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**Jerrin** · 01-25-2012, 05:56 PM

[QUOTE=AshMj;763283]is there nobody to answer this?

my oil drain bolt also broke once while changing oil. may be,because of low quality. i also put the CBZ's bolt.

**SunnyBoi** · 01-25-2012, 06:08 PM

Originally posted by AshMj View Post

3-bike electricals were running very well till 302kms but after that whenever i hit the starter button i observed a blink in tachometer and all reading were setting to zero and clock timing was 1:00am

why this is happening??

looks like the starter relay is bust. whenever you're trying to start, the relay is grounding and pulling huge current from the battery.

Hope the fuse has blown and saved some electricals. Check all the fuses on your bike ASAP along with the relay.

If you have relays and direct wiring from battery for headlight and horn, suggest you get 10A fuses for both. Get a kinetic honda fusebox and use it.

**psr** · 01-25-2012, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by AshMj View Post

hey xbhpians, i am posting here after a month ,was busy with the stuffs

,yesterday i did 550km with gulf pride 4t 20w40 on NH4 here is the experience and some queries
1-bike runs very cool and smooth(less pick up and notchy gear shhifts) with gulf engine oil but after i go beyond 80mph it makes "kad kad " kinda noise ..
Check your Sprocket and chain condition and lubrication..
2-when i went to change the engine oil before leaving to the ride,while opening the oil drain bolt it broke into spanner..wondering is it of that cheap qulaity HH?its very imp part of engine, good it broke in standstill condition....i fixed cbz's bolt as zma's bolt was unavailable..is it ok??
Yes absolutely ok...the nut is made of thin aluminum, and if proper tools are not used it will shear the head....over tightening of the nut due to fear of oil leak also leads to jammed nut..In such cases the box spanner is placed on the nut head and tapped with a hammer before attempting to open the nut.
3-bike electricals were running very well till 302kms but after that whenever i hit the starter button i observed a blink in tachometer and all reading were setting to zero and clock timing was 1:00am

why this is happening??
Either the battery contacts are loose or corroded, or else the battery is kaput

bike has done 17644kms...pulsar dual horn with bosch relay...mico 55/60bulb with bosch relay...stock battery...evrything is stock

any suggestions guys on above queries ???and the part which i need to replace at this age of my black storm?? thanks in advance

replies in bold.

**psr** · 01-25-2012, 06:35 PM

Originally posted by Jerrin View Post

Back to this thread after a long time.
Vishakh and me is in trivandrum team. During one of our g2g, i started his bike. I was little surprised,his engine was running smoother like a unicorn with minimum vibrations. And when i started my bike, i noticed the difference. my engine was running rough with the vibrations shaking the handle bars. He told me it is because of my slow riding style and will become ok. I usually ride within the 4k rpm.
1.Is this a problem?
2.Or is it because the engine hasnt completed its Setting-in?
mine is a 2011 Karizma and have clocked 9375km.
The above said silly things doesnt mean i am unhappy with my bike. I am really happy and proud to own this capable Classic Touring Machine.

At 9375 Kms on odo your bike had finished it's run in & setting in long ago.
If you are running with stock 10w30 Engine Oil try changing to JASO MA2 spec 20w40 oil..
Every 500 Kms check and lube the chain and sprocket.

**ankss** · 01-25-2012, 07:14 PM

finally my 5th service is completed ... on cost of approx 900 Rs.

which includes Oil change , a supplement named ( bardahl added ) [ oil suppliemet and special injector klene, whats the use of it ???? ],
chain cover coating, chain greasing and blade fuse ...

i have a question ...

should i change my headlight to 55/60 W ( white ) which includes the two small lights also ... does it affect my battery ...

this q cmes in my mind coz when i was in SVC a guy with karizma R 2011 he has same setup which i want n was complaining abt the battery , when i talk to him he said , this battery prb comes after installing headlight change setup ...

so if i want install with 55/60 w bulb should i change my battery ... from 7 Ah to higher one ... can i do that ???

**Vishakh** · 01-25-2012, 07:32 PM

Originally posted by ankss View Post

finally my 5th service is completed ... on cost of approx 900 Rs.

which includes Oil change , a supplement named ( bardahl added ) [ oil suppliemet and special injector klene, whats the use of it ???? ],
chain cover coating, chain greasing and blade fuse ...

i have a question ...

should i change my headlight to 55/60 W ( white ) which includes the two small lights also ... does it affect my battery ...

this q cmes in my mind coz when i was in SVC a guy with karizma R 2011 he has same setup which i want n was complaining abt the battery , when i talk to him he said , this battery prb comes after installing headlight change setup ...

so if i want install with 55/60 w bulb should i change my battery ... from 7 Ah to higher one ... can i do that ???

No problem with my battery so far I have 55/60 bulb on my stock 2011 karizma.

At 9375 Kms on odo your bike had finished it's run in & setting in long ago.
If you are running with stock 10w30 Engine Oil try changing to JASO MA2 spec 20w40 oil..
Every 500 Kms check and lube the chain and sprocket.

I have told him the same regarding change in oil grade. His bike is very well maintained I was stunned

.

**ashwinprakas** · 01-25-2012, 09:41 PM

Finally got suitable replacement horns for my ride.
Addon Tractor Horn.

Replaced all the engine Hangar Bolts with longer TVS Branded one's with size 13 and 2 spacers on each side for more sturdiness.

Will be reversing the UCLAMP tomorrow, and will also flatten the center portion of the crash guard to increase clearance and prevent the fender from touching the u clamp.

Tip for those using 10W30 oil. The bike may seem harsh due to uneven wear of internal components. So to make up for that try riding hard and shift at higher RPM's till you reach a point of satisfaction.

EDIT>

Hi Jerin bro, the last time you visited Kollam I've noticed that you're bike's making the Chil Chil sound which my bike use'd to make before the cylinder kit was replaced. If you notice increased lose in performance along with increased engine noise then suspect misaligned cylinder kit.

**Jerrin** · 01-25-2012, 09:46 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

At 9375 Kms on odo your bike had finished it's run in & setting in long ago.
If you are running with stock 10w30 Engine Oil try changing to JASO MA2 spec 20w40 oil..
Every 500 Kms check and lube the chain and sprocket.

I have changed to semi-synthetic valvoline 20w50 since 5000km. My mechanic told karizma and cbz's engine gets heated up to a high degree,so its fine to use a higher grade oil 20-50. Is there any other particular reason for the engine being rough?

**Jerrin** · 01-25-2012, 09:52 PM

Hi Jerin bro, the last time you visited Kollam I've noticed that you're bike's making the Chil Chil sound which my bike use'd to make before the cylinder kit was replaced. If you notice increased lose in performance along with increased engine noise then suspect misaligned cylinder kit.[/QUOTE]

What do you mean by misaligned cyclinder kit? how will it happen?

**ashwinprakas** · 01-25-2012, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by Jerrin View Post

I have changed to semi-synthetic valvoline 20w50 since 5000km. My mechanic told karizma and cbz's engine gets heated up to a high degree,so its fine to use a higher grade oil 20-50. Is there any other particular reason for the engine being rough?

Dont you think its high time you changed your oil?

Originally posted by Jerrin View Post

What do you mean by misaligned cyclinder kit? how will it happen?

As reported by the SVC a number of ZMA's from the 2010~2011 batch have been reported with engine noise and overheating just after cruising for short distances ranging from 10~15Kms. And the issue went away as soon as the cylinder kit was replaced. They blame misaligned gudgeon pin's as a cause which is backed up by consistent scarring of the cylinder walls.

**Vishakh** · 01-25-2012, 10:26 PM

Jerrin handles his bike way too smooth and I strongly believe that is the reason for vibrations and lesser refinement. It will go away with time. When I rode his bike I just got the same feeling the day I took my bike for the first time for a ride

.

**psr** · 01-26-2012, 12:01 AM

Originally posted by Jerrin View Post

I have changed to semi-synthetic valvoline 20w50 since 5000km. My mechanic told karizma and cbz's engine gets heated up to a high degree,so its fine to use a higher grade oil 20-50. Is there any other particular reason for the engine being rough?

20w50 is too thick an oil for ZMA.20w40 is the ideal grade to get engine smoothness and cooler engine.

**SunnyBoi** · 01-26-2012, 11:37 AM

FInally some progress on improving the brakes!

My bike has new nissin brake pads, howevwe braking was so-so. Plus the brakes felt very wooden and gave zero feedback.

First I flushed the system with fresh fluid, changed the brake switch, lever and it became better. A month later, brakes were feeling woody again.

So I had an old Master Cylinder from a Pulsar (KBX) which I had salvaged from my RX. Decided to give it a try sicne I wont be losing anything anyway. Swapped the master cylinder, put in somewhat new fluid (same month old fluid left over). Old fluid had turned murky, indicating some sludge is present in the system.

Brakes feel lot better, miles better modulation and better braking control on sandy surfaces

In short, Brake issues are solved!

One change I would like to do is put in an Avenger brake lever. Its longer and hence provides better modulation

A pic of the mas cyl. Excuse the quality of pics

**ashwinprakas** · 01-26-2012, 10:19 PM

Since I've been having clearance issue's for a long time, I finally decided to settle it once and for all.

Hammered the 'U' clamp region flat.

There was alot of damages so to cover that up, bought myself an aerosol 400Ml can for Rs.225/- and this's what I managed to do, actually just now only finished and since it was night, hung it on my walking thingi.

And finally the last piece of the puzzle to completely solve the issue, and something I've been searching for a while.

The custom made U Clamps costed Rs.20/- but was sure worth their cost. Tomorrow will post a final pic after permanently fixing the crashguard.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 01-26-2012, 10:57 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

bought myself an aerosol 400Ml can for Rs.225/-

225?

I bought it for 120rs.

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