RPM on idle stays between 9.5 and 10. Hope this is what you were looking for.

Yup, youre bikes perfect. To be exact 9650RPM.

Twist of the throttle the bike shuts down might be cause of CDI connectivity issue. Battery weakness should not arise for the 2011 ZMA now. May be give some run for it to charge. Ideally the 55w should go in with existing 6ah battery(assuming you have a 2011).

Is'nt it about time to notice that his bike only shows this issue during the morning hours.

Has anyone ever seen the process of decarbonizing the engine. I mean how exactly is it done.
My service center suggested I decarbonize the engine as it has clocked around 22K kms. I haven't noticed any in difference in the performance of the bike and feel its not necessary so soon.

If you feel its OK, then dont bother, I've seen local decarbonization process once while visiting HH Clinic. They just scrape of the carbon deposits, from the valves.

I noticed that the mech could take out/put in the bulb without removing the fairing though for making the adjustments he did unscrew the fairing and pulled it ahead a little bit to make room.

That'll put un-necessary load on the pin like thingi's that hold the fairing in place.

the mech who fitted the bulb said that he could fit HID for 900/- to 1200/- bucks (including fitting charges of 150). Can this be possible ? I thought they cost 5000 plus.

Ignore the cost factor and go for the brand factor.

i am a sedete rider, not ripping the bike that much.

Maybe thats the problem.

But in heavy traffic, not rip the bike, and with a pillion who hate this bike simply because of the rear foot peg vibrations..

To hell with the pillion's opinion. My pillion would never dare to even think about complaining, cause he know's better. Disrespect my bike and the next thing he'll be doing is hitchhiking.

Sorry I asked this question from you earlier but still I am not in a situation to understand the logic behind your above statement! How 10W30 reduce vibrations which 10W40 fully synthetic could not?

Its not about which oil reduces vibes, its about properly and evenly wearing down the internal components of your bike. And no other oil other than the stock 10W30 does the job better. My bike was also rude to me, but after re-running the new cylinder kit using stock 10W30 for about 1000Kms, the bike became smoother than its ever been.

Here's PSR Sir's explanation for the same.

Originally posted by psr View Post

This thread had gone on for a lot of time without me...It is no longer in the learning stage but at an advanced level now..I see many members from here posting in other forums with authority..Makes me feel proud to be part of it...since members here are able to solve each other's query ,..I do not wish to interfere..
Regarding engine feeling better after a long hard ride..it happens only with vehicles maintained properly ,and with correct liquids in them...for every success story there are five vehicles returning home on tow..
1. When sustained high speed run is done, ...in carb., or injector the fuel flow path gets cleaned due to continuous flow.....it also makes the carb slide or injector to lift properly with ease.
2. Sustained speeds burns away the carbon deposit on the piston and chamber,and also in the Exhaust system...
3. Moving parts like gears,valves,rocker,,get coated with a minimal amount of combustion or dirt deposits which reduces clearance between moving parts, and also GUMS UP ,in-spite of lubrication..When ever an engine is split all this can be visually seen.
A high speed run ,because of temperature and sustained faster movement ,sheds this and become free to rotate or move with ease.
4. Any imperfection in clutch plate meshing,or bore and piston is methodically worn to mate better..but if you have worn clutch or bore piston and bad oil, this will have an opposite effect of clutch slip and engine seizure.
These are some of the reasons I know of...

Cam shaft and rocker arms had some indications of wear very marginaly by the way, no major difference with the new ones, but I replaced them anyway..

Warranty.???

Oops sorry been out for work..

Yeah, my odo reading is 12500km and i am a sedete rider, not ripping the bike that much. But I do tour a lot, almost every weekend, for about 1000kms a day, sometimes for about 400kms non-stop. I bought this ZMR just for touring! Day-to-day use does not exceed 15kms, but in heavy traffic, not rip the bike, and with a pillion who hate this bike simply because of the rear foot peg vibrations..
Long distance riding involves high speeds over 85kmph for about 50% and the rest with the ordinary traffic.
Proprely ran-in the bike, did not exceed 60kmph during the first 1k kms, no sudden acceleratins, even did not cross 80kmph for further 2k kms too...

I hope you get the idea



Sorry I asked this question from you earlier but still I am not in a situation to understand the logic behind your above statement! How 10W30 reduce vibrations which 10W40 fully synthetic could not?

And regarding your riding tip, yeah I do it every day, I do warm up the engine, never used throttle when I start the engine, and let it run for about 3-5 mins, and ride it for about 5 mins slowly and then only open up the throttle that too in a juridiciously.. So I am following your tips, all tha way



1. No movement, no wear for Chain & sprockets..
2. Chain slackness is correct.. Proper adjustments are always ON.
3. Chain is lubed and maintain it lubed all the time..

Yeah, chain maintainance is been done regularly, thinking that these vibrations are due to chain and sprockets, but now quite sure that they are not the culprits, bit engine is, well then, which engine part??



Went to the srvice today, replaced the Cam shaft and rocker arms, fully cleaned the chain and sprckets, changed oil, same 10W40 FS, and still no improvement, engine noise changed a little but don't like the way it sound.. I am giving the new parts a runing-in for 3-400kms befor get into any conclusion.. And rode for about 20kms and overheating and the vibrations are still bothering me..

Cam shaft and rocker arms had some indications of wear very marginaly by the way, no major difference with the new ones, but I replaced them anyway..

PSR Sir, here I am with a bunch of questions:
1. What is the best lubricant for the chain of our Karizma?
2. What do I have to tell the shopkeeper in order to ask for the same?
3. Do we need to clean the chain before lubricating? If yes, what should be used?
4. What should be the interval (days or kms) for lubrication?
5. In long rides, chain gets slacked at a much faster rate, how to avoid it? Should we lubricate it during long rides at frequent intervals?
6. I'm bugging you again for this, I find the glow rate of the indicators very poor, the time duration of glowing is very less as compared to the time duration it is not glowing. What should be done as a permanent fix? (say, to make atleast about a second glow duration).

Guys,

Which is the best engine oil for Karizma (synthetic or semi synthetic)?

Currently using Mobil 1 fully synthetic.

I don't have any proper justification for this answer. But I think you should rip your bike once in a while. The vibrations will be reduced. It happened for me anyways . When I bought the bike it was really vibrating and irritating my legs a lot. Even as you said my pillion also complained like " Dude your ride vibes like hell ".

Set out early morning. Warm up your ride, find a neat stretch of high way, stop the bike put in first gear lean on tank take the bike to 7.5 k rpm in every gear. In short just do a drag . And shift to mineral oil before doing this so you get faster and more pronounced results .
.

You were able to get FS Mobil 1 for motorcycle? Asking as I have come across them only meant for cars..

There can be no conclusion to "The Best" oil due to the fact that people using the same bike make with the same type of oil will tell a different story based on their experience.
.

Yes, you are correct bro, and already knowing that, I do rippings too, to be exact, on every weekend I go for tours, long ones, I usualy start the tour by ripping, change gears above 7.5k RPM, even redline the bike(cannot do in the 5th cog due to taller ratio though)..

So I am already following your method too for no success

shubham...

i haven't changed the relays...with the 55/60w bulb zma has done 3000kms...no burn marks... i did a 200km ride in night in a 40% single lane and 60% highways...even while riding in night time, the light was so bright, i pushed the bike to 110...i have done redlined gear shifts with headlight on...thrice i have started the bike with headlights switched on...

the brightness is touch better in cbz xtreme than zma...i haven't changed the battery on my cbz for 3 years...it has dual root horns,,,i had all flashy lights and now a 55/60w..battery is still going on and on...

with the 55/60w bulb on the zma beam spread is atleast 50% better than stock ones...

shubham...i got my zma as used one with 3000kms on odo...intially the gear shifts were hard in 1st, 2nd, 3rd.....i took it too nearly three service centres..they used to say the problems has been addressed...it appears again on the next day....recently i took my zma to a remote village..the bikini fairing has started to vibrate like anything...

i gave the bike to road size mechanic to fix the vibes..as i'm not confident about svc....i told him about hard gear shifts too...he said leave the bike and come back after 3 hours...when i went to pick the bike, too my suprise the vibes are literally zero and the gear shifts are very smooth..i feel that i can shifts gears bare footed..when i asked him what he did....he just smiled....

i don't know about rpm issue...but i personally feel the bike responds well above 4000 rpm for first and second gears....

I have noticed that the power band for my bike seems to be between 4000-5000. When i open the throttle i get that kick when tacho crosses the 4K mark. Is it true for other samples too ?

On another note, gear shift was very hard today esp between 1 and 2, could not get N at all today. Is some trouble brewing internally ?
@PSR sir: Is this a case for 20w40 mineral ? I had a 10w30 added last week but won't mind changing it to 20w40.

All ZMAs in good tune have this rush after 4 k RPM,and you will hear the engine growl hard after this RPM..My guess is that the Ignition mapping is set to peak from this RPM.....I am running with NGK "G" Power plug and I had experienced this growl and quickness more now..and so far FE had also increased.
If you find hrd gear shifts adjust the clutch lever play to 2~4 mm and it will go.I had clarified about this ,with image in an earlier post..
I am presently trying the OE HONDA 20W40 and find it to be good..

i gave the bike to road size mechanic to fix the vibes..as i'm not confident about svc....i told him about hard gear shifts too...he said leave the bike and come back after 3 hours...when i went to pick the bike, too my suprise the vibes are literally zero and the gear shifts are very smooth..i feel that i can shifts gears bare footed..when i asked him what he did....he just smiled....