Indicators timing, frequency setup

I'm very eager to start an experiment on the indicators of my black Karizma R (bought on 30 Nov, 2010)
1. The fact is that I prefer to use light signals over horns (specially on highways) for overtaking, giving pass etc, and everytime I change my lane I use indicator.
Now, since beginning I've found the timing of the indicators quite wrong in my bike...meaning that the moment I switch right indicator(say, for example) then there is a delay(of the order of 1 second) then it glows then off then glows and so on...and the glowing time is too short. However, in my brother's Karizma R 2011 the indicators glow as soon as we turn the switch and the frequency is also greater(please compare both). I don't want that either 'cause the frequency is too much in the new model. I want a decent timing(like in most of the cars), can I adjust the timing by doing some kinda experiment with the circuit? Or is there any other method to do so?
2. Also, I wanted to do a Hazard lights/Parking lights setup(all 4 indicators glowing at the same time) on my own and before that I think switching to LED indicators would be benificial as they will consume lesser power and I can use them for short breaks on any road at night for 5-10 minutes with engine off also without worrying about the battery consumption. So, please guide me regarding this...
Thanks

Nice Site,Very helpful. Thanks sir

Congrats bro. Happy Riding


Saw Xeno's Security systems at a retailer in my city,he had two models, quoted 1300 and 1900rs.

Sir, am still abit clueless. What all should I remove after removing the tank to see this.


And can you mark the area through which I should insert the feeler guage and check the gap.???

You have to remove both the tappet bolts to see the tappets.

Here is a link of the D.I.Y tappet setting I had done on my RTR...this might be of some help..
http://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.218320414891968.51735.100001420336904

Nice Albums bro. Very Helpful.

The part no 10 with "O" ring 20 must be removed(two in numbers) by turning it anticlockwise....and under it you will see the tappet adjustment screw .It is the top most part of the head .

@ Ashwin

Are you going to adjust the tappets your own? Then call me, will join you.

make sure you have necessary tools before opening.......Ashwin has doubts,and getting it clarified here.

Ok sir,Tools we needed are Feeler gauge and few spanners, right?

What is that T-Mark thing? Didnt get that.

There is a special tool to hold the center adjusting screw while tightening the outer lock nut...this is necessary to get the setting locked correctly.
The mark on the magneto rotor is the piston top dead center mark and the mark on the CAM timing gear is to align it correctly with this to get the Valve timing accurately.

never knew it was this complex to do. At the SVC the mech removed the tank opened the engine head inspected through the hole took a tool( dont know what ) adjusted it then assembled everything back .( 10 min max)

Ok , here's the procedure .Follow psr's diagram .. I can't find mine here now .
It's a bit tricky for the first time. Remove both tappet cover nuts & the magneto cover . Align the magneto rotor(flywheel) T mark(a fine index line to the left of the T mark actually) to the index mark on the engine case(body) turning it anticlockwise .. feeling the compression on the rotor ... making sure the piston is at the top of the compression stroke by moving the rocker arms with your finger...if they are free , piston is at the top of the compression stroke .. if they are tight, rotate the flywheel 360 degrees and realign the marks again . Then set tappets accurately to 0.05mm (for example, check the correct gap from your manual) with feeler gauge . The gauge must be inserted between the adjusting screw and valve stem . Lock by tightening the lock nut .Take care to put some engine oil beforehand on the gauge leaf to prevent sticking or damage to it or adjusting nuts . Furthermore opening the tappet covering bolts (tap bolts) is easy with spanner even , but to refit them correctly you should use a torque wrench , or be adept at tightening nuts to near accurate torque by hand feel only . Bit too loose , the thread there will leak oil under heat stress . Bit over torqued ( over tigthened ) , and the case shall form microscopic cracks on the engine case there . ALL THIS TO BE DONE ON A FULL COLD ENGINE ONLY . They do use a special tool to hold the adjusting nut set , to tighten the lock nut , like psr'jee said . Can it be done without ?
Best way to learn it is to get it done at the ASC , and carefully watch them do it , which i have done . But not tried it by myself yet , need some free time now .
Sorry guys I am a bit on & off nows , Durga-puja in Calcutta starts just tomorrow ... for five days . My best wishes to all for the early autumn festival .
That's cause they have done it thousands of time .. practice makes it easy . Moreover he just left the magneto TDC adjustments alone (skipped it) , and just did the tappets -- a common shortcut they take at the ACSs . Magneto flywheel seldom fall out of adjustment by much and the lazy jokers know that .

I have done the hazard light setup on my bike. Its pretty simple. You will have to just take a wire and connect the front two indicators. Now if you turn on any side indicator, all the four lights will flash. Just a put a switch in the wire, you will have a on/off switch. Very simple but effective setup. But for switching on the hazard lights, you will have to switch on the hazard light switch and then the indicator..

Sir, I saw the pics of the DIY RTR tapet adjustment. Would doing exactly in accordance with the pic solve my problem, or should I tweak thhe magneto rotor thingi too...


And Sir, can you name all the necessary tools required for ZMA.

@RTR Bro, Thanks for the DIY.

@Pinaki Sir, Sir, what happens if we skip the magneto rotor??
And is a torque spanner required???