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**ashwinprakas** · 01-06-2012, 09:04 PM

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

Exactly!. However 3rd gear onwards there no drama. I had my first ride in heavy flow today on OMR. Overtaking three wheeled parasites was a breeze. I rode carefully never ripping the bike though i did get to 5th on 40+ speeds. I am shifting around 3.5K mark. Is it right ? RVMs some how dont look adequately sized to me.

Its all ok as long as both you and the ride are comfortable. My style being a rookie - In any gear other than 1st, I dont let the RPM go below 3k.
But a few days back me and Sarin bro went to KNPY and he was riding, and surprisingly he was riding as low as 1.75k in 5th gear. So ultimately the riders ability plays a big role, even while maneuvering the bike in high gears through traffic.

I guess i may need few tips of riding the bike from you guys now. As there are numerous speed breakers on my route to office, some less than 100m apart, what i am doing is as i about to touch the hump i quickly shift to 1st (speed is about 5 till this time) with the clutch pressed just in time to prevent knocking and then tackle the hump with the clutch still pressed. Riding the bike in 2nd gear between the humps looks like putting undue strain on the engine that is why i shift to 3rd.

Is it right ? I guess not. But how would one tackle short spaced humps then ?

Always remember. Better RIP than KNOCK.

Replies in BOLD.

**shubhamAT** · 01-06-2012, 09:18 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Always remember. Better RIP than KNOCK..

I don't let the engine knock, however i m almost skipping the 2nd. My concern is that i may be using too much clutch.

**ashwinprakas** · 01-06-2012, 09:26 PM

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

I don't let the engine knock, however i m almost skipping the 2nd. My concern is that i may be using too much clutch.

If you fear about using more clutch then as I said, better ride at higher rpm in lower gear, so even the slightest possibility if using the clutch is avoided.

But seriously speaking, dont worry about the clutch. No matter how much you save it, you'll have to replace it between 30~35K Kms.

**Above_All** · 01-06-2012, 10:05 PM

Originally posted by Jdsouza81 View Post

Like every ZMA owners, I had an issue with cracked front mudguard and side panels. I had tried using feviquick, but it would not last.
With the advise of one of my friend, I filled the cracks with feviquick and cotton. It has held strong since, even through the pothole filled NH66.
Has anyone else ever tried the combination of cotton and Feviquick before?

Originally posted by psr View Post

I was planning on Glass fiber reinforcement, and you have done cotton fiber one...it may not last long since the fibers are not that strong...but yours is very practical,and an easy DIY...

I got my HH Passion mudguard broken when i added air horns near it , i tried several fixes like feviquick , m-seal etc but nothing last more than a month . 1 day i got an idea of using the clamp/patti used to fit lock on cycle , drilled the mudguard using soldier gun & fixed that patti ( or whatever it is called i am not sure ) with 8 no. bolts , now its been more than 2 years but the mudguard is good not any noise or motion . Total cost 10 rupees .
Check the attached picture for it .

I too have broken side pannels of my passion , because of trying to move bike with unintentional application of force by knee on side pannel ( though i am not intended to do it , but it happens most of time ) i used feviquick there from both outer & internal side .

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

First of all please don't use bold my eyes are getting sore.

Yes it's good to divide the quotes of same post & answers each thing we want instead of making bold's in that quote .

**shubhamAT** · 01-06-2012, 10:12 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

If you fear about using more clutch then as I said, better ride at higher rpm in lower gear, so even the slightest possibility if using the clutch is avoided.

But seriously speaking, dont worry about the clutch. No matter how much you save it, you'll have to replace it between 30~35K Kms.

Okay. Thanks.

**aarunn** · 01-06-2012, 11:20 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Suspect ignition key wiring. Might be loose contact.
Not able to completely apprehend the issue since the audo isnt clear, is the bike cranking by itself or are you doing it???

Anyways, nice keychain.

Took it to SVC...they said whole wiring Harness needs a replacement

Bike is not cranking by itself....
this symptom is usually shown in the mornng...
I start the bike .... and it goes off when the handle is turned side ways...

Will shoot another vdo @ night and post

* got the key ring FREE from nearby oilshop

**ashwinprakas** · 01-06-2012, 11:35 PM

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

Took it to SVC...they said whole wiring Harness needs a replacement

I would've done the same if someone else was paying the bill. But since you're paying it, I suggest you go step by step, like start from the ignition key and move on to its wiring and so on.

Bike is not cranking by itself....

Thats a relief. Else would've been freaky, once had a friends scooty pep which went bezerk after a long ride, even if we turn off the ignition the engine would still be running i.e we could hear it, but other than that the bike was normal, nothing from the dash worked, even when we gave throttle nothing happend, the engine was just idly running, but the moment we turn on the ignition it's start to work like normal, it was acting like a car, turn on ignition and ride on, turn off ignition and it would'nt work but still engine was idly running.

this symptom is usually shown in the mornng...
I start the bike .... and it goes off when the handle is turned side ways...

I still stand by loose contact.

Will shoot another vdo @ night and post

* got the key ring FREE from nearby oilshop

Do one thing. Be good to the dealer and make sure he gives you another one, then courier it to me.

Replies in BOLD.

**sunny_** · 01-06-2012, 11:58 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Ashwin and his bike are one of a kind....his young & new bike had already seen the bore, piston etc., changed...so i am at a loss to explain the specific phenomena.All I know is that ZMA has a rev limiter in it's CDI set at 9K + RPM. I don't think anyone would have tried so many things on their NEW bike as Ashwin had done on his.. That said a Karizma on 5th gear can never reach the RPM rev limiter ,unless there is a clutch slip.So if engine cuts off at 8+ K RPM there could be other issues,including the spark plug.
The HH ZMA is a copy of Honda CRF ,but the CDI and it's functioning are totally different from it's Ancestors.

Yeah, seems so with his bike

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

@sunny: Will practice more for 1-N. Might be due to the light weight that i was perceiving speed more in Apache.

All the best.

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Well I got the same feeling when I rode an rtr 180

. Bike zooms like a bullet. Don't worry mate its only a feeling. ZMA always feels lazy but the bike pulls off and you won't even feel it. I realized this when I had a dog fight with an r15. I could see him as a dot in my mirror and my bike was already past 120 kmph

.

Your riding abilities plus the R15 rider was a dumbass.

The 6th gear in R15 can eat Karizma anywhere above 115 kph.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Right on, if launched 100% perfectly then nothing beats the ZMA in a drag, not even the RTR180 or P220. But the thing is you need balls of steel to pull a feat like that, cause past 5k in 1st gear the torque is so much that we feel like the insides of the engine are going to rip apart and we get scared and back out.
If you need steel balls to pull a Karizma in 1st gear past 5k rpm, then you must be requiring iron balls to pull a SBK

Nothing soooo mcuh felt by me in 1st gear, yeah the torque is too much but if we "properly" accelerate even in a drag then it is very much manageable.
Mine was normal with stock plug, but the iridiums have a slight lag so when we whack open the throttle for a millisecond there wont be any repsonse, then all of a sudden the bike drags you to a wheelie, once it caught me unexpectedly and the result was a torn ligament in my right leg.
Oh yes! You learnt your lesson. Never play with its abilities when it is responding well.
Have been thinking, and I've got another wacky theory.
Normally there are two types of limiters right, physical and electronic. What if the ZMA had both.???
1. Electronic - My bike's proof that the electronic limiter exists, cause as I said, be it any gear, post some time in the 8.25K mark and the bike dies.
I don't think any limiter (electronic or physical) would want your engine to shut down in the middle of a high speed ride.

2. Physical - Suddenly rip the bike in 2nd gear and the bike nearing the 9.6K mark just hits the brick wall, there are no RPM bounce backs.

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Beating an rtr 180 is ok but I don't think you can beat a 220 on a stock ZMA not at all. Even if you ask rossi to do it.

. There is a chance if you are dragging a 1+ year old 220 or a not properly maintained 220 ( the thing is majority fall in this category

)

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

I hope when you were typing this you already knew that RTR180 kicks P220's ass in a drag???

Maybe on paper P220 rules, but on the track, the RTR180's the quickest Indian around.

Maybe Vishakh meant that a Karizma can beat a P220 mainly in higher speeds range if the P220 is not maintained well or old.
Yes, RTR180 is the quickest (in initials) on the papers, I'm yet to experience in real.

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

Exactly!. However 3rd gear onwards there no drama.
Gear ratio factor.
I had my first ride in heavy flow today on OMR. Overtaking three wheeled parasites was a breeze. I rode carefully never ripping the bike though i did get to 5th on 40+ speeds. I am shifting around 3.5K mark. Is it right ? RVMs some how dont look adequately sized to me.
Yes, same here, specially in traffic. ZMR's look better but we can't use those.

I guess i may need few tips of riding the bike from you guys now. As there are numerous speed breakers on my route to office, some less than 100m apart, what i am doing is as i about to touch the hump i quickly shift to 1st (speed is about 5 till this time) with the clutch pressed just in time to prevent knocking and then tackle the hump with the clutch still pressed. Riding the bike in 2nd gear between the humps looks like putting undue strain on the engine that is why i shift to 3rd.

Is it right ? I guess not. But how would one tackle short spaced humps then ?

By riding slower in a lower gear in between those humps than your normal ride shift patterns.

Originally posted by shubhamAT View Post

I don't let the engine knock, however i m almost skipping the 2nd. My concern is that i may be using too much clutch.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

If you fear about using more clutch then as I said, better ride at higher rpm in lower gear, so even the slightest possibility if using the clutch is avoided.

But seriously speaking, dont worry about the clutch. No matter how much you save it, you'll have to replace it between 30~35K Kms.

But it is a good practice to use the clutch minimum (only when needed).
Suppose you switch to SBKs or cars, then this practice will help you there.

**ashwinprakas** · 01-07-2012, 12:22 AM

If you need steel balls to pull a Karizma in 1st gear past 5k rpm, then you must be requiring iron balls to pull a SBK

Let me put 1st gear redlining in simple words.
SBK way way way way smoother than ZMA, ZMA way way way way scarier than SBK.

Redline a Ninja and ZMA side by side in 1st gear and you'll notice what I mean.

Nothing soooo mcuh felt by me in 1st gear, yeah the torque is too much but if we "properly" accelerate even in a drag then it is very much manageable.

Hehe.. If we had the liberty to "PROPERLY" accelerate then it would'nt be called a DRAG!!!.

I don't think any limiter (electronic or physical) would want your engine to shut down in the middle of a high speed ride.

Who said anything about shutting down in between a high speed run. It only shuts down when you're post the mark for a while. And engine stalling at high speeds are so cool that you wont even notice the engine has stalled, until you realize the bike comming below 100 and you try to accelerate, but the bike doesnt.

Its surprising what all you can find once you use the search function.

**EDIT**

Though I found ravi@17bhp's post I didnt go through the whole thread earlier(Page 172~176, Didnt have the patience to read the rest.).

Guess by now you've read through the pages, I'm really sorry for being 'Always Right'. And I hope you're now imagining me with a big grin

on my face, and yes thats also true

. But no hard feelings, its all forgotten, especially the guys who claimed to have done 140ish on their ZMA's

.

**acs1207** · 01-07-2012, 09:50 AM

Originally posted by adityazma8315 View Post

hey guys can i install hid bulb in my zma without projector will it affect my reflector plzz help me with ur rep

HIDs are way cooler than Halogens.But with reflector it'd blind on-comers . I had it installed and removed .

@ ashwin - I stand corrected . The TC bar stool's figures are not available . What ype of 'Joel'ing are you planning on ? Better contact vineeth bro for details about his mods and experience .

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

....

And regarding helmet this was the only one model in the shop that my head would fit in. I tried atleast 25 helmets all were tight. The shopkeeper was losing his patience.

. And my hair is like haystack

.
....

I had STUDDS Ninja specially ordered . Here they only stock upto medium size . Even the XL Ninja (600 mm ) is sort of tight fit for me . And the visibility is lesser than my aged STUDDS full-mask.

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

...........please next time when your bike hit reserve, do post here for how much you filled and how many kms your bike ran before hitting reserve again, as simple as that!

Just note down the odo reading when hitting reserve , how much fuel you fill and the next reserve odo reading , do some maths !!

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is possible that the thin electrode is not able to build a strong enough flame kernel at higher RPMs,like the stock plug.When I had the side gapped plug I could easily touch 120 kmph....I am presently on a G power with smaller sized electrode, and found it to be good at RPMs below 6K...When i take the bike on the highway I will know for sure.

Thin electrode problem is what I think too . Am thinking about putting in an ordinary plug for testing . But since I I rarely ride WOT , Iridium is OK for me .

Originally posted by aarunn View Post

Took it to SVC...they said whole wiring Harness needs a replacement

Bike is not cranking by itself....
this symptom is usually shown in the mornng...
I start the bike .... and it goes off when the handle is turned side ways...

Had the same problem with my P180-s headlight . ASC recommended wiring harness replacement . Went to a local mech and he located the loose contact and extended the wire (earlier P180s H/L wires were short) and it was OK for a couple of years.The 2nd harness too had the same problem after a couple of years . Did the same thing .

**ashwinprakas** · 01-07-2012, 10:36 AM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

@ ashwin - I stand corrected . The TC bar stool's figures are not available .

Its pointless, cause there's nothing to compare it with.

What ype of 'Joel'ing are you planning on ?

Everything.
1. BBK(235cc)
2. Head Work.
3. FFE

Better contact vineeth bro for details about his mods and experience .

Actually did that a long while ago.

Thin electrode problem is what I think too . Am thinking about putting in an ordinary plug for testing . But since I I rarely ride WOT , Iridium is OK for me .

The small electrode may be an issue during lower rpm riding cause at lower rpm riding the stock plug produces more spark in comparison, because of the increased resistance, and since Iridiums also have lesser resistance, that might be the reason I'm experiencing an initial lag. But at WOT, the Iridiums emit more spark than the Stock plug.

Not much quality, but will do.

Replies in BOLD.

And Sir, Ignore the PM I've sent you. At first didnt get that by TC you meant Turbo Charged.

**psr** · 01-07-2012, 11:05 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Everything.
1. BBK(235cc)
2. Head Work.
3. FFE

Better contact vineeth bro for details about his mods and experience .

Actually did that a long while ago.

Thin electrode problem is what I think too . Am thinking about putting in an ordinary plug for testing . But since I I rarely ride WOT , Iridium is OK for me .

The small electrode may be an issue during lower rpm riding cause at lower rpm riding the stock plug produces more spark in comparison, because of the increased resistance, and since Iridiums also have lesser resistance, that might be the reason I'm experiencing an initial lag. But at WOT, the Iridiums emit more spark than the Stock plug.
Replies in BOLD.

God luck to your mods...
As the RPM increases the spark power and duration reduces,irrespective of whichever plug you use....

**ashwinprakas** · 01-07-2012, 11:33 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

God luck to your mods...

No luck yet sir, these are my plans, but not sure it will happen anytime soon.

Replies in BOLD.

**kaynmantis** · 01-07-2012, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Are you sure you're not calculating this on a weekly/monthly basis?
.....
please next time when your bike hit reserve, do post here for how much you filled and how many kms your bike ran before hitting reserve again, as simple as that!

Its quite possible to hit 50+ kmpl. I did that without actually trying hard. Cant remember the exact figures. But it went like this, I hit reserve, filled it, went to reserve again. Calculated the distant covered. Got somewhere between 50-53 kmpl. Note, the ride covered both highway and city. So in pure highway, it should give a little more if ridden conservatively.

Originally posted by Dan_GP View Post

About the relation between the Lag and the Iridium which discussed here a few pages back, yes I do feel it too..

I have fitted Iridium in my ZMR, and since then I could not go above 120kmph how hard and which method I try.. Are these factors relate each other??

Am currently using iridium, can easily hit 120+ without a hiccup. I find almost no difference with stock plugs except morning cold start. iridium always manage to start bike even on the coldest days with single click without choke. Haven't used choke ever since I installed iridium.

**ashwinprakas** · 01-07-2012, 01:36 PM

Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post

Its quite possible to hit 50+ kmpl. I did that without actually trying hard. Cant remember the exact figures. But it went like this, I hit reserve, filled it, went to reserve again. Calculated the distant covered. Got somewhere between 50-53 kmpl. Note, the ride covered both highway and city. So in pure highway, it should give a little more if ridden conservatively.

Yup, thats definitely what am saying. Touching the 50~55Kmpl mark is way easier than everyone thinks. Once there was a ZMA(2003) that could do close to 60Kmpl according to the owner.

Am currently using iridium, can easily hit 120+ without a hiccup. I find almost no difference with stock plugs except morning cold start. iridium always manage to start bike even on the coldest days with single click without choke. Haven't used choke ever since I installed iridium.

Have'nt had any hickups in the highend, only facing some initial pickup issues, maybe mine are faulty or something. God knows.

And about the choke, me too stopped using it for like a month, bikes up in the first kick after ignitions on.

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