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**asif** · 11-19-2011, 10:13 AM

Originally posted by James View Post

Sorry to bring this up again but would anyone have details on this? The HH guys dont quite like giving out details as they know i do the work myself. They loose out on labour charges that way!

Not really sure on this, untill unless its tried.
But there is a different option and i guess a much more cheaper one.Am sure you must of heard of "height bolt" on the RX's. These are spacers used to increase the fork travel by about half and inch or one. May be it could be used on the ZMA as well.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-19-2011, 10:40 AM

Got my bike yesterday.Here are the expenses:

Parts:26420
Labour:1313

Total:27733RS.

@ All

Updated Price list with new prices and parts.Have a look.

**psr** · 11-19-2011, 11:35 AM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Yes,I guessed it wrong,I thought he was talking about the clutch adjusting bolt.

The oil seal is the culprit.
Get it right? Sir can you explain it more clearly.

Take the A and B cable out of the throttle drum.....totally loosen the idle adjuster and ensure that the throttle valve is fully closed...now adjust the idle adjuster till it touches the throttle cable drum and turn it 1/4 th.Now start and adjust idle ..and set hot engine idle to 1,400 RPM.
After this connect both A and B cables and ensure there is slack in the throttle by 2 to 3 mm.

**ashwinprakas** · 11-19-2011, 03:52 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

@Experts.

Its going to sound stupid, but please tell me how to properly warm up the bike.

Im serious, please direct me on how to properly warm up the ride. Reason for asking this is.

1. Sometimes without choke bike starts after 2-3 tries, everything goes well but when we ride bike misses a lot of beats and stall's a few times.

2. Start the bike with 1/2 choke and throttle -or- Start the bike with choke on for 10 sec's and ride the bike bike responds like above but only stalls once, then everythings ok.

3. I start the bike with choke on and keeps it on and lets it idle, my idle rpm when hot is 1.5k, but with choke on the rpm goes to between 2.5~3K but still wont let go of the choke, will keep it on till the RPM loweres down to 1.5~2K or in some cases the engine stall's. After that I on the bike without choke and start riding, and the ride's real smooth, no hickups no nothing...

So which of the above's right???? And is there any other methode out there suitable for the ZMA.

**siddhesh** · 11-19-2011, 04:28 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Im serious, please direct me on how to properly warm up the ride. Reason for asking this is.

1. Sometimes without choke bike starts after 2-3 tries, everything goes well but when we ride bike misses a lot of beats and stall's a few times.

2. Start the bike with 1/2 choke and throttle -or- Start the bike with choke on for 10 sec's and ride the bike bike responds like above but only stalls once, then everythings ok.

3. I start the bike with choke on and keeps it on and lets it idle, my idle rpm when hot is 1.5k, but with choke on the rpm goes to between 2.5~3K but still wont let go of the choke, will keep it on till the RPM loweres down to 1.5~2K or in some cases the engine stall's. After that I on the bike without choke and start riding, and the ride's real smooth, no hickups no nothing...

So which of the above's right???? And is there any other methode out there suitable for the ZMA.

I Guess this all is bcoz of the winter season coming up and i think u should switch to 10w30 from 20w40...which would result in less cold start as u hav mentioned ...

**ashwinprakas** · 11-19-2011, 06:57 PM

Originally posted by siddhesh View Post

I Guess this all is bcoz of the winter season coming up and i think u should switch to 10w30 from 20w40...which would result in less cold start as u hav mentioned ...

Now running on 10w30 stock HH oil.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-19-2011, 07:19 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Take the A and B cable out of the throttle drum.....totally loosen the idle adjuster and ensure that the throttle valve is fully closed...now adjust the idle adjuster till it touches the throttle cable drum and turn it 1/4 th.Now start and adjust idle ..and set hot engine idle to 1,400 RPM.
After this connect both A and B cables and ensure there is slack in the throttle by 2 to 3 mm.

Tried all,Initially the problem was solved,but it arised again after some time,Checked everything i know,Finally taken it to my good svc guy( The one who overhauled my engine) he ridden my bike and said the choke cable is stuck in the carburetor and needs a carburetor cleaning.Me too guess so,Yesterday when i tried to on the choke it was stuck,then i had pulled it harder to get it moved.So fixed Tuesday for the carburetor cleaning.What do you think psr sir?The bike was kept 2months without any movement,will it be the cause of this?

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-19-2011, 07:30 PM

Originally posted by ghostride

@aneez : for you i will add pics later

Oh.Thanks bro.

Welcome to this thread.

Let us know more about you and your bike.

Do you have this setup in your bike?

**psr** · 11-19-2011, 09:12 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Tried all,Initially the problem was solved,but it arised again after some time,Checked everything i know,Finally taken it to my good svc guy( The one who overhauled my engine) he ridden my bike and said the choke cable is stuck in the carburetor and needs a carburetor cleaning.Me too guess so,Yesterday when i tried to on the choke it was stuck,then i had pulled it harder to get it moved.So fixed Tuesday for the carburetor cleaning.What do you think psr sir?The bike was kept 2months without any movement,will it be the cause of this?

The cable getting stuck is due to lack of lubrication, and water getting into the inner cable...
I had posted the Accelerator cable adjustment to set right the anomaly of the idle adjuster not touching the accelerator return rest.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-19-2011, 09:16 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

The cable getting stuck is due to lack of lubrication, and water getting into the inner cable...
I had posted the Accelerator cable adjustment to set right the anomaly of the idle adjuster not touching the accelerator return rest.

OK sir,changed oil today.Some clicks,anyone guess how old this oil?

Poured Gulf Pride 4T Plus 20W40.

The Filter,Spring and the Drain bolt in detail.

**selvin rebz** · 11-19-2011, 09:53 PM

@psr sir and all

can we change the pilot lamps without removing the fairng???
i tried but there are lot of cables coming in my way

**ashwinprakas** · 11-19-2011, 10:10 PM

Originally posted by selvin rebz View Post

@psr sir and all

can we change the pilot lamps without removing the fairng???
i tried but there are lot of cables coming in my way

Yup, but requires experience. Else it can be made a helluva lot easier by doing it the Pulsar way by removing the tank and then acessing it, cause then you'll not have to go through the tedious procedure of getting the fairing off and on.

**shhbz** · 11-20-2011, 03:13 PM

@all
any guys from delhi have any idea where to get 18 smd led or more and philips extreme and how much will it cost to fit for karizma r itself.
I need delhi local shop market as my friend needs it there and he needs an idea.

**Vishakh** · 11-20-2011, 06:55 PM

Hello all

me back after a little break, I had exams

. Tomorrow going to take my ZMA for 3rd service. There is tappet noise at a medium level. That's the only issue to be rectified. What are the other things to be ensured?

. And one doubt: Does acceleration cable need slack adjustment? My bike odo is 4K. And does acceleration cable get elongated due to tension in such a short span?

Bike is totally dirty

. Its underbody is covered with mud and slush

. Its rain time here in Trivandrum. I always feel bad when i see my ride like this.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 11-20-2011, 06:56 PM

Now having problems related to carburetor.

PSR Sir help!

Found petrol leaking from the marked part.Loosened and tightened the screw again.The tube is damaged due to age.

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