Fuel cock

Recently there was a query about fuel cock . Yesterday I had taken off my fuel tank for connecting a relay for the horn ( wanted to fit 2 horns) and thought about cleaning the fuel filter . Am posting the pic . The dirt at the bottom is on the outside - was easy to clean . The dark color at the middle is inside the filter . Didn't have time to clean (try to) the middle portion - it wouldn't budge with some flicks with my finger . Will have a go at it later when I have time .
BTW , for those wanting to clean their fuel cock/filter , you just have to drain all the fuel in the tank while keeping the tap position at 'res' , you don't have to remove the tank.
And mann!!! The horns sound so badass now .

nyc bike dude...shines well..and also the led...mee too planing to fit those led..

Any ways to avoid the rust formation on ZMA-R ? had tried it teflon coating on my friend's ZMA but of no use. Any inputs apart from getting the silencer replaced would be beneficial

You can alternatively remove and keep the tank on it's side on a soft area,remove the tap and clean it...
The filter portion on the tap is push fit on most taps,so you can pull it out and clean the filter too..make sure there is no heat sealing of the filter on to the tap..by looking closely at where the filter attaches to the tap,if there is thin plastic flares it is heat sealed,and if the filter goes into the tap with clean edges,then it is push fit.

Same pinch me to did a DIY on fitting windtones, which horns did you use, and I did it using the TORCH LIGHT method so I didnt have to remove the tank.

And how do you keep the wire clips from slipping???

Guys need some help.

Its regarding the handle. During riding on bumpy roads the handle bars are giving feedback . I can feel every bump the bike runs over. Seems like something is loose in the front handle portion. Anyone know what is the problem? and how to rectify?

And earlier my handle had a slight bend towards right and a local mech corrected it now the handle when fully turned touches the visor. But when riding its straight where as it was not touching the visor earlier before rectifying the bent .

Regarding the handle touching the visor- you can either adjust the clutch position or pull the handle little towards you and tighten it.

Check everything above the fork's and below the handle bar.

The feedback issue arises with wornout/loose cone set.

And guess now you've learnt why, you should'nt leave you're bike alone with mech's. They might seem to fix the issue for the time being, but later on it bites you in the ass, unguarded.

When did you changed fork oil?How old is your bike and how much on odo?If more than 10k old,replace fork oil,Seems like the fork is not working well.

Check the bushes between the handlebar clamps.Also the Cone set.
Part No. 12


Just my suggestion,replace the handlebar.How did he corrected the bended handle?

Draining the tank and removing the tap is easier than removing the tank if cleaning the tank is not required . I had removed the tank to gain access to the wiring . Will check the filter next time I remove it .
Also , I think that if there is dirt in the tank then there is a chance of varying fuel consumption average .
The 2 horns which came with the bike were worthless - rated at 2 and 2.5 amps (I think) but were making sound like a moped's horn . The ones I fitted are left overs from my P180 . Earlier ( post RX100 and pre ZMA-R ) I used to give the bike at ASC or local mech for every problem I had . A half a dozen horns ( at least ) were replaced . And you know what .. I think the prob was the battery not charging enough ( might be the RR/coil defect or anything else) . As I said in some post earlier , the pride of ownership came back after I got my ZmaR ! The horns I have now were dismantled and refitted by myself (so the tuning may be a little off ). But since the tone of both differ it's a treat to the ears although the volume is not ear shattering . If I need that type of sound , then I have one big ROOTS Vibrosonic and two small Vibros ..!
If you meant the clips that connect to the horns , I used a nose-plier to tighten the grip and then pushed it into the horn's connector .
The opinion seems to bias towards the cone set . You can check it by tightening the bolt in the center ( dont tighten too much or you won't have control over the bike ) If the feed back lessens it is definitely the cone set .

Been there tried that, its either the wire tension or the current passing through them, that makes them get dis-connected. And funny thing is that I use the best quality clips available in the market.

After trying many things I guess am going to settle down with super glue, anyways will give it a try tomorrow and see how it works.

I got my bike services yesterday at the Castrol Bike Zone. Now its fine. Reaching till 60km/hr @ 3800 RPM(as PSR sir said it should). Quite happy now. Need to check the top speed. Earlier it was stuck to 110km/hr. I gues the culprit was clogged airfilter and carburettor.

But even then while on red lights, it doesnt picks up. I know it is a tourer so got a little less pick up tthan the other sportier bikes but I liking to get a good pick-up like the P220. Can anybody suggest hoe to get it without any loss on FE.Would Joel's ffe help?

Special thanks to PSR sir and Ashwin for their valuable suggestions!!!!!!

Its not the left side touching the visor its the right any ways will try adjusting it.

So true man next time it won't happen again I will look over the bike when its with the mech. Mistakes are the best lessons .

Aneesh my bike was bought on the same day as ashwin's . Its only 5k on odo

I am also feeling that its the cone and bushes but the thing is the bike is just 5k old and a damage to cone this early?

And about the last part ie the handle bend correction. I just took it to a local mech ( A good mech) and asked him to ride and check if it has a bend. He went for a ride and after returning he asked me to check wether the bend is there now and I rode then and it was corrected I don't have any idea what he did on the way while he rode the bike I got damn surprised to be honest. I asked him how did he do it and he said adjusted some bush ( Now i feel like he used impact on the handle to correct it)

Well I wonder how a damage to cone set this fast. I rarely take her on bad roads and even if I do I ride very slowly through pot holes and over bumps.

And one doubt I do flick the bike left and right at high speeds usually. And to be honest I am really hard on the front brake. I just slam it real hard. I almost get the back wheel lifted off the ground even when I shift the weight backward as much as possible. And often I hear a tak sound from the handle just when i release the break after stopping. Is this a cause of getting the cone damaged?

Replies in BOLD.

well one should not talk about the mileage of a big bike... but 46 kmpl is too good...