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**Vishakh** · 11-20-2011, 07:11 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Im serious, please direct me on how to properly warm up the ride. Reason for asking this is.

1. Sometimes without choke bike starts after 2-3 tries, everything goes well but when we ride bike misses a lot of beats and stall's a few times.

2. Start the bike with 1/2 choke and throttle -or- Start the bike with choke on for 10 sec's and ride the bike bike responds like above but only stalls once, then everythings ok.

3. I start the bike with choke on and keeps it on and lets it idle, my idle rpm when hot is 1.5k, but with choke on the rpm goes to between 2.5~3K but still wont let go of the choke, will keep it on till the RPM loweres down to 1.5~2K or in some cases the engine stall's. After that I on the bike without choke and start riding, and the ride's real smooth, no hickups no nothing...

So which of the above's right???? And is there any other methode out there suitable for the ZMA.

Ashwin the way I warm up requires a lot of patience

. I never use choke first of all unless in extreme cases. I do two kicks before switching on the ignition every morning. Then I switch on the ignition and then comes the third kick and the bike will come to life( most times)

. Then at times the bike finds hard to breath( happens occasionally). For that I open the throttle very very slightly to give slight help for the bike to settle down(maximum upto one minute) and after that i close the throttle. Then for 5 minutes I just sit on her and allow her to warm up by herself. Its a bit both time and fuel consuming process but this is the way I do it

.

The main thing is that after switching on the ignition when she starts on that 3rd kick( ie, the first kick after Ignition is on) it fills my mind with happiness and satisfaction that makes my day. Which is according to me PRICELESS

.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-20-2011, 07:18 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

I never use choke first of all unless in extreme cases.

Me too.

I do two kicks before switching on the ignition every morning.

Hadn't done this method till now.

Then at times the bike finds hard to breath I open the throttle very very slightly to give slight help for the bike to settle down

Same here.

it fills my mind with happiness and satisfaction that makes my day. Which is according to me PRICELESS

Absolutely right,Mine usually starts in first self,I always use self start to start the bike unless its very cold or rainy season.

BTW my bike now.

Pic of old tank

**ashwinprakas** · 11-20-2011, 08:06 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Ashwin the way I warm up requires a lot of patience

. I never use choke first of all unless in extreme cases. I do two kicks before switching on the ignition every morning. Then I switch on the ignition and then comes the third kick and the bike will come to life( most times)

. Then at times the bike finds hard to breath( happens occasionally). For that I open the throttle very very slightly to give slight help for the bike to settle down(maximum upto one minute) and after that i close the throttle. Then for 5 minutes I just sit on her and allow her to warm up by herself. Its a bit both time and fuel consuming process but this is the way I do it

.

The main thing is that after switching on the ignition when she starts on that 3rd kick( ie, the first kick after Ignition is on) it fills my mind with happiness and satisfaction that makes my day. Which is according to me PRICELESS

.

The above technique you are using, has the same end result as using the choke. Cause by kicking the bike before ignition makes the bike rich.
And even without any of the above, My bike does start with the first press of the starter or the first kick(to be honest I've kicked the bike less than 10 times since the date of purchase.) but I never do so cause then the bike'd run an unhealthy rpm and would be doing the same till the bike gradually sets at optimum idle RPM. And not only that but after the bike'd run a few KM's like a dog that'd caught partial paralysis.

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

my bike now.

Today morning noticed the empty reflector slot's and have been searching till now for my old reflectors, thought you might need them. But unfortunately cant seem to find them, guess I've lost it along with the whole cowl and the rest of the fittings.

**Vishakh** · 11-20-2011, 09:04 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

The above technique you are using, has the same end result as using the choke. Cause by kicking the bike before ignition makes the bike rich.
And even without any of the above, My bike does start with the first press of the starter or the first kick(to be honest I've kicked the bike less than 10 times since the date of purchase.) but I never do so cause then the bike'd run an unhealthy rpm and would be doing the same till the bike gradually sets at optimum idle RPM. And not only that but after the bike'd run a few KM's like a dog that'd caught partial paralysis.

End result might be same but giving a dead kick helps in circulating oil to valves and all before firing up the engine. So its good for the engine

. And giving choke might result in higher carbon deposits since the engine is not warmed up and combustion takes place only with the help of the spark. After the engine heats up the temp of the AFR mixture going into the engine will increase due to the heat of the piston thus better combustion of fuel and lesser carbon deposits AFAIK.

These are very very negligible reasons and the difference obtained may not even be noticed but I do it

. I might be wrong about what stated above and all experts are welcome to correct me if so

. After all I am just a novice here. And still has a lot to learn.

**selvin rebz** · 11-20-2011, 09:52 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Yup, but requires experience. Else it can be made a helluva lot easier by doing it the Pulsar way by removing the tank and then acessing it, cause then you'll not have to go through the tedious procedure of getting the fairing off and on.

@ashwin
changing right side pilot lamp seems easier but on left side ,speedometer cable or rpm i guess is obstructing so cant..

can u please tell me how to change it?? shall i just pull pilot lamp out or there are some other things to be done??

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-20-2011, 10:19 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Today morning noticed the empty reflector slot's and have been searching till now for my old reflectors, thought you might need them. But unfortunately cant seem to find them, guess I've lost it along with the whole cowl and the rest of the fittings.

Its OK.

Thanks for the search.

Have a look at my DIY on Karizma Oil change.

Karizma/Karizma-R Oil Change

**psr** · 11-20-2011, 10:27 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Now having problems related to carburetor.

PSR Sir help!

Found petrol leaking from the marked part.Loosened and tightened the screw again.The tube is damaged due to age.

To stop petrol leak you may have to close it permanently.....
1. close petrol tap and open the drain screw fully and take it out...let the petrol float bowl dry for 30 minutes..clean the tip of the drain lock screw and apply THREE BOND to the front of the screw and tighten it. Wait another 30 minutes before opening tap and using the bike..
2. Same steps as the first one, but instead of Three Bond , apply Fevitite Rapid and tighten the screw...Wait for 30 minutes ,then open petrol tap.

**psr** · 11-20-2011, 10:29 PM

Here is the Proper D I Y of adjusting Karizma's Tappet clearance...The example is that of Honda CRF 230 Engine, which is same as ZMA...
The " T " alignment for TDC should be aligned at the compression stroke and not the Exhaust stroke...Not observing this will lead to Tappet noise.
Honda CRF230 valve clearance adjustment

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-20-2011, 10:37 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

To stop petrol leak you may have to close it permanently.....
1. close petrol tap and open the drain screw fully and take it out...let the petrol float bowl dry for 30 minutes..clean the tip of the drain lock screw and apply THREE BOND to the front of the screw and tighten it. Wait another 30 minutes before opening tap and using the bike..
2. Same steps as the first one, but instead of Three Bond , apply Fevitite Rapid and tighten the screw...Wait for 30 minutes ,then open petrol tap.

Thanks for the reply sir.

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here is the Proper D I Y of adjusting Karizma's Tappet clearance...The example is that of Honda CRF 230 Engine, which is same as ZMA...
The " T " alignment for TDC should be aligned at the compression stroke and not the Exhaust stroke...Not observing this will lead to Tappet noise.
Honda CRF230 valve clearance adjustment

Great find sir.

**satheez_7** · 11-20-2011, 10:42 PM

[QUOTE=Aneesh@4GHz;735675]

/QUOTE]

Aneesh, Your bike looks cool dude..Good job

**Vishakh** · 11-20-2011, 10:47 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here is the Proper D I Y of adjusting Karizma's Tappet clearance...The example is that of Honda CRF 230 Engine, which is same as ZMA...
The " T " alignment for TDC should be aligned at the compression stroke and not the Exhaust stroke...Not observing this will lead to Tappet noise.
Honda CRF230 valve clearance adjustment

very detailed link

. Thanks Sir .

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-20-2011, 10:51 PM

Originally posted by satheez_7 View Post

Aneesh, Your bike looks cool dude..Good job

Thanks bro.

**acs1207** · 11-21-2011, 10:00 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

To stop petrol leak you may have to close it permanently.....
1. close petrol tap and open the drain screw fully and take it out...let the petrol float bowl dry for 30 minutes..clean the tip of the drain lock screw and apply THREE BOND to the front of the screw and tighten it. Wait another 30 minutes before opening tap and using the bike..
2. Same steps as the first one, but instead of Three Bond , apply Fevitite Rapid and tighten the screw...Wait for 30 minutes ,then open petrol tap.

Sir , can a rubber washer be used instead

? Closing it permanently means trouble in the future ( not being able to drain the bowl normally ) .

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 10:40 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Here is the Proper D I Y of adjusting Karizma's Tappet clearance...The example is that of Honda CRF 230 Engine, which is same as ZMA...
The " T " alignment for TDC should be aligned at the compression stroke and not the Exhaust stroke...Not observing this will lead to Tappet noise.
Honda CRF230 valve clearance adjustment

Sir, the timing hole index mark in the ZMA in facing downward.
And there's no mark near the 'T' in our ZMA's. When me and Aneesh failed to adjust by aligning the 'T' with the timing hole index mark(I know, it was stupid.

) But Sarin bro came along and said that it was'nt the 'T' but another mark near it, which should be aligned, then we saw something like a line mark on the left of the 'T' here have a look(Look real close

).

We aligned it with the timing hole index mark and adjusted the tappets, it was then that the bike started but started making sewing machine like noises.

**psr** · 11-21-2011, 12:08 PM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Sir , can a rubber washer be used instead

? Closing it permanently means trouble in the future ( not being able to drain the bowl normally ) .

The hole size is very small and sealing is done by the taper on the screw,jamming into the aluminum taper inside the bowl..If anything maleable is used inbetween it will definitely get crushed and may impede proper sealing..which is why i suggested something that will go in and settle in even smaller gaps.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Sir, the timing hole index mark in the ZMA in facing downward.
And there's no mark near the 'T' in our ZMA's. When me and Aneesh failed to adjust by aligning the 'T' with the timing hole index mark(I know, it was stupid.

) But Sarin bro came along and said that it was'nt the 'T' but another mark near it, which should be aligned, then we saw something like a line mark on the left of the 'T' here have a look(Look real close

).
We aligned it with the timing hole index mark and adjusted the tappets, it was then that the bike started but started making sewing machine like noises.

I think you should go through the contents of the link . The " T " mark will come up during exhaust and Compression TDC..so two events with same reading but different Stroke event.....
The adjustment should be made during the compression " T " TDC and not during Exhaust " T " alignment.
Please take the time to read and Understand the contents in the Link.

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