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**Only Amit...** · 09-28-2011, 08:01 PM

Originally posted by ankss View Post

well i just inquired about the HID with projector .. the shop guy told me that it will cost you around Rs. 2800 ... ( no brand) with out fitting cost
I have searched a lot and did not get any branded HID with projectors, all are cheap chinese made and no guarantee on the performance .
Have a look at these...
motorcycle hid projector KT-MT3
and about LS2 helmet .. he told me that LS2 diamond with speed graphics ... white color ... it will cost me Rs 2800 !!!
I guess it is correct, you can probably bargain a bit and buy it for 2500 bucks.
are these quotes correct .. can i go for it ???

Please find my response in bold...

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Always 40 above be it whatever conditions

sure it hits above 50 when cruising in highway at some 70kmph

50

...I have never got more than 40...not more than 35 in recent days

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

Hey!!!! Anybody who can answer this question ?????

Dude...the full white setup will cost you 12k, you are getting it in half of the price. Its your call but do check for scraches and cracked joints in the scrapped ZMA fairings.

**sunny_** · 09-28-2011, 08:27 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Yes the voltage is dependant on RPM., esp if you have a discharged battery and/or full load of lights,indicator, and horn....which is why I had asked the voltage checked at 3 K RPM when ZMA's alternator becomes capable of taking care of these loads...
The capability of the bike's alternator to give better charging current and voltage at higher RPM is more than at lower RPM.
The voltage is the potential difference between the +ve and -ve of the battery, and the current is the quantum of electrons moving through a conductor in a circuit.....Voltage is expressed in Volts,and Current in Amperes.
Voltage is the potential difference between +ve and -ve and is necessary for flow of Current...and current flows from -ve to +ve.
You can't judge a battery's level of charge without electrical gadgets...a hygrometer can tell the charge level in a lead acid battery.....

Sir thanks but I think there should be a correction, current flows from +ve to -ve whereas electrons flow from -ve to +ve.
And you asked him to check the battery voltage at 3k rpm if it is higher than 14.5V then NOT OK! Right? So for a 12 V battery you think below 14.5 is okay? But how is it possible, I mean the source is having a potential difference of 12 V so between any two points in a closed circuit the potential difference must not exceed 12 V???!!! And even checking directly at the battery terminals (assuming the resistance in the voltmeter wire to be negligible and no errors in the meter) the reading should be 12 V... Please correct me if I'm deviating/wrong.

Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post

Saw projectors in car accessories shop for 3600 (pair) in Mumbai. 6k+ with HID kit (projectors + HID kit). It has these angel eyes, Looks cool, however don't know how well they perform.

HID does take a little time to warm up, maybe 5 seconds to come up to full brightness. Regarding HI-Lo beam, HID operates differently from halogen bulbs.

In halogen, one filament is shielded, while the other is open. The open one is for high beam.

In HID the light burns constantly. The bulb moves in and out of a fixed shield. So in effect, when the bulb moves out of the shield, it has the high beam.

A projector works differently yet again, but thats another story.

Hey, thanks for the info there..and HID setup setup is a costly one as for me now. (as far as my reflector is okay

, I'm pretty happy with the current Philips Xtreme 55/60w)

**acs1207** · 09-28-2011, 08:29 PM

Originally posted by selvin rebz View Post

sorry late upload,after these burn am back to stock bulb

now onward i wont experiment new things on my baby

fingers crossed

Even with slight burns I guess your 55/60 W would outshine the OE 35/35 W by a big margin when it comes to light throw/brightness .

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

I want to ask that even many cars are also using their reflectors made of plastic(or whatever i mean similar level as that of our Karizma) and even then they are using 90/100 w bulbs without any issues.
Even 4 wheeler H/Ls have issues when it comes to higher wattage bulbs . I am using OE 55W H1 and H7 on my Palio not because it's enough , but for fear of reflector burn . Am planning on aux light for both vehicles .
Also, I think local bulbs might also make things worse, as I've used Philips Xtreme Vision 55/60 w for many kms ....no issues with reflectors yet! and infact many members are using higher wattage bulbs....So why are only few ppl getting these problems?
I am not sure whether my 55/60 has adversely affected my reflector . I just know my H/L throw and light is twice as good now than what it was .
Future planning for an HID(after I'm bored with the current setup)
What will be the best deal with cost and light both? Will projectors cost a lot?
Projector set up is in my mind too .
I mean please give the range also.
I've heard and seen also that HIDs take quite time to warm up and then they come to their full glow, so how to cope up with say you've to use pass light in daytime??!! or suppose you've to switch from low beam to high beam without such a time dealy?

That's why HID projectors are mainly used as low beam .

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Me too using 55/60 W bulbs... Wait a min, let me go down and check. Will post the response asap.
UPDATE.
Lol... I dont have burns but there's an accelerated blurring happening somewhere on top. But I guess its normal, after extended periods of use, its bound to happen. So for now my safety come's first, thus 55/60 it is.

Now THAT's the spirit !!

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

@PSR Sir, you recommended someone here to check the battery voltage at 3k rpm...why particularly @ 3k rpm? Is voltage supposed to depend upon rpm?
And is it like at higher rpms the rate of battery charging is higher than that at lower rpms?
At lower RPMs the input voltage will be less than what's in the battery . Hence no charging takes place at lower RPMs . At higher RPMs , the RR takes charge and provides a steady voltage/current - is what I guess .
How to check whether the battery is fully charged/empty without using any electrical gadget?

You want to check an electrical gadget without another electrical gadget ??!!

Well , let me see . .you can check with a 12V bulb whether it has charge , but not how much charge .
1--Connect one point of the bulb to a wire and the other point to the negative of the battery , then touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery .
2--Connect a wire to the positive terminal of the battery . Brush the other end of the wire to the negative battery . If there's charge in the battery , there'll be sparks as the wire brushes past the terminal .

Easiest is using an electronic multimeter . Cost ? 100/- to 200/- !!!

Answers also in bold .

**acs1207** · 09-28-2011, 08:34 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Always 40 above be it whatever conditions

sure it hits above 50 when cruising in highway at some 70kmph

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

So when did you sell you'r ZMA, and get a moped..????

Or is it a moped carb connected to the ZMA???!!!

**sunny_** · 09-28-2011, 08:52 PM

FE

Originally posted by discoverboy2612 View Post

hey can anybody here tell me what is the fuel cunsumption on Highway as well as in city of the new Karizma R???
My friends wants to buy it?

Mine gave below 38kmpl in city and below 35kmpl on highway

last time, maybe because I was ripping it continuously over 8k rpms, above 130 kph...touched 140 kph(again

) twice (Yes, mainly due to the new set of sprockets

)...It consumed Rs200(=2.81 litres) fuel for running just 78.8 kms(including few burnouts

)
Well, going back in history...my Karizma always gave around 37kmpl in city and 42kmpl on highways(provided I did not cross 60kmph)

Let me prepare an easy-to-read catalogue for those who intend to know mileage of the Karizma:

1. With casual shifts till 5th gear and riding at 40-50 kph, you'll get __ kpl.

2. ....at 60 kph constantly (<70kph) you'll get __ kpl

3. ....at 80 kph, you'll get __ kpl

4. ....at 100 kph, you'll be getting __ kpl

6. ....at 120kph+, you'll get __ kpl

I'd fill it like this, as I've tried & calculated for only 2 of the above cases:

2. 41.8
6. <30

**Vishakh** · 09-28-2011, 08:52 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Or is it a moped carb connected to the ZMA???!!!

dont tease me like this guys today also when i checked reserve to reserve its 43

please note that this is under sane riding/ normal riding . I also rip my bike too had to adjust valve clearance before reaching 3k

. worst return was 31 when i filled extra premium and ripped moderately

.

Its a 223 cc engine and nobody takes it to get economy right. So dont be disappointed

. You guys can be jealous about me

**acs1207** · 09-28-2011, 08:59 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Sir thanks but I think there should be a correction, current flows from +ve to -ve whereas electrons flow from -ve to +ve.
And you asked him to check the battery voltage at 3k rpm if it is higher than 14.5V then NOT OK! Right? So for a 12 V battery you think below 14.5 is okay? But how is it possible, I mean the source is having a potential difference of 12 V so between any two points in a closed circuit the potential difference must not exceed 12 V???!!! And even checking directly at the battery terminals (assuming the resistance in the voltmeter wire to be negligible and no errors in the meter) the reading should be 12 V... Please correct me if I'm deviating/wrong.

At any point ( engine off or on ) the volt in a battery should be above 12V . Even in a car set up where the battery gets charged only when volt level falls ( the alternator kicks in only when level falls) it's always above 12 V . The alternator always supplies volts above the rated capacity of the battery .
Also , I don't think it's called a 12v battery anymore . Haven't checked my bike but my scooter battery gave no indication as to it's volt or amp . Instead there's only a code .

The 12MX5 must be meaning 12 V , 5 Ah . But I don't think they call it 12V battery .

Just checked on the net . Check out this link for details .

Motorcycle Battery Maintenace Guide - Motorcycle Maintenance Guide

**Vishakh** · 09-28-2011, 09:00 PM

Originally posted by Blumarine005 View Post

Hey!!!! Anybody who can answer this question ?????

check for cracks at joints

. Its pretty good deal lucky if you can bargain and get it cheaper

. also for scratches and other damages. I would suggest go for new ones

If i was you then i would go for new ones (Peace of mind lesser risks

)

**psr** · 09-28-2011, 09:00 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Sir thanks but I think there should be a correction, current flows from +ve to -ve whereas electrons flow from -ve to +ve.
And you asked him to check the battery voltage at 3k rpm if it is higher than 14.5V then NOT OK! Right? So for a 12 V battery you think below 14.5 is okay? But how is it possible, I mean the source is having a potential difference of 12 V so between any two points in a closed circuit the potential difference must not exceed 12 V???!!! And even checking directly at the battery terminals (assuming the resistance in the voltmeter wire to be negligible and no errors in the meter) the reading should be 12 V... Please correct me if I'm deviating/wrong.
Hey, thanks for the info there..and HID setup setup is a costly one as for me now. (as far as my reflector is okay

, I'm pretty happy with the current Philips Xtreme 55/60w)

Voltage flow is the potential difference between +ve to -Ve...Current flow is the movement of electrons ,which is -Ve to +Ve.
please read up on Lead Acid Battery regarding idle and charge condition .

Batteries

http://www.scubaengineer.com/documents/lead_acid_battery_charging_graphs.pdf

**sunny_** · 09-28-2011, 09:07 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

You want to check an electrical gadget without another electrical gadget ??!!

I meant just a check when we're not having proper tools (say alone on a highway at night)Well , let me see . .you can check with a 12V bulb whether it has charge , but not how much charge .
1--Connect one point of the bulb to a wire and the other point to the negative of the battery , then touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery .
2--Connect a wire to the positive terminal of the battery . Brush the other end of the wire to the negative battery . If there's charge in the battery , there'll be sparks as the wire brushes past the terminal .Yes this is what I was expecting...I've tried/seen it quite a no. of times

Easiest is using an electronic multimeter . Cost ? 100/- to 200/- !!!

Well, free of cost...I'll be borrowing from my college' Electronics laboratory

Thanks

and replies in bold.

**sunny_** · 09-28-2011, 09:31 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Voltage flow is the potential difference between +ve to -Ve...Current flow is the movement of electrons ,which is -Ve to +Ve.
please read up on Lead Acid Battery regarding idle and charge condition .

Batteries

http://www.scubaengineer.com/documen...ing_graphs.pdf

Sorry Sir, but according to what I've studied in my Physics and Baasic Electricals Course is that as Current is the rate of flow of charge and since electrons are negatively charged thus direction of current flow is opposite to that of electrons flow...well not a big issue with that here.Just directon.
Anyways...my question was like when a battery is rated as 12V how can the potential differnce across its terminals be higher than 12V??!!

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

At any point ( engine off or on ) the volt in a battery should be above 12V . Even in a car set up where the battery gets charged only when volt level falls ( the alternator kicks in only when level falls) it's always above 12 V . The alternator always supplies volts above the rated capacity of the battery .
Also , I don't think it's called a 12v battery anymore . Haven't checked my bike but my scooter battery gave no indication as to it's volt or amp . Instead there's only a code .

The 12MX5 must be meaning 12 V , 5 Ah . But I don't think they call it 12V battery .

Just checked on the net . Check out this link for details .

Motorcycle Battery Maintenace Guide - Motorcycle Maintenance Guide

Thanks, you sorted it out to some extent...and by "12 V battery" I meant that 'cause I've read at many places that "Battery: 12V, 9AH" or "Battery: 12V, 7AH"
So my doubt was simple...when it is written 12V, it don't mean anything else but that the potential difference between the two terminals of the battery is 12V.
Well, now trying to understand the work of the alternator..I think I got the point that the battery gets charged only when the voltage drops below 12V.

**psr** · 09-28-2011, 09:54 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Sorry Sir, but according to what I've studied in my Physics and Baasic Electricals Course is that as Current is the rate of flow of charge and since electrons are negatively charged thus direction of current flow is opposite to that of electrons flow...well not a big issue with that here.Just directon.
Anyways...my question was like when a battery is rated as 12V how can the potential differnce across its terminals be higher than 12V??!!

Nothing to be sorry about friend...we all live and learn. What you had mentioned is called the" Conventional " explanation of current movement and was advocated before Electrons were found to be reason for it..
All batteries have a low charge and a" fully " charged voltage condition...
Kindly read the contents of the Links I had attached in my previous post,and you will have some clarity on the subject....
Here is a link on the " Conventional " Vs. actual flow of current..

Conventional vs Electron Flow

**sunny_** · 09-28-2011, 10:18 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Nothing to be sorry about friend...we all live and learn. What you had mentioned is called the" Conventional " explanation of current movement and was advocated before Electrons were found to be reason for it..
All batteries have a low charge and a" fully " charged voltage condition...
Kindly read the contents of the Links I had attached in my previous post,and you will have some clarity on the subject....
Here is a link on the " Conventional " Vs. actual flow of current..

Conventional vs Electron Flow

Thank you Sir.
And I'm finding it hard to check those links as I'm using bluetooth dial-up connection via my mobile phone. Thanks for the links though, I'm sure they are helpful like previous ones.

**ashwinprakas** · 09-28-2011, 11:03 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

You guys can be jealous about me

Lol, were not jealous at all, bro.

We're just collecting frog legs and chicken heads along with some other voodoo stuff we found on the internet, the only thing remaining to complete the de-mileage'izing ritual is a pic of you riding you'r bike. BUHAHAHA!!!

**acs1207** · 09-29-2011, 12:11 AM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Well, now trying to understand the work of the alternator..I think I got the point that the battery gets charged only when the voltage drops below 12V.

The battery gets charged when the charging voltage is more than the battery voltage . At peak the voltage could be nearly 14 V without any load . With engine turned off the battery charge could be @ 12.2 to 12.6 V .
In ZMA R the alternator doesn't stop - unlike in 4 wheelers where voltage drop is sensed and alternator turns on . Here power is always supplied through RR but the battery is charged only when voltage in the battery drops due to usage .

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