flow path gets cleaned due to continuous flow.....it also makes the carb slide or injector to lift properly with ease.
2. Sustained speeds burns away the carbon deposit on the piston and chamber,and also in the Exhaust system...
3. Moving parts like gears,valves,rocker,,get coated with a minimal amount of combustion or dirt deposits which reduces clearance between moving parts, and also GUMS UP ,in-spite of lubrication..When ever an engine is split all this can be visually seen.
A high speed run ,because of temperature and sustained faster movement ,sheds this and become free to rotate or move with ease.
4. Any imperfection in clutch plate meshing,or bore and piston is methodically worn to mate better..but if you have worn clutch or bore piston and bad oil, this will have an opposite effect of clutch slip and engine seizure.
These are some of the reasons I know of...

Your observations are correct..
I would like to add another point here...when you ride in the mid RPM range you would actually be in the Ignition advance map region ,thus enabling better FE.For any engine it will mostly be in between 1/3 to 1/2 of max RPM.

Good to see you back sir,
And didnt know about the burning off carbon deposit part, so in short a bike maintained well and revved hard doesnt need de-carbonizing at all???

Speaking about the gear, they fall into place extremely precisely now and that too with a metalic click which is very intoxicating to hear.

Zen mpfi air filter on ZMAR

Hi all
Have put ZEN mpfi air filter in my Zmar today . This is the 'how to..'
Things needed:
1.Zen mpfi air filter
2.Cutter - can be of any type as long as it can cut the plastic frame of the Zmar air filter.
3.Hot glue and gun.

Point to be noted - Zen mpfi filter is @ 13 cm square (excluding the projected sides) where as the Zmar filter area is wider(left to right) and shorter (top to bottom) . So the paper filter should be cut accordingly and you'll have to cut a portion of the air filter frame as well as a corner of the Zen filter frame . The pics I think are self explanatory and I'll try to clear doubts if there are any .


























The edges should be sealed fully so that air passes only through the filter . I've used @ 18 inches of glue candle so far . Am planning to fill the remaining depth once I buy more candles .

Have taken only a 2 km ride so far after the mod - effect seen is engine seems more free (better air supply ? ) but the kmph per rpm seems seems to be similar .

Welcome back Sir. You inspire me most of the times.
Just a question related to your first point: What is the equivalence of carb slide in FI systems?

More questions:
1. Does riding in low speed at higher gears(in case when engine knocks at low rpms) imply that sparks are occurring after top dead centre?
2. Is it more harmful than redlining the engine? (As Aneesh bro or Ashwin bro stated that a car mech told this to his mom) If yes, then how?
3. "Ignition advance map region" Sir please elaborate this point or any link will be helpful.

Congrats and a nice detailed write-up there Sir.
I'd like to know more about the performance. Please post it taking a good ride on highways.

anything that is handy for karizma users as even lubing,changing oil may come handy for many users who want to learn these simple stuff or maybe any mod or any solution to the particular prob as psr had been showing via pic which does come handy for users

Nice bro.Let us know the price of hot glue and a pic of it.

A DIY on Chain cleaning and lubing,adjusting brakes,oil change etc coming soon.Waiting for my bike.

What an excellent discussion going on,I guess we are having the best discussions in ownership thread.

PSR Sir,You are the real hero.

Also tell me if you need any other DIY,I will try my level best.

it not about me its for us all who own karizma and we will provide all valuable basics as well as solution to difficult stuff and how its done.
great 1 is on with the DIY project so we will not be dependant on mechanic for everything atleast all will be making a step forward to learn from even basics of caring and maintaining their ride

Will try - my norm ride is @ 10 - 15 km per day in city . Mileage check must wait for next petrol filling .
Hot Glue Gun really is no gun - it's just shaped like one . The candle ( shaped like a candle , colored like a candle ) is put in a hole at the rear and pushed into the chamber . Most of it's length jut out of the rear end . Once you plug it in , a heating element in the chamber melts it and when you pull the 'trigger' , the candle is pressed into the chamber and the melted hot glue oozes out of the nozzle in the front . You should be precise with that since it sticks to where it touches . Once it cools ( takes mebbe a minute or so ) it's hard . Not to be used where there's high temperature ...
I bought it for some 200/- or so .

haha..........even my airtel fixed line service technician use this to fix the wire with jack

Well , it's a pretty good tool to have . I came to handle it the first time only about 2-3 months back when I had to mend a rat-attack on my car's wiring harness . It's not actually meant for sealing , mostly used to hold wires in place especially in electronics . But then if things were used only for their intended purposes my Zmar ( or anybody's ) would be like any other Zmar !!!
@psr - sir , now my engine cowl's removed (at least for the present ) and crash guard fitted . Feels even better to ride now that I have Zen mpfi filter . But one new problem has cropped up ! . Earlier the cowl used to bear the water/mud/dung that comes off the front wheel - now it splashes onto my feet ( no dung as yet !! ) . Have you done anything to your ride to counter this problem ? Any suggestions ?

Thanks for the detailed information bro.

Thats one advantage i found after fixing the guard.

Very Good clean D I Y, Much better than the one I had done...
The engine breathes better and so seem to become much free to rev .Since no gearing from stock is done RPM to speed remains the same....see if you get a better grunt when you accelerate.
Regarding the oil in air box see the small drain hole at the floor of box ? the edges will be raised originally..so you have to cut the edges to the box level to allow the oil to flow into the drain tube.A thin 10w30 leads to more oil in the air box...After 20w40 and boric acid treatment, my ZMA has no oil in the box now...may be due to the ZEN filter too..I am not sure..
Really love your DIY.KEEP IT UP.