Over sizing and re-boring is normally done when you have some damage on the piston/cylinder and you can't get the full potential from the bike . It normally happens if a piston seizes and the piston / cylinder gets scratches on them . In that case tiny volumes of air/fuel mixture escapes through the gap and you don't get full compression and lose both power and FE . When we put in an over size piston ( difference will be @ .25 - .50 mm ) the cylinder is bored to accommodate the bigger size piston and ( I GUESS ) BIGGER RINGS ARE PUT IN .This in turn increases the volume of the cylinder and you have slightly higher power output . If you want you can negate the higher power and turn it into better FE .
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Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostNot really an expert , but here's my 50 ps worth..Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post
Over sizing and re-boring is normally done when you have some damage on the piston/cylinder and you can't get the full potential from the bike . It normally happens if a piston seizes and the piston / cylinder gets scratches on them . In that case tiny volumes of air/fuel mixture escapes through the gap and you don't get full compression and lose both power and FE . When we put in an over size piston ( difference will be @ .25 - .50 mm ) the cylinder is bored to accommodate the bigger size piston and ( I GUESS ) BIGGER RINGS ARE PUT IN .This in turn increases the volume of the cylinder and you have slightly higher power output . If you want you can negate the higher power and turn it into better FE .
Congrats !!Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Postsigpic
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Originally posted by acs1207 View PostOver sizing and re-boring is normally done when you have some damage on the piston/cylinder and you can't get the full potential from the bike . It normally happens if a piston seizes and the piston / cylinder gets scratches on them . In that case tiny volumes of air/fuel mixture escapes through the gap and you don't get full compression and lose both power and FE . When we put in an over size piston ( difference will be @ .25 - .50 mm ) the cylinder is bored to accommodate the bigger size piston and ( I GUESS ) BIGGER RINGS ARE PUT IN .This in turn increases the volume of the cylinder and you have slightly higher power output . If you want you can negate the higher power and turn it into better FE .Thanks bro,now its almost clear.Now i would like to know how to do it.Congrats !!
Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Sorry t disappoint you broOriginally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostThanks bro,now its almost clear.Now i would like to know how to do it.

It's not a DIY job . You'd at least have to give the cylinder outside for re-boring . I guess the rest you can do . If you're after more power 17/223x230 would give you just .53 hp increase . That's the reason I'm not that interested in it .
Using liquid gasket would give you another (don't remember the exact figure mentioned earlier in this thread - guess it was psr who said it ) .50 hp increase . With both these mods I guess you can crack the 140 kmph mark ( assuming you are now getting 130 kmph ) . Well , now that I am putting the two together ( haven't done so in the past ) it does seem alluring ...
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OK,So where can we get next size pistons? How much will they costs? Is there any particular brand for pistons?How much will re boring cost's?Karizma Parts Manual - https://picasaweb.google.com/1010125...rizmaCatalogue
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Neutral(indicator) Gone off + ZMA doesnt start without clutch in neutral!
Hi! guys
I am facing a problem.
Couple of days back, the neutral indicator gone off and isnt glowing since then.
Bike isnt starting on applying self starter(in neutral), unless clutch is applied.
Checked the two wires(located on the left lever assembly), everthing is good.
Searched in Xbhp threads, but didnt get any result.
Dont know what is the problem. Can any one help me out?
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Originally posted by acs1207 View PostSorry t disappoint you bro
It's not a DIY job . You'd at least have to give the cylinder outside for re-boring . I guess the rest you can do . If you're after more power 17/223x230 would give you just .53 hp increase . That's the reason I'm not that interested in it .
Using liquid gasket would give you another (don't remember the exact figure mentioned earlier in this thread - guess it was psr who said it ) .50 hp increase . With both these mods I guess you can crack the 140 kmph mark ( assuming you are now getting 130 kmph ) . Well , now that I am putting the two together ( haven't done so in the past ) it does seem alluring ...
Removing the gasket from the bottom of bore will give you between 0.8 to 1 hp increase...and increase in FE, while overboring to size above 230cc can be done with Pulsar 220 std piston which can give you slightly less than 240cc,with improved FE.Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View PostOK,So where can we get next size pistons? How much will they costs? Is there any particular brand for pistons?How much will re boring cost's?When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Two possibilities...The neutral stub in left(gear side) crankcase had developed loose contact to connector wire or to inside connection...or the neutral plate inside crankcase is no longer making contact with the connecting stub...While the first is an easy fix by replacement of neutral connecting stub the later of the neutral connecting plate will necessitate splitting of crankcase.Originally posted by Vijay1911 View PostHi! guys
I am facing a problem.
Couple of days back, the neutral indicator gone off and isnt glowing since then.
Bike isnt starting on applying self starter(in neutral), unless clutch is applied.
Checked the two wires(located on the left lever assembly), everthing is good.
Searched in Xbhp threads, but didnt get any result.
Dont know what is the problem. Can any one help me out?
Are you sure the clutch switch is working properly ?When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Late in replying, though hope my info helps.Originally posted by ashwinprakas View PostAll zma users. Please rev your bike till 7k in neutral and observe whether the speedo needle jumps to 20~30 and please post results along with bike's year of make.
Mine.
NO DOESN'T JUMP. 2011 Model.
Speedo remains at 0 even after reving up yo 7.5k. Mine is a March 2009 model.
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Originally posted by psr View PostTwo possibilities...The neutral stub in left(gear side) crankcase had developed loose contact to connector wire or to inside connection...or the neutral plate inside crankcase is no longer making contact with the connecting stub...While the first is an easy fix by replacement of neutral connecting stub the later of the neutral connecting plate will necessitate splitting of crankcase.
Are you sure the clutch switch is working properly ?
Thank you for responding PSR sir!
After just looking it, I think Clutch Switch is properly!
If I am not wrong, clutch switch is the metallic plate locate near the kick or alternator, above the Oil filling hole, which reponds on applying clutch lever.
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Clutch switch
the self start of my bike is not working properly...and have to pull the clutch 3-4 times to make it work.the bike also doesn't start in any gear.i guess the clutch switch is gone.what is the cost of it and svc is not having it.wil i get it replaced under warranty?
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I believe he's talking about the wire like thingi we see on the gear side, when we remove the sprocket cover.Originally posted by Vijay1911 View PostThank you for responding PSR sir!
After just looking it, I think Clutch Switch is properly!
If I am not wrong, clutch switch is the metallic plate locate near the kick or alternator, above the Oil filling hole, which reponds on applying clutch lever.Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Hey fellow mates.
Need help on an electrical issue. Off lately I have noticed that the indicators on my bike take their own sweet time to glow & if the bike is OFF they refuse to blink.
I suspect the blinker going kaput, so can I put any other bikes blinker or I have to put in ZMA's only? The other thing I have noticed is that the indicator on my earlier rides were glowing instantaneously when pressed but on the ZMA its quite slow.
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1.You'll need to check for the Flasher relay.Originally posted by imjoshee View PostHey fellow mates.
Need help on an electrical issue. Off lately I have noticed that the indicators on my bike take their own sweet time to glow & if the bike is OFF they refuse to blink.
I suspect the blinker going kaput, so can I put any other bikes blinker or I have to put in ZMA's only? The other thing I have noticed is that the indicator on my earlier rides were glowing instantaneously when pressed but on the ZMA its quite slow.
2. Other bikes indicators?
3. If the blinker bulbs are not from the same make or not bought together, chances of blinker timing differs when compared to left and right. This is common for any bike.
Experts, please add/delete if any.RX100 1996 | Karizma 2004 | Karizma-R 2011 | RXZ 1999 | RX 135 1998 | RX 100 1993 | CBF150 2005 - 2011
2012 - Meghamalai | Kuttralam | 2011 Ooty | Munnar | 2010 Point Calimere | Horsley Hills | Yercaud
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So would like to learn more about these from experts here.


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