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**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 12:38 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The hole size is very small and sealing is done by the taper on the screw,jamming into the aluminum taper inside the bowl..If anything maleable is used inbetween it will definitely get crushed and may impede proper sealing..which is why i suggested something that will go in and settle in even smaller gaps.

I think you should go through the contents of the link . The " T " mark will come up during exhaust and Compression TDC..so two events with same reading but different Stroke event.....
The adjustment should be made during the compression " T " TDC and not during Exhaust " T " alignment.
Please take the time to read and Understand the contents in the Link.

Oops, sorry sir, did'nt notice the info below the pic. And sir, after reading it, I've got another query, what will happen if we rotate it clockwise(i.e the crankshaft). Cause while adjusting mine the T always slipped due to the rigidness of the compression stroke and I remember moving the bike backward to bring it back.

**psr** · 11-21-2011, 03:00 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Oops, sorry sir, did'nt notice the info below the pic. And sir, after reading it, I've got another query, what will happen if we rotate it clockwise(i.e the crankshaft). Cause while adjusting mine the T always slipped due to the rigidness of the compression stroke and I remember moving the bike backward to bring it back.

To avoid tightness of movement of the rotor I had advised you to remove the spark plug...
Clockwise or anti clockwise the piston will move up and down as per the crank big end pin position.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 03:29 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

To avoid tightness of movement of the rotor I had advised you to remove the spark plug...
Clockwise or anti clockwise the piston will move up and down as per the crank big end pin position.

Yes sir, we did it exacly as directed by you, but still lots of force was required to get the thing into action. There was only say 10% reduction in force even after removing the sparkplug and the difference noted was that air would pump out of the sparkplug window after every stroke.

And sir, a new observation.

Today morning I started my bike with choke but even after say about 3Mins the bike did'nt die, so turned the ignition off and on and started the bike without choke and the bike started and settled at 1250Rpm then I applied full choke, but bike didnt stop, but instead kept raising till 2K and then finally died. But after that the bike didnt start, it took a whole 5 minutes for the bike to start again. Why??? Are there any exact guidelines in using choke for the ZMA.?

**psr** · 11-21-2011, 03:41 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

And sir, a new observation.

Today morning I started my bike with choke but even after say about 3Mins the bike did'nt die, so turned the ignition off and on and started the bike without choke and the bike started and settled at 1250Rpm then I applied full choke, but bike didnt stop, but instead kept raising till 2K and then finally died. But after that the bike didnt start, it took a whole 5 minutes for the bike to start again. Why??? Are there any exact guidelines in using choke for the ZMA.?

I had written about this also while clarifying on the AFR screw setting...that as winter progress the need for choke will be felt for cold start,since engine will be cold and may not be able to get hot quickly enough to vaporize the incoming charge of AF mix ,as much as in hot ambient...The need and time duration of choke is dependent on ambient temperature and AFR setting.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 04:53 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I had written about this also while clarifying on the AFR screw setting...that as winter progress the need for choke will be felt for cold start,since engine will be cold and may not be able to get hot quickly enough to vaporize the incoming charge of AF mix ,as much as in hot ambient...The need and time duration of choke is dependent on ambient temperature and AFR setting.

Yeah sir, read that, but just for information's sake I'd like to know if there are any limitations to using the choke i.e excessively???? Im not worried about temp problems like carbon deposits that can be burnt away by ripping, am worried about bigger probs, like when people say excessive choking can damage valves and all, is there any truth in this???

And sir, I've got another query.
How does the fuel tank work??? Is fuel stored in 2 different compartments i.e main and reserve or are they stored in a single compartment with a float like thingi which decides which should go down the pipe.

And sir, I've also been wondering. Lets say my ride's full on petrol all the time and I never use reserve then will the petrol in the reserve compartment turn into warnish???

**psr** · 11-21-2011, 05:45 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

people say excessive choking can damage valves and all, is there any truth in this???

And sir, I've got another query.
How does the fuel tank work??? Is fuel stored in 2 different compartments i.e main and reserve or are they stored in a single compartment with a float like thingi which decides which should go down the pipe.

And sir, I've also been wondering. Lets say my ride's full on petrol all the time and I never use reserve then will the petrol in the reserve compartment turn into warnish???

There is no truth in the opinion that using choke will damage valves...worst case scenario is very rich running of engine and carbon formation over time...
There are no separate place in Petrol Tank for reserve..In the tap there will be a long filter to keep out sediments and inside at 3/4 th level there will be a partition and ,petrol above this level will be routed through the main tap position canal, and below the 3/4 level will be routed through the reserve canal inside the tap.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 07:10 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

There is no truth in the opinion that using choke will damage valves...worst case scenario is very rich running of engine and carbon formation over time...
There are no separate place in Petrol Tank for reserve..In the tap there will be a long filter to keep out sediments and inside at 3/4 th level there will be a partition and ,petrol above this level will be routed through the main tap position canal, and below the 3/4 level will be routed through the reserve canal inside the tap.

Thanks alot sir, all my doubts cleared for now.

But just out of curiosity, when I choked my bike to death why didnt it start again and had me wait 5 mins for it to come back to life. I know, I can be irritating, but I'm really restless when am curious

.
My theory is that the bike already burnt all the air inside and thus stopped as planned, but didnt fire up again, cause it was regaining it's breath. I know the idea's stupid

.

**Vishakh** · 11-21-2011, 07:42 PM

Got the bike after 3rd service phew!!. I had to assist them in each and every thing

. Valve clearance not solved properly still sound is there which i think is okay tomorrow going to verify if sound comes during cold starts

.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 07:56 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

Got the bike after 3rd service phew!!. I had to assist them in each and every thing

. Valve clearance not solved properly still sound is there which i think is okay tomorrow going to verify if sound comes during cold starts

.

Only suspect the tappets if its a sewing machine kinda sound and starts as soon as the bike starts cold. If its chil chik sound and increases with heat, its the cylinder pin expanding with heat and kissing the bore, nothing much to worry, its cause of over heating. Just recheck you'r AFR and make sure the bike's not running lean, if it is then correct it. If noth then start thinking about moving higher than 10w30.

**Vishakh** · 11-21-2011, 08:00 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Only suspect the tappets if its a sewing machine kinda sound and starts as soon as the bike starts cold. If its chil chik sound and increases with heat, its the cylinder pin expanding with heat and kissing the bore, nothing much to worry, its cause of over heating. Just recheck you'r AFR and make sure the bike's not running lean, if it is then correct it. If noth then start thinking about moving higher than 10w30.

my bike is running on 20w 40. the same sound happend some 2k before and got rectified when they adjusted the valve. But the sound is more audible only when bike is hot

.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 08:33 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

my bike is running on 20w 40. the same sound happend some 2k before and got rectified when they adjusted the valve. But the sound is more audible only when bike is hot

.

Any loss in performance???? If not ignore it, and move on.

And I know you'r running on 20w40, I indirectly meant going above 20w40, but if I'd posted it, then there'd be another "WAR OF THE OILS"...

**siddhesh** · 11-21-2011, 08:34 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

my bike is running on 20w 40. the same sound happend some 2k before and got rectified when they adjusted the valve. But the sound is more audible only when bike is hot

.

Same here wit my bike bt its running on 10w30 hh oil

**Vishakh** · 11-21-2011, 08:49 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Any loss in performance???? If not ignore it, and move on.

And I know you'r running on 20w40, I indirectly meant going above 20w40, but if I'd posted it, then there'd be another "WAR OF THE OILS"...

No loss in perfomance felt so far have to recheck tomorrow

.

Originally posted by siddhesh View Post

Same here wit my bike bt its running on 10w30 hh oil

Better change to 20w 40 its good for the engine

.

One funny thing happened at the SVC when the guy started my bike and released the clutch the bike jumped off like a raging bull he was about to be thrown off

. He gave me an embarrassed look well he jiggled with the clutch and adjusted it in such a way that it doesn't jump off like that again he said it was loose and blah blah when i asked him.

**acs1207** · 11-21-2011, 09:36 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The hole size is very small and sealing is done by the taper on the screw,jamming into the aluminum taper inside the bowl..If anything maleable is used in between it will definitely get crushed and may impede proper sealing..which is why i suggested something that will go in and settle in even smaller gaps.

The answer came to my mind as soon as I posted the query . Was too lazy to delete it !!

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

And sir, I've also been wondering. Lets say my ride's full on petrol all the time and I never use reserve then will the petrol in the reserve compartment turn into warnish???

You have to look elsewhere for your varnishing requirements !!

Originally posted by psr View Post

There are no separate place in Petrol Tank for reserve..In the tap there will be a long filter to keep out sediments and inside at 3/4 th level there will be a partition and ,petrol above this level will be routed through the main tap position canal, and below the 3/4 level will be routed through the reserve canal inside the tap.

@ aswinprakas - It'd be a good idea for you to take a look yourself . It's not such a big deal since you're into DIY . Also , the dirt accumulated in the tank/filter can be cleaned then . Just dont lose the rubber washer if there is one ( there was one in my RX100) .

Now I remember , I have to do the same -- my mileage varies from 29 to 36 now (earlier it was swinging from 24 to 30 , but now I have new 20w40 oil and Zen mpfi air filter ) for the same style of riding and I'm suspecting that the dirt -if any - might have a hand in that variation .

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

My theory is that the bike already burnt all the air inside and thus stopped as planned, but didnt fire up again, cause it was regaining it's breath. I know the idea's stupid

.

You said it !!

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 10:03 PM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

No loss in perfomance felt so far have to recheck tomorrow

.

Wake up early in the morning and properly warm up you'r bike, then take the bike out....
1st Gear top out at 4k.
2nd Gear top out at 5k.
3rd Gear top out at 7.5k.
4th gear top out at 8k.
5th gear try topping out, if you'r bike automatically shuts down then the bike's fine, if it doesnt then you'r facing performance issues.

Better change to 20w 40 its good for the engine

.

Only after RUN-IN, cause the Gulf 20W40 behaves like FS and pauses you'r run-in.

One funny thing happened at the SVC when the guy started my bike and released the clutch the bike jumped off like a raging bull he was about to be thrown off

. He gave me an embarrassed look well he jiggled with the clutch and adjusted it in such a way that it doesn't jump off like that again he said it was loose and blah blah when i asked him.

He was right the clutch is loose. I use'd to keep the clutch loose in my bike and everytime fazeroid started to ride my bike he used to get pissed cause the bike'd jump like anything, especially since my idle was set at 1.5k hot.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

@ aswinprakas - It'd be a good idea for you to take a look yourself . It's not such a big deal since you're into DIY . Also , the dirt accumulated in the tank/filter can be cleaned then . Just dont lose the rubber washer if there is one ( there was one in my RX100) .

Tried sir, but the thing is that we need some sort of camera contraption to see the inner portion of the tank. since its made like that.

You said it !!

So the question remains, why didnt the bike start afterwards, and had me wait for 5mins. During that time, event the kicker did'nt work.

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