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**BOND_001** · 11-21-2011, 11:12 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

To stop petrol leak you may have to close it permanently.....
1. close petrol tap and open the drain screw fully and take it out...let the petrol float bowl dry for 30 minutes..clean the tip of the drain lock screw and apply THREE BOND to the front of the screw and tighten it. Wait another 30 minutes before opening tap and using the bike..
2. Same steps as the first one, but instead of Three Bond , apply Fevitite Rapid and tighten the screw...Wait for 30 minutes ,then open petrol tap.

before doing the above i suggest u look for sediments in the carb bowl,the leak through the screw may be due to sediments or ill fitted screw.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 11:19 PM

After a lot of searching around I found that the cause of the bike stalling for 5 mins or so after constant choking till death was, cause the carb got flooded by the choke, was'nt able to find more technical info on the above, I guess its better to leave that to psr sir.

Now while researching I also found a funny video.
Always warm up your bike!! - YouTube

**ashwinprakas** · 11-21-2011, 11:32 PM

**UPDATE**
(Created a new post instead of editing, cause the info may be useful for newbies like myself.)

Once in a while you might excess'ly choke you'r ride to a point that it dies and later on just cranks and wont start up. But dont worry, and dont loose hope too, cause the remedy to this would be to turn off the choke and start the bike KEEPING THE THROTTLE AT WOT. This will create a vacume condition in the carb and the flood will be taken care of.

Dan's Motorcycle

**acs1207** · 11-22-2011, 12:21 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Tried sir, but the thing is that we need some sort of camera contraption to see the inner portion of the tank. since its made like that.

No...I meant get the correct size spanner and remove the fuel tap and take a look/ clean it!! It shouldn't be rocket science - I'm gonna remove mine the next chance I get !

Originally posted by BOND_001 View Post

before doing the above i suggest u look for sediments in the carb bowl,the leak through the screw may be due to sediments or ill fitted screw.

+1

BTW would winding teflon help or is it corrosive to petrol ?

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

After a lot of searching around I found that the cause of the bike stalling for 5 mins or so after constant choking till death was, cause the carb got flooded by the choke,

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Once in a while you might excess'ly choke you'r ride to a point that it dies and later on just cranks and wont start up. But dont worry, and dont loose hope too, cause the remedy to this would be to turn off the choke and start the bike KEEPING THE THROTTLE AT WOT. This will create a vacume condition in the carb and the flood will be taken care of.

Close the fuel tap and the choke and kick the kicker a few times with the key in 'off' position - that way excess fuel in the cylinder goes out . Then switch on the key and the tap and the chock and try starting . I think it'll get started . ( Had to do it a zillion times for my friend's Roadking !!
BTW , in winter the air is generally colder . . . and the air denser . Will there be an increase of power in winter due to the dense air ? If so can't we make the afr leaner to compensate for it ?

**ashwinprakas** · 11-22-2011, 12:39 AM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

No...I meant get the correct size spanner and remove the fuel tap and take a look/ clean it!! It shouldn't be rocket science - I'm gonna remove mine the next chance I get !

Oh, If it was just about removing the fuel tap, then I'll do it anytime I run out of petrol, but frankly my curiousity lies in whats inside the tank.

Close the fuel tap and the choke and kick the kicker a few times with the key in 'off' position - that way excess fuel in the cylinder goes out . Then switch on the key and the tap and the chock and try starting . I think it'll get started . ( Had to do it a zillion times for my friend's Roadking !!

In ZMA there's no need to take such effort, just wait for 5mins and the bike'd start, but I guess starting with the throttle at wot's a way easier idea, and time saving too. Cool my uncle had a JAWA too.

BTW , in winter the air is generally colder . . . and the air denser . Will there be an increase of power in winter due to the dense air ? If so can't we make the afr leaner to compensate for it ?

Sir, we are talking about 4Strokes here. Leaning out the AFR when cold will only cause more issues.

Replies in BOLD.

**vivekarizma** · 11-22-2011, 07:19 AM

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

my bike is running on 20w 40. the same sound happend some 2k before and got rectified when they adjusted the valve. But the sound is more audible only when bike is hot

.

agree with you bro!even in mine the audibility of the sound increases as the bike's builds up heat!me got my bike after the third service last week and the mechanics promised that all the issues were solved..but the saddest thing is that none were rectified. Today going to bash them.and my next plan it to shoot a mail to hero moto corp regarding these hopeless mechanics!!!

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-22-2011, 08:47 AM

Originally posted by BOND_001 View Post

before doing the above i suggest u look for sediments in the carb bowl,the leak through the screw may be due to sediments or ill fitted screw.

How sediments cause petrol leak?I am sure that there will be sediments,i hadn't cleaned the carburetor till now.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

but frankly my curiousity lies in whats inside the tank.

Shall we open up my old tank?

**acs1207** · 11-22-2011, 09:47 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Oh, If it was just about removing the fuel tap, then I'll do it anytime I run out of petrol, but frankly my curiousity lies in whats inside the tank.Well , the fuel filter is connected (is an extension of ) to the fuel tap and it comes out with the tap when you remove it . Then there'll be the fuel level sensor
In ZMA there's no need to take such effort, just wait for 5mins and the bike'd start, but I guess starting with the throttle at wot's a way easier idea, and time saving too. Cool my uncle had a JAWA too.
Haven't had any problem of my Zmar not starting . So cant comment on that . Excess fuel in cylinder may lead to more carbon deposit on spark plug which you may have to clean more often . BTW did you know that Yezdi had a 350 cc twin cylinder bike ?

Sir, we are talking about 4Strokes here. Leaning out the AFR when cold will only cause more issues.

Replies in bold
Occasionally I get mixed up 'tween 2stroke and 4stroke techs .

**ashwinprakas** · 11-22-2011, 11:29 AM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Shall we open up my old tank?

Nope lets keep it, who knows maybe we'll pawn off a bike from any junk yard around and buld ourself a tourer.

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Replies in bold
Occasionally I get mixed up 'tween 2stroke and 4stroke techs .

Yup, and also dont forget about the auto clutch.

**psr** · 11-22-2011, 03:20 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

After a lot of searching around I found that the cause of the bike stalling for 5 mins or so after constant choking till death was, cause the carb got flooded by the choke, was'nt able to find more technical info on the above, I guess its better to leave that to psr sir.

If i don't reply ,ONLY THEN you search for the answer

good you found the answer..The AFR becomes too rich and so the bike cannot start...

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

+1

BTW would winding teflon help or is it corrosive to petrol ?

Teflon does not react with petrol or hydro carbons.

**psr** · 11-22-2011, 03:25 PM

here is a simple D I Y for brake pad change..in picture.I had not used the " C " Clamp because my Nissin pads are in good condition and need no change..
If you have old worn pads then after taking out old pads, and CLEANING the piston surroundings ,the " C " Clamp must be used to push the piston back to fit new pads which will be thicker...

Error 404 (Not Found)!!1

https://picasaweb.google.com/108499467780796711742/DISCPADCHANGE?authkey=Gv1sRgCPfZlvSO8rKMGw

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-22-2011, 03:41 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

How sediments cause petrol leak?I am sure that there will be sediments,i hadn't cleaned the carburetor till now.

PSR Sir ,what about this?

**psr** · 11-22-2011, 03:48 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

PSR Sir ,what about this?

you had already posted the correct answer..sediments willblock and cannot cause leaks.

**Manoj76** · 11-22-2011, 04:33 PM

@PSR:

Alternatively, the force of the thumb is sufficient enough to push the pistons back. just open the master cylinder and carefully press the piston. i've tried it many times and it works every time

**SriramEfunds** · 11-22-2011, 04:42 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

here is a simple D I Y for brake pad change..in picture.I had not used the " C " Clamp because my Nissin pads are in good condition and need no change..
If you have old worn pads then after taking out old pads, and CLEANING the piston surroundings ,the " C " Clamp must be used to push the piston back to fit new pads which will be thicker...
https://picasaweb.google.com/1084994...CPfZlvSO8rKMGw

Why don't you create a thread under DIY section? Infact, this could be of help where other bikes share similar properties of ZMA if not all. Just my thoughts.

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