Alright.

@acs1207: Thanks. Yesterday after servicing the bike was working fine. Had a brief scare in the morning as the engine shut off on twisting the accelerator when i started on self. Second self it worked fine. Few 100mts down the road again the bike stopped and threw tantrums to start. Luckily it started in time and wifey cud catch the office bus just in time.

On my way to office I had to stop at a railway crossing for 5 mins but did not risk shutting the engine. The funny thing is i could not get the bike to neutral either so had to keep the clutch lever pressed all the time. Finding neutral when the engine is off is very easy though somehow i cannot get it while the bike is running. Is it a newbie error or old bike niggle?

Coming to DIY: The ASC did not have indicator buzzer in stock so i am thinking i will buy it from another place and try to fix it on my own. Does any one has a picture of where/how the buzzer fits ? I guess it will be under the seat because thats where the security system was fitted (which i got removed).

@acs1207: Thanks.

There is no drastic difference in ZMA from 2007 to 2011 that would contribute to the said specific problem....I have seen ZMA AFR set at 2.5 turns running ok, and after a total cleaning of my carb found my bike capable of running at 2.5 turns AFR,though I was not happy with it....so i am on 3.5 turns now without issues.
For sudden re-set of the console. if you are sure your battery is good, then check for fouled battery contact, and just remove and re-insert the main console fuse in the box under the seat

I suggest you open the seat, remove the connector from the CDI ,spray WD40 or Zorrick in to the connector holes,and re-fit.
The buzzer for turn indicator can be connected across the flasher and mounted by the flasher side....

Thanks Sir. Any one has pics of how CDI and flasher look ?

Thanks a lot sir. I don't have WD-40 yet, will get it asap. I hope the flasher is plug-n-play type.

Just came back from parking. The bike started in one kick. Looks like my bike wants to embarrass me in front of my wife only.

Thank God it did not happen with your G F. ..The problem is really a bugging one and happens at the most inopportune moment.
To release the CDI connector and pull it from the CDI unit, You have to press the Lock lever at the side of the Connector and pull.

Hi,
Despite being an old member, I've hardly expressed myself on this lovely forum, while regularly browsing through the 'talkies'.

I own a 2006 zma that has clocked 35K. Hardly using it for my daily commute to office for a long time now. I've been living with a long list of issues.

Before I list down, I must let know here that during all my long rides, these issues hardly bother me, only for the fuel consumption - just 25kmpl(It used to be better earlier despite all the ripping sessions)

Yesterday, I rode out to the market and was mightily pissed! and now I'm forced to write

I've been trying to figure out the cause of all these issues with my humble mechanic, but in vain...

1. Idling not constant - The idling has a lot of variation and many times the bike stalls suddenly while running on decent idle speeds(on all of the signals). I have not been able to identify a typical pattern when the engine stall during idling.
Note that I make sure the engine is warmed for a couple of minutes before I ride.

2. During a cold start, when the choke is used, the bike runs either with the choke completely ON or me throttling the accelerator.
I mean, using choke while warming - say, decreasing the choke from ON or increasing the choke from OFF, has to be done instantly, like a switch - either ON or OFF, else the engine stalls halfway.

3. All the revs below ~5K RPM sticks and the revs do not come down normally on deceleration. This, however, does not happen and the revs come down perfectly for anything above about 5K.

4. Yesterday, after driving in the traffic, I sensed that there is a lot of jerking at slow speeds even with correct gear shifting. eg., even in first gear, the acceleration is not smooth and with a lot sudden jerks - add to it the very sticky revs not coming down.


None of these issues are noticeable post 5K rpm.
I'm not sure if all the issues here point at one single culprit or multiple sources.

My mechanic has failed badly for a long time to identify the source for this issue. I tried ASC also, but I always knew they wouldn't be able to resolve and I was right.
The carburetor was cleaned repeatedly and tuned but to no avail. We looked for air leaks - the insulator with the O-ring has been replaced.
I'm always suspecting that there is some leak that has not been fixed due to which the engine should be running very lean - the cause of sticking revs.
I'm contemplating on replacing the carb as a solution, but have still held on and not changed.
My mechanic says it could be either of the carburetor or some electrical issue that is going unnoticed.

One last, but important thing - The air-screw of carburetor was jammed a couple of years ago and was opened up by drilling and replaced. First, I felt the issue is because of tuning and got the air screw removed. Later any kind of tuning of the air screw has not helped, and I have sealed it with RTV Silcone sealant(Anabond 666T) in despair and that has not changed anything...

Help me please

Replies in BOLD.

Those who want to get rid of reflectors for adding crash guard.



After removing the nuts they'll come out of the bike, then take them to any hardware shop and cut off the reflectors, after you've done that, apply primer and then paint it. DONE.

I guess with a GF i would prefer a car ;-) .

Anyway i purchased a buzzer for 60 bucks and tried putting it in parallel with the flasher but it did not work for me. Putting the buzzer alone too did not work (i tried reversing the wires too). I have tested the buzzer with a single AAA and it does sound.

Please let me know if anything else needs to be done ?

Under the seat it is . Pls refer to psr's pic . The connector will be in |_ shape so you can't mix up the connections . Connect the wires to the metal pins on the flasher (leave some length for the plug )and plug it and check . If it doesn't beep ( some buzzers don't have polarity and they work any which way you connect it) reverse the polarity and connect it . That's it . Oh - a piece of double sided tape will be good enough to keep it from rattling .

The flasher is the black thingy - see pic below.

do you mean he has a GF as well ???
You have not posted the performance of the bike . The speed of the bike in various gears at various RPMs would've been helpful . Also what's the current mileage ?
I'm guessing that post 5k rpm it'll be WOT and regulated AFR doesn't play a part . If that's so then the prob should lie somewhere around the carb section . Look for air leaks - broken/disconnected pipes/tubes etc. Also check the spark plug .
I'm not an expert in this section - so I'll wait with you to get result oriented replies .

Also check for shorts by means of exposed wire ends / connectors . Disconnect the battery terminals and reconnect it after cleaning and applying grease to it .

Replies also in bold.

You can find neutral by giving the gear lever just a little tap from the top when it is engaged in 2nd gear.

@ACS Sir,
Did the greasing, now I have a query. Will the battery drain if there's even a small contact between + and - ???

Its not logical, but somehow I suspect water/moisture because when I take my bike after parking overnight I see mosquitos flying from the front fairing gap. Has anyone else experienced this kind of shorts???

To put it in neutral while engine running is simple, just accelerate and tap the gear lever. The shifting always tends to smoothen when the engine's in higher rpms.